ugoleftillgorite

 

This is the one I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074V2S5LQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

You can go the the shippers website and see it there as well. http://avlis-co.com/rear-view-backup-camera-bt4z-19g490-b-replacement-for-2012-edge-limited-sport-utility-4-door/

 

The part is marked with part number GJ5T-19G490-AD but it says it is interchangeable with BT4T-19G490-AF, BT4Z-19G490-B, BT4Z-19G490-A

 

 

Codyb do you have a link to the one you bought on ebay?

 

ugoleftillgorite what is the link for the one you bought on amazon?

 

I haven't tried the forscan so I am thinking about that might get it to work? However, everything I have read said it worked without the forscan (minus the parking lines, etc)

 

Sorry for the late reply, the product page that I bought mine from now shows the part number you received.

I have read several of these forum topics discussing the removal of the camera. One that I saw and will support wholeheartedly is using a dremel to cut a groove into the screw that holds the camera bracket. It is MUCH easier than trying to remove the swaged in screw threads and gently prying the tabs loose on the painted panel. That process is ripe for failure and potentially causing further issues/damage. I simply cut the groove into the bottom of the screw, backed it out, and replaced it with a small bolt, lock washer and nut. It took far less time to do this than trying to get the two plastic pieces apart. Now if I could get the camera image to not be upside down, I would have it made!

To each their own. Feel free to link the other post here so that people that see this one see the route you took.

This is a great write up. Helped me swap out the camera on my 2011 Edge today. The rear camera display is back and looking good but my issue now is the image is upside down plus no guide lines. The camera can only be installed one way as far as I can tell. I notice in your pics that you have a different part number than what I got. Where did you purchase your camera from? Thanks.

Thanks! I got mine from Amazon as well. I just went back to the product page and it now shows the part number that you got. It may be just different enough that it does require a dealer "configuration," but that's just speculation on my end. What was your original PN?

I bought a replacement camera on Amazon and installed it but I am still getting the "Contact Dealership" message. I called the parts guy at Ford and he said you had to have it recalibrated at a dealer once you install it and it wasn't a plug and play. From what I have read the recalibration is just for the parking aid lines and it should work without any recalibrations or updates. For those who replaced their cameras did you just plug the new one in and it worked? I am trying to figure out if the camera I bought is bad or if I need to have it recalibrated.

 

Also where did you buy your camera from and how much was it?

 

Thanks!

Mine was 99% plug and play. I did not have backup lines previously and they didn't show up with the new camera, but it doesn't bother me enough to have the dealer try to fix it. I would try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to force a full reboot on the system before taking it to the dealership. If you are especially cheap (like me! haha), maybe try a software update as well. Hopefully one of those things will help it see the camera!

Are you planning on going to the dealer to reprogram the camera to get your guide lines back? If so let us know how much it cost.

 

Thanks.

I bought it used and it didn't have the lines to begin with. I need to get the master code for my keypad door locks anyways (which requires a dealer visit/computer plug in), so I will see what they think when I bring it in for that. Any details you can give me on the reprogram process would be appreciated as the service manager seemed baffled by my backup camera woes.

Great writeup, thanks for adding this to our knowledge on the forum! By the way, I take it "straight ahead" is not an option here?

Thanks, in retrospect I wish I had taken better pictures but I think most people can figure it out from this. Not sure what you mean by "straight ahead," sorry if I didn't get the joke or something.

The camera on our 2011 Edge SEL had been frequently flipping upside down or going black and displaying "Contact Dealership," which according to TSB11-06-04 warrants a replacement of the backup camera. The dealership told me that they always replace the trim piece that the camera is mounted to since it is nearly impossible to not break the tabs, resulting in a $700+ bill. I could not find a guide online for the replacement of this camera, so I decided to take a couple of pictures and document what I did to replace it for my first post on this forum. It isn't exactly straightforward, but if you are careful you can do it yourself with just a few hand tools.

Tools needed:

7/16" open end wrench

7/16" socket

#2 Phillips screwdriver

T20 Torx screwdriver

Thin common screwdriver for prying

Needle nose pliers for pinching plastic rivets

Overview:

To get to the camera, you must remove the plastic panel on the inside of the back hatch. This allows access to the nuts to remove the exterior trim piece the camera is mounted to. Once removed, you must separate the trim piece to get to the camera.

Step 1:

Remove 4 Phillips head screws from the underside of the interior hatch plastic panel.

Step 2:

On the left and right side of that panel, carefully pry the panel away from the hatch to expose the plastic rivets circled in red (picture is of the removed panel). A thin blade screwdriver or a panel removal tool will help these release without breaking. Removing the small panel in the red rectangle will allow you to get more light on the situation. Once you release the circled ones, the rest pop free with a gentle tug. Set panel aside.

Step 3:

Unclip the 2 plugs in the yellow rectangles. Remove the 6 nuts in the access holes indicated by the black circles. In the black rectangles (one offscreen to the right indicated by arrow), pinch the wings of the plastic rivets with needle nose pliers to allow them to slip through their holes. Exterior trim panel should now be loose. Close the hatch, remove the panel along with the wire harness. This will require you to remove the rubber plug along with it.

Step 4:

Take the trim panel over to a work area. There will be 6 studs protruding from the back of the trim panel. The two to the far left and two to the far right must be removed to separate the painted piece from the unpainted piece. To remove these, take two of the nuts removed in the previous step and thread them on to a stud back to back. Using the open end wrench and socket, tighten them against each other. Once tight, you will be able to use the open end wrench to turn the lower nut counterclockwise to remove the stud. Once removed, use the socket and wrench to remove the nuts, then move on to the next stud.

Step 5:

This is the delicate step that prompts dealers to replace the whole trim panel. On the underside of the trim panel are thin rectangular slots that you can fit a thin-bladed screwdriver in. Insert it as shown in the picture, and carefully pry up as you gently try to separate the clip from the slot. Do this for each clip along the bottom. There is one additional clip in the center with no access slot, you just have to get inventive and pry it whatever way you see fit.

Step 6:

Remove the screw circled in red and remove the plastic retainer it was securing. The camera will now come free. Unplug and replace with new camera.

Step 7:

Reverse all of the above steps. Use the double nut trick to reinstall the studs. You will likely need another person to help you reinstall the interior hatch panel because you have to get all of the plastic rivets lined up to pop it into place.

Hope this helps someone else! If anything was not clear, please let me know. Thanks!