Randhj

Got my unleashed tune installed today on the SCT X4. Noticeable difference. I had Torrie put a 93 Street tune together for me. Seeing just under 21 PSI max boost. Cant wait to get to the track.

Thanks for the install write up. Well documented.

Snmjim your correct, pull the intake sorry for the mistake

To prove the Catch Can is not necessary we would need to pull the heads and evaluate it on a car with high miles that has not had a catch can. To my knowledge this has not been done to our engines.

For me it was worth a relatively small investment to get the can on early in the vehicles life, as I look to get a 150k miles out of this vehicle before moving to the next one and I would rather not be the person to experiment not having it on. If I were one to trade a car every 36k ofcourse I would not care and run it without a can.

From everything I read this is an inherent problem with having a direct injection only engine and exasperated by the turbochargers. My father recently purchased a brand new 2018 Raptor and I did not recommend he buy a catch can based on the fact they added port injection to that motor.

The second gen 3.5 ecoboost has gone to dual port and direct injection. To my knowledge Ford hasnt claimed that this is to help relieve issues of coking by washing the intake valves, but why would they. If they did it would be an admission to a design flaw with gen 1 V6 ecoboost motors.

Thanks for clearing that up I got confused with the PDF and the original post. I see both T-Stats in the original post.

Thanks for the update! Looks like you forgot to add the lms thermostat to the pdf

TeamRXP update: drained the car today after putting on 3,052 miles. Retrieved 12.5 mL of what appears to be 90% oil. I first drained by ball valve and then opened up bottom plate of can to get remainder. When looking inside the can, the filter does have some residual caught inside. Seems like a very minor amount. I contacted RXP to troubleshoot.

Additionally I checked out the clean side seperator(CSS). Remember the CSS is not connected to the can and is a self contained system. Visually, it definitely is catching oil.

I will pick up a small scale and weight the can and CSS from drain to drain to see any additional oil being caught by weight differences. I would imagine this would have been ideal to do at the onset of the installation as the media should be fully saturated at this point. I will be alternating my frequency of collection to try and plot a trend line to see if the rate of collection is linear.

Congratulations and welcome

Snmjim where did you get your intake valves cleaned at?

I have both systems. JLT on my blown F150 and the RXP on the Edge. Both get the job done. Ive had the PD blower off of the F150 a couple times since installing the JLT system and there is no oil inside the inlet or intake runners. The only down side to the JLT kit is the size I normally drain them at about 2,500 miles. The RXP can will last the 5,000 mile oil change and normally pulls about 8oz of oil and condensation.

Have you measured the volume of fluid collected for each application? Not a great test since these are two completely different motors but if nothing else we will have another data point for the RXP edge application.

Side note: use to have a 2002 Harley f150 with factory supercharger. One of my favorite vehicles.

 

If the JLT was available at the time you bought the RXP would you have purchased the RXP over the JLT with what you know now?

At this point I would still purchase the RXP kit. I am hoping that some of the users purchasing the JLT kit will post results after several thousand miles of testing as I will, so we can compare and see which one is better for our application. If from these results the JLT is performing roughly equal to the RXP or significantly better than the RXP, of course I would choose the JLT alternative.

The RXP can only pulls oil from the foul side (rear). In that sense it is no different then a traditional can. It has a seperate filter for the clean side (front) but that isnt a can, nor connected to the can, just a steel wool bundle in a mushroom cap wth its own vacuum line to the air box.

From my understanding, the rxp design (can itself) differs in two ways from a traditional catch can:

a. It has an additional vacuum line from the turbo inlet.

b. It has a different chamber system (I admit I havent seen a cross section to confirm this).

I am in agreement that any catch can is better than nothing. This video review of the RXP pushed me in favor of the system and the reviewer was only using one side of the can for vacuum:

When I purchased my vehicle (only two months ago) I found the lowest mileage used sport I could find to take advantage of the initial depreciation, certified warranty, certified financing offers, and have minimal abuse to the PTU and coking of the intake valves. This is my daily driver which I put 25000 miles a year on and maintenance is more important to me than performance upgrades. I chose to get the best can I could within reason and to me the RXP appears to be that ($450 vs $150). I admit it the price jump did make me question it but if it was anymore I probably would have went an alternate route. The JLT option was not available at the time and I may have considered that but it seems no different than a regular can.

I look forward to seeing the results from my test and comparing it with the JLT catch can results. With the understanding that everyones driving style is different and we are running the test in two different parts of the country, If they are both pulling roughly the same volume of oil then it does not really make sense to spend the extra on the RXP and atleast future forum members/lurkers will know to save the added cost. I have heard the cans do not pull as much in the summer so I would like to have results for both seasons.

Anyone know where I can get some good measuring cups/graduated cylinders locally?

About 1300 miles in. Ill try to find some type of graduated cylinder and update the group this weekend.

Is this the proper link to the one you are referring to?

https://www.jlttruecoldair.com/ZenCart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=524_526_590&zenid=431s33r7fa5r46c5r16j8iaca4

 

It says in stock as of now... I need to get me one. That price is worth paying. those insanely priced other kits are a no go for me! Some of us don't have daddy to pay our bills or buy our vehicles for us!

No daddy money here, bought my expensive TeamRXP kit on my own... well maybe it is daddy money since Im a daddy now lol

Thinking about doing a methanol kit for performance and further preventative maintanence. Any thoughts? Do I have to get a tuner or something else to data log for the methanol kits or can they work on there own?

Unleashed tuning has several available for the fusion sport stages 1, 2, and 3 for increasing price levels. Is the other stages really worth the extra money?

http://www.unleashedtuning.com/methanol-injection-12/

Catch Can:

TameRXP: http://teamrxp.com/products/2010-2017-ford-edge-27-35-dual-valve-system

JLT: https://www.jlttruecoldair.com/ZenCart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=524_526_590_591&products_id=1647

Definitely should. The port injection, in theory, should wash the intake valves.

Finished the walkthrough! See attached. Its a Draft version as I am awaiting confirmation from TeamRXP that it was all installed correctly. I have no check engine lights and the vehicle feels the same as it did previously.

Ford Edge Sport TeamRXP Catch Can Walkthrough.pdf

The pdf is about 90%. Been swamped at work and have a 5-1/2 month old sorry.

Did you receive your catch cans yet?

The pdf is about 90%. Been swamped at work and have a 5-1/2 month old sorry.

Did you receive your catch cans yet?

Just installed my teamrxp catch can this past weekend got the base one (non-billet). In my spare time Im gonna put together a pdf instruction set as the vid on teamrxps Facebook page was missing some steps.

Also be patient, it took about 3 weeks for me to receive mine.

No flak here on the plastidip, my only recommendation is to peel it off and redo it once a year. Left mine on my focus wheels for 5 years and could not get the residual off.

I bought some oracal 651 vinyl but its gonna be a couple weekends before I get to it. Ill let you know how it goes

I think its definitely worth the money to the dyno results. I would say two separate runs minimum one before turbos (but with tune) and one after turbos and updated tune. If it were me I would be anal retentive and get a base line as well.