mike dexter

On 4/8/2019 at 9:10 AM, mike dexter said:

Follow up...

 

I was underneath the car this weekend and saw that the new Moog control arm has a ripped ball joint boot already.  I know its not a show stopper, but am disappointed that it ripped after only one winter.

 

Add me to the "dissatisfied" list.

...and the ball joint is ka-put.  Not quite 1.5 years old.  I definitely recommend not using these parts.

On 1/10/2020 at 4:43 PM, bb56 said:

Hi Mike,

I'm about to do my 2011 Limited struts. Did you have to remove the cowl above the strut to get the top bolts out?

How long did the whole job take? Any special tools beside spring compressors?

Any tips?

 

Thanks!

My Edge is Gen 1.0, and yours is Gen 1.5, so perhaps there are some differences in this area.  I did not remove the cowl screen molding, but it was very tight getting to the nuts underneath it.  Ratchet wrenches definitely help with this.

No special tools other than the spring compressors.  Note that loading the strut into the cavity and attaching the top nuts is a two person job.  About 2 hours overall.

Hey guys, got this job done over the Christmas holidays, and they work great now.  Thanks again.

On 12/7/2019 at 9:07 PM, ace573 said:

Has anyone used Nicopp line /Brake line to fix the return hose that leaks? The original has a steel line that is shaped then goes into a molded hose. I was wondering if I would run into issues just making it out of the metal line. Much cheaper($13) then the $80 for the dealer part.

 

Does anyone know if the line is 3/8 or 3/16?

I would not recommend that.  The rubber is there to account for the relative movement between the pump and the rack.  The pump is mounted to the engine, the rack is mounted to the subframe, so a rigid metal line will fatigue and crack.

Awesome, thank you very much for your replies.

Does anyone know if these are compatible?

I have a perfectly good set of Monroe front strut assemblies on my 2007.  Except for the mounts, that is.  They are horrible!

I would like to replace them with Motorcraft strut mounts (if this combination is possible).

On 9/18/2019 at 10:53 PM, fishx65 said:

I wouldn't have a fluid exchange done but wouldn't hesitate to do a quick drain and refill once or twice.  I'f I remember correctly,  a drain gets about 5 quarts out.

Agreed.  You will get the benefit of some new fluid, and hopefully avoid the sudden shock of 100% new fluid.  If your transmission has no problems, then drain and refill again.

When I drain, I get about 5 quarts.  

Looks like a paint defect to me.  Either small bubbles or some debris in the paint.  My recommendation would be to take it to the dealer.

If it were me, I would do it myself.  Then I know exactly what went into my car.  Flush with distilled water, drain out 50% of the coolant capacity, fill back up with undiluted coolant.

However, since you don't live in a hard water area, it is probably not that urgent.

Hey EDST.  I finally got around to this job last weekend.  The new brake shoes fixed the problem.  This was surprising to me, as I hardly ever use the parking brake, and did not expect it to be that worn down. 

In fact, I had to move the slack adjusters all the way in the other direction, in order to get the rotors to go back on.

My 2007 Edge had the same problem as your Sable.  I had my dealer reprogram the PCM per the TSB, and it fixed the issue.

I cannot recall which TSB it was exactly - one of the "driveline clunk" ones.

The liftgate is not draining properly.  Just below each rubber bumpers is a rectangular drainage hole.  Clear out whatever is obstructing those drains, using something like a coated wire or a pipe cleaner that won't scratch the paint.

I have the same problem on one of my rear wheels.  Even after setting the slack adjuster all the way out, the brake shoes still would not contact the rotor.

I will likely order new park brake shoes and try them.

Let us know what happens with your car - I am curious.

Follow up...

I was underneath the car this weekend and saw that the new Moog control arm has a ripped ball joint boot already.  I know its not a show stopper, but am disappointed that it ripped after only one winter.

Add me to the "dissatisfied" list.

On 3/4/2019 at 3:49 PM, 2017 SLE FORD EDGE said:

Can someone tell me what the  black clips are for?

The paint shop at the assembly plant needs large holes for the doors to drain.  At the same time, the holes want to be small in order to reduce the amount of road noise, wind noise, air leakage in the cabin.  So Ford's solution is to install these black clips after the car is painted.

I remove these from my cars.  Leaving them in impedes water drainage from the door, which causes rust on that bottom edge.  For me, they are not worth the 0.1% (or whatever) NVH improvement (doesn't everybody just turn on the radio anyways?)

Plus, now I have some nice large access holes to spray in some WD40 into the door periodically, as an additional anti-corrosion measure.

It is just rearward of the dip stick.  Hidden by the plastic cover.

Does anybody have a list of what other parts are advised to replace when I do this job?  Gaskets, filters, fasteners, the transcooler tube & fitting, etc.

I could not find this information in the video or searching the forum.

Thanks in advance.

On 2/13/2019 at 5:04 PM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

I do believe you have to remove the lower intake manifold (?) to get to the inlet/crossover pipe.  Also have to take off the thermostat housing and drain the coolant.  No idea on book time, but I would think in the range of 4-5 hours, given the bloat built into book time.

I changed the water pump inlet tube on my 2007 without removing the lower intake.  It just took a few minutes of fishing, and a few scraped knuckles, to get the tube to route under and through.

That is 2015 thru 2018.

7 hours ago, chefduane said:

2.  No underhood light  - I installed an LED strip on a pin switch.  Lights up nice and bright now when the hood is raised!! 

Love that idea.  I want!

2007 SEL FWD.  The short open height of the liftgate.  I'm sure anyone over 6' will agree.

Nice work. That head on shot looks great.

The bumper beam with the extra wings on the ends is common for all NA vehicles.  NA safety regulations are different from EU's.

Bob, either too little fuel or too much air. I am sure there are more possible causes, but here you go...

Too little fuel: problem with fuel pump, fuel filter

Too much air: leaks in the air intake tubing, vacuum lines, clips not fastened in air cleaner box, dipstick not pushed all the way in, PCV valve stuck open

P0171 is the correct code BTW.

Spindle nut is 36mm. AutoZone should have it. And I am fairly certain you're into 3/4" drive territory.

"air dam" is the common name for that part.

Rotors & pads?

Drums & shoes. Long story. I recently did some work on a relative's Chevy, was let down by a brand I trusted (AC Delco), and am looking for something new for my Toyota.

Hadn't heard of Powerstop before I saw their complete kits on Rock Auto...daily driver, that is. Now I think I'll give them a try,

Wifey is the Edge's primary driver. It has a pretty easy life, so I've had good luck with both Duralast and Wearever rotors and pads. Cheapie rotors, but for the pads I go one step up, just so I am not changing them every year.