clt750
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Posts posted by clt750
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Can coil packs be bench tested with a multi meter?
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Ack yes, I had it basackwards. The car came with gold and they switched out to green. Appearently it affects 2007-2009 Edge's and MKXs.
This is what is confusing Enigma-2.
But if that chart is correct is does state it should be Yellow.
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Attached is a chart showing what models/years came with what coolants:
Thanks that lools like great info but its telling me Yellow.... or is it gold. Basically it makes it a little more confusing to me. Did I not read correctly that Ford came out and said the yellow/gold was not to be used and that green should be used as replacement?
This is a low mileage dry engine that I am having swapped out. Supposedly out of a 2007 Edge. So no oil, no coolant.
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I am getting mixed signals as I saw Enigma-2 post a link that shows the VC5. Then I see Fishx65 posts a link that shows them ordering the VC10. Is this a certain year thing with the different coolants?? I need to figure this out as I need to drop this off at my mechanics tomorrow morning to wrap up this night mare.
I just called the dealer where I bought the VC5 and they are telling the VC10 variant is used for diesels. So I dont know.
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The correct green coolant is this one
VC10
The one you got, VC5, is incorrect
What I bought is not diluted though as you have posted in that link.
This is what I bought
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-VC-5-Concentrated-Antifreeze/dp/B000NUB132
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The correct green coolant is this one
VC10
The one you got, VC5, is incorrect
Great
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Cats - you do get what you pay for. In many cases, the cheap ones will rust or fail altogether. Good luck getting warranty replacements too. Not worth the hassle. IDK what used cats go for, but you will want to hang on to them for resale/recycling rather than trash them.
Yeah I guess I can get cash for them right? I had one stolen off of our 2000 Toyota 4 Runner a few years back.
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Orange is incorrect, Green is fine. Orange came into play, I want to say 2012 MY.
I went to my local Ford Dealer and pick up some green concentrate. What they had in Green was VC-5.... so I bought 2 gallons. $17.00 a gallon. Its Green.... I hope its the right stuff. I find the price very odd for a dealership because Amazon wants 30,00 a gallon for the same thing.
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Personally I would stay with Motorcraft as I really don't know if the others are better or not. But if you do change, even if it states it's compatible, I would still do a complete flush. Not all coolants play well together. Also if you change, consider labeling the coolant fill with the actual coolant being used. Memory fades over time.
Im having a conversation with my mechanic who is doing the engine swap on my 07 3.5 and he was going to go with Ford recommended coolant which I believe he stated was orange. Should I tell him to go wit green instead?
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Engine is being replaced due to water pump failure, IIRC. Cats don't die that easy on our Edge/MKX vehicles. BUT if it is within the budget, why not get a fresh start. Cats & O2 sensors.
Well Im not gonna say within budget but Im gonna do it.
What is the deal with the cheap ones on line compared to the speedy ones? Ive seen them from around 120.00 to plus 700.00.
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The fact that the engine is being replaced is a good indication that whatever killed it most likely destroyed the cats as well. I would replace them.
Water pump
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So I need thoughts on Catalytic Converter Replacement. Im having the engine replaced and my guy is recommending replacing both converters that come right off the exhaust manifolds. He states that they are basically clogged. Ive seen them and yes they look dirty inside and you can barely be seen through. A pinhole almost. At least that what it looks like. But I am not a certified mechanic so I cant say for sure.
Ill will say I have a good feeling about this guy and I dont think hes trying to screw me. Hes been recommended from a friend as well, He said he would throw the old ones back on but hes got me worried now. Id like to just have him do it because they are RIGHT THERE and can be installed very easily. Hes claiming it is quite a job to do if the engine and sub frame are back in the Edge Hes quoting 450.00 a piece for the converters and obviously free labor because he is going to have to install them anyway.
2007 3.5. Old engine had 120k on it
Anyways just looking for thoughts. Ive looked on line and have found them cheaper but he is not really hip to me bringing him parts to install which I totally understand.
Thanks in advance
Curt
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Coolant was original was about to flush during next oil change, from what I have read that was a big mistake, the new motor will be done every 30
Hey Im going through this right now. Curious where you got your motor. I found one with 26k for 1500.00 through First Class Engines. I cant do the install though so Im having that done at a shop. Trying to do this without breaking the bank, Its adding up though.
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Wasn't trying to scare you. I had a similar situation with my same year Edge. Tranny always gave me issues, then finally gave up the ghost and it was 5k to replace. Still owe a little bit on it, but it would of been worthless without a works trans. I was just saying if the transmission was sitting on the floor somewhere, now would be the time to do any preventive maintenance, but I fully understand a budget.
So after some research we are talking 2 sensors right? TSS and OSS? Simple R&R with the engine out I think is what you are saying.
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Whats shape is the rest of the car in? How long do you intend to keep it?
If it's in decent shape, and you intend to drive it for several more years, I would go with a certified rebuild. That way, it's been torn down, cleaned internally and everything's been done.
Look at it as if you were buying a nice used car for transportation. Can you get one of $3,500? No.
And the extra grand gives the confidence in knowing you're good for at least another 100-150k miles. (Who knows what's going on inside a used engine? Blocked oil journals? Corrosion? Oil pan full of gunk? Old oil in the wee places?).
Thanks for the input. The Edge is in decent shape. Body has small dents and scratches but nothing serious or really noticeable. Im trying to rope this in with as little cash out as possible. Im rolling the dice buying this used engine and praying for the best. It does have a warranty but that doesnt cover the labor I will spend to have it removed and installed if it ever comes to that..... which isnt cheap
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I'll just have to throw my $.02 in here about the transmission.
Like Iggy said, if you are planning to keep the car for a couple of years, put the money into it. Not sure how your tranny worked before, but if it is out, now would be a good time to check the TSS and OSS and maybe even the valve body. That would complete your drive train.
Tranny seem to operate well. No issues. TSS, OSS, Valve Body? Ill have to run it by the shop. I have no idea what these are but will look them up...... and I hope nothing more is wrong. I am trying to spend as little as possible here. Im already killing my budget. I do plan on holding on to it as unfortunately Im still making payments on this thing.
This has been a big unfortunate expense I wasnt expecting.
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So another update and question. So I have found a used 3.5 with 26k on it. $1500.00, free shipping with a 5 year warranty....... the 5 years being based on my shop replacing a nice list of parts that I wasn't expecting. The timing chain system and water pump being on that list. Which I get and understand. Its a great time to replace this stuff with the engine sitting outside the vehicle. So Ive been pricing out this parts list to go buy this stuff on my own so I can try and save a buck or two. I came across this Timing Chain kit I wanted to ask you experts about.
Does this seem legit or is it a waste of time? Seems pretty cheap as far as price goes.
So I am now looking at paying my guy additional money to install this stuff. With parts and additional labor this $1500.00 engine may be pushing closer to the $2500.00 plus range. Ive been quoted $3500.00 for a full rebuild.
Not sure what to do. I only want to do this once.
Thanks
Curt
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So I think I have narrowed down my engine search to a used 3.5 with 26K on it. I am not going to be doing this work I am going to have someone do it. My question now is does anyone have recommendations on any extra stuff I should do now while I am having this work done? Should I replace the water pump before having the new/used engine installed? Im looking for anything beyond the water pump that should be done really since the engine will be exposed.
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Hey Curt, I can't answer your question, but can you share what maintenance you had done with your antifreeze prior to the failure? Did you have it changed frequently?
In the time we have owned it nothing more than just checking the level. I think we've put 20k on it since we've had it. Im thinking now I should have been more on top of it when we bought it .... but I had no idea these were so temperamental with the cooling systems.
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Hey Im going through this right now. May be a bit off topic for this thread so Im sorry ahead of time. Does anybody have any recommendations for places to buy a motor on line? Ive seen numerous sites and have seen prices around 1500.00 for a 3.5 with around 50 to 60k on them, with 5 year warranties. I think I have finally found a shop here locally that will do it if I supply the engine. No way in hell I would attempt to do this job. Very scary to me.
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Im in the process of looking for an engine due to water pump failure and the massive over heating event that followed. Such a strange design. Ill never understand what Ford was thinking and why they designed it the way they did.
Its nice you actually found out about it ahead of time. I hearing most people don't.
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So I am going to have my engine replaced in my 2007 Edge due to water pump failure. 120k miles and BAM!!!! Game over. Ive been looking on line at used engines with around 50 to 60k miles to buy, and then have a local shop install it. Two questions.
What years are interchangeable with the 2007? Am I limited to a certain group of years that I can search for? I would like to broaden my search and find something with the lowest miles possible. Im trying to do this on a budget if possible.
Also a question that almost always pops up is does the engine have an oil cooler or not. I don't think mine does but how do I confirm it does or doesn't? Are the two options not interchangeable?
Thanks in advance
Curt
LED bulb conversion for blinkers
in Glass, Lenses, Lighting, Mirrors, Sunroof (BAMR), Wipers
Posted
Anyone converted turn signal and brake lights to LED bulbs? I just add Sylvania 3157Rs to the back for turn signal replacement to try them out. I still have incandescent up front. They work but the relay is still sped up indicating a bad bulb. Which I can deal with at the moment as long as the signals blink which they do. Ive heard talk of resistors or possibly changing out a blinker relay. Anyone here done any of this with success?