dmjarosz

For those of you who run an aftermarket amp either for a sub or main speakers, what wire did you use as the remote turn-on lead and where did you tap into it?  I'm having a hell of a time finding one that works. 

Problem solved.  There was ~.020" radial play between the bar and bushings.  The paint (or powdercoating, whatever it is) was worn away where the bushing was, allowing room for the bar to move around.  I simply took a razor blade to the bushing, removing a small strip so the bushing could close further.  Re-assembled and all is functioning well so far...

2 hours ago, Xtra said:

I just took some advice dmjarosz gave me. There was a squeak coming from the bushings of my new rear sway bar and yes silicone grease was used when it was installed. What I did to stop the squeak was put plumbers teflon tape , (  you know that white tape used to seal threads  ) around the sway bar and greased that for insurance , then installed the bushings over it. This worked like a champ no more annoying squeaks. So thanks to dmjarosz , it works great ! 

Ya know, I'm starting to wonder if using the tape is the cause of the bushings being loose now.

3 hours ago, snmjim said:

 

Were they ever snug to begin with?

 Oh yeah, perfect fit, just like the Energy Suspension urethane bushings I installed on my summer car.  I didnt use Teflon tape and have to grease them once a year but they are still snug 6 years later. 

Ive been with this thread since almost the beginning,  its definitely not the exhaust hitting the car.  I can physically wiggle the bar inside the bushings.  I'm just a little stumped as to how they went bad so fast and has this happened to others.  

Yes I installed everything as you described and the setup was tight and noise free for the longest time. There is now probably .030" to .040" of radial play of the bar inside each of the bushings. 

Anyone else having issues with the sway bar bushings? I barely have 5k miles on the bar and the bushings are already loose, causing a knocking sound.  

Was thinking of replacing with with Energy Suspension bushings but Id prefer to go back to OEM-style rubber if anyone knows of a source/part number.

I wrap the bar in teflon tape in the area where the poly bushings will. Ive done this on a few other cars as well as instructed friends to do the same. Never a squeak from any car and never a need to grease the bushings.

 

Your McMaster Carr collars look better and more beefy than the Whiteline collars and they cost the same. What is the part number of those?

6436K143 for the 2024 Aluminum

6436K39 for the 303 stainless

9633T22 for the 316 stainless

They also come in black oxide, zinc plated, and chrome plated.

Boooo! Mine didnt come in today.

So much for getting any sleep tonight...

From what I have been told, the sway bar will fit on a 2016 Ti.

Not sure how it will affect handling compared to what it does for the Sport.

Just did the Raptor style bumper install. Pretty easy, just time consuming with all the screws and pushpins.

One thing to note: I did not have to jack up the vehicle and remove the front wheels. Simple turning the wheels lock-to-lock gives you enough room to access the fender liner screws.

I spliced the (3) led lights to the drivers-side fog lamp. Easy-peasy.

...our orders are supposed to start shipping soon.

Yeahhh buddy!

I just ordered my sway bar! John at Addco was extremely nice to work with.

Just out of curiosity, what is consequence of not using the Moog sway bar links? I don't drive my Edge super hard so my current plan is to use the OEM links until they go bad and replace with Moog as required.