walsh_dw

Tried that too... when it's on but not blowing, it doesn't matter what mode it is in.

I'll start by saying, when my AC/Heating works, it works great, but the problem is that it will not always blow air. I can't seem to find any rhyme or reason to it. I could be driving around with the AC blowing perfectly cold, then stop and run into a grocery store, and when I turn my car back on, the AC won't blow anything. I took it to a mechanic once, but of course, it blew ice cold the entire day that the mechanic had it and he said everything seemed fine.

Has anything similar to this happened to anyone else?? Any thoughts on what might be causing this??

I have a 2012 Edge SEL, 2.0L EcoBoost.

I had some serious reservations about the turbo but ultimately decided to buy it... Now here I am 4.5 years later in the same boat that I'm realizing a lot of people are in... I was just curious if anyone has replaced their turbo with a non-OEM product and had better results, or if it is just safer to do a stock replacement and hope to get as many miles out of it as you can?? I'm sitting at 110k miles and was told today that I will surely need to replace the turbo soon.

Adjusting gap on plugs today needs to be done with great care to not touch the center electrode. Many plugs explicitly come with the warning to NOT adjust gap. Ecoboost engines are quite particular about gap size, so unless you get a plug with gap in the range specified by the manual, go oem.

 

EDIT:

Motorcraft SP527 is OEM

 

Similar items include

NGK 6509 LTR6IX-11 IX Iridium Plug

AUTOLITE XP5863 Iridium

Denso ITV22 / 5430

I'll be very curious to see what the gap is when they arrive, because the NGK plugs that you mentioned are exactly what I ordered from Amazon. However, I looked at them on autozone.com after and they showed the gap as being way outside the recommended range in the product details, but also claimed they would be a fit for the 2.0L...

Awesome, thanks for the advice!! In that case, any suggestions on which OBD scanner to buy?? I see most things work great with Android devices, but I am an Apple user.

I'm starting fresh so I'm trying to see if the investment in the scanner and software is better than paying a dealer to re-program this for me.

Perhaps a rookie mistake, but I did a fair amount of reading articles and reviews on spark plugs and the NGK 6509 had really good reviews across multiple sites... and multiple auto part sites claimed these would fit and work fine in the 2.0L EB. Looks like I'll be sending them back and paying more attention to gap from now on!!

Nevermind, I just realized adjusting the gap is incredibly easy and will now use this as another learning opportunity!!

I'm pretty new when it comes to servicing my own vehicle, but I would really like to be able to do more and not rely on shops for basic maintenance... With that said, I am about to change my spark plugs for the first time and want to make sure I'm doing it right.

I bought some NGK spark plugs that are factory gapped to 0.044 inches, but I just read in the manual that factory gap for my 2.0L EB is 0.029 inches... Am I going to have an issue with the plugs I bought??

35w is like stock, from what I read, there is no need to go 55w. As for the DRL, I'd suggest changing them to the turn signals so to keep the HID for normal lighting. Or you can disable the DRL completely & use a kit from DriveBright for DRL function.

And that is something that can be done at a dealership only right?? They basically reprogram what is powering the DRLs??

Looking for feedback on 35w vs 55w...

Majority of my driving is city driving, so I'm looking for a little more light and clarity at night. Any reason why I would need more than a 35w system??

Also, I live in California and have DRL... From reading, it sounds like I would need to run through a relay. Correct??

Has anyone gone for a complete exterior paint job?? I'm curious to know what it would cost.

Someone clipped my drivers side mirror and cracked the trim, molding, or casing around the mirror. The dealer says I would have to replace the whole mirror, which is $450! Websites have it for $350. Is there a way to just replace the border around the mirror?

 

Thanks

 

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Just curious if you ever found a solution to this?? I have the exact same problem but can't find any answer except replacing the entire mirror assembly.

Here is the link to what I purchased...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0716RJDBY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I removed the (2) bolts and (4) screws/clips just above the grill which gave me enough room to pull back and access the clips holding the entire emblem assembly together.

I just did this over the weekend. Found a new badge on Amazon for $20... 15 minutes, and I was good to go!!