Dsmtweaker

7 hours ago, Fingernip said:

Your mass balance will not become higher unless it us unable to dissipate the heat. 2 similar materials once mated will not cause an increase in temp. Initially it will decrease until heat-soak and thermal dissipation will likely improve due to increased surface area. now you introduce a more conductive material and it further improves this effect. We apply this same logic in aerospace overhaul and repair. 

 

You do in fact see this exact same logic used in various objects. Aluminum cores on cooking pans/pots, Fin-less heat-sinks used on heat spreaders on processors. Adding fins adds efficiency and increases surface area while decreasing material weight. 

But putting to metals on top of each other does not bond them, there has to be a thermal compound.  I can stick an aluminum heat sink on a processor by itself, and the exact same heat sink on a with thermal past.  One will stay cool, on will fry, the bonding is the difference.

also, adding mass does increase balance temperature, because it increases peak heat soak temp.  You have more mass that can reach a higher temperature, but mass doesn’t creat more cooling surface.

 This is what we use when creating heat sinks, or inter coolers, or radiators.  Mass doesn’t create the difference, design does.  A 10 ft by 10ft solid aluminum intercooler will run hotter then a 1ft by 1ft with proper fin design.  Even though it has 90 more sq feet of surface.  If these covers had some fun design, and a thermal compound then I could see it. 

But either way, this conversation is trying place theories on already proven sciences.   It’s the same as saying waxing a car will make it faster because of less resistance....

1 minute ago, Fingernip said:

I disagree on the amount it will impact cooling performance. Without knowing exactly what coating or the thickness it is not possible to claim it would become ineffective as a heat-sink. Additional mass does not require additional cooling unless its introducing additional heat or decreased conductivity. It will absorb heat from a mating object until temperatures balance, but because of its better dissipation rate into atmosphere it will continually draw heat.  I work with various materials and many processes that use this same basic concept daily. Often including coatings and platings. 

95% would be a minimum base.  Meaning any material or thickness would result in that minimum.  Material, thickness, etc. would come into play after the initial minimum base.  Yes it does take more cooling, otherwise your mass balance is going to be much higher(higher temps)  

i also work specifically with cooling and cooling materials(in the electronics field). I know all about metals, cooling properties, materials, etc. 

These would resault in great great diminishing returns, and then into negative returns.

if these somehow maintained these magic cooling properties then you would see them on race cars, circuit boards, and host of other items.

7 minutes ago, edge-STinger said:

 

Well I can tell you from personal experience.... Proven!!

 

I installed a set of these on my 2016 Dodge Challenger Scat Pack, installed one on the front and one one the rear did 6 laps at my local track then checked and compared to the other side with a digital temperature reader, found a drop of 32 degrees on the front and 19 degrees at the rear.

 

Yes I checked directly on the caliper itself and not on the cover.

 

I will agree that it will fluctuate from one vehicle to another, but again to the research I did and talking to other people that use them at my track we all came to the same conclusion.

 

I'm not here to argue or recirculate bad information as you so elegantly put it, I'm simply sharing my own experience and others I associate with on a daily basis.

 

Thanks for the basic physics class............

 

 

Not trying to argue either.  I just don’t like seeing misleading information posted.

if those are the results you personally got than either the testing method was flawed, or testing equipment was.  But I’m sorry your calipers were not colder after your runs.

  Not a personal attack, not trying to be a dick.  But these covers can’t change the rules of physics.  

15 minutes ago, Fingernip said:

 

You also shouldn't claim 100% of applications 100% of the time. To act as a heatsink it only needs to be conductive and add mass. It would eventually heat-soak and fail to provide benefit. Being aluminum though means its going to have much better thermal conductivity than the base material and much better heat dissipation. As long as there is no air gap between to act as insulation I would imagine it would have some cooling benefit in at least some scenarios. 

Thats if it was bare aluminum.  But any sort of coating, such as paint.  Would dramatically(95%+) reduce heat transfer.    

That additional mass also requires additional cooling.  Once reaching a high temperature it would then act as an insulator for the caliper, keeping it hot.

1 hour ago, edge-STinger said:

 

1- would it be cheaper, yes. But unless you do a perfect job painting them (meaning the prep most of all) the paint will flake off in time.

 

2- It's been proven that caliper covers (aluminum not plastic), help dissipate the heat.

 

3- easy on, easy off. If you get tired of them for what ever reason you can take them off and go back to the factory look

 

Proven!?  Please don’t recirculate bad information. 

And what source; other than the manufacturer has “proven” this in scientific testing?

 I can tell you from an engineer standpoint it’s not true.  This will add heat 100% of the time on 100% of applications.

first, it’s not like a standard aluminum heat sink for electronics, you aren’t  going to get the tower effect.  For that you would need a dedicated thermal compound between the caliper and cover.  You would also need constant airflow(so no stop lights) So heat transfer would be minimal and even less with any coating/paint.  Plus you would build up more heat, and create a larger surface that needs to be cooled.

2nd, your reducing airflow to the caliper.

and 3rd, calipers can be mounted in multiple configuration, shapes, and sizes.  Meaning what might cool one might not cool another.  So making a blanket statement would be False.

so no, these can not dissipate heat, they can only add it.  Anyone that tells you otherwise needs a basic physics class.

Wouldn’t it be cheaper to simply paint them?

I personally am not a fan of putting a cover over a hot part such as the calipers. Just my 2cents, but for me these would fall in the same category as putting a large spoiler on a Honda Civic.  But to each their own.

On 2/17/2019 at 1:03 PM, omar302 said:

 

I think there is a regulation dictating that in case the DRL is close to the turn signal it should turn off when the signal is on. 

Also, it can be changed in ForScan:

726-26-02    xxx*    xxxx    xxxx

DRL Switchback w/Turn Signal: 0=disable, 1=enable

 

This worked, but the signature lights dim way down when the turn signal is on.  Do you know if there is a setting so the signature lights keep their intensity?

On 5/18/2019 at 12:11 PM, edge-STinger said:

Bought a tuner from Unleashed Tuning, Been doing some data logs with Torrie (the owner), for the last couple of weeks and it's like a night and day difference. Super impressed with the results and we're not finished yet. If you're on the fence about doing it trust me, it's well worth it...

Which tuner did you go with?

10 hours ago, akirby said:

 

98%

 I would beg to differ.   I came from an Audi S3, which was 60k.  It’s the “sports” version of the Audi A3.  The price of a vehicle is very subjective as 50 K for a car might be expensive to some, and cheap to others.  Also, a cars price doesn’t effect people parts purchases or modding, as you can get just as many parts for an Audi R8 or a GTR as you can a Honda Civic.

the a3 had limited aftermarket options, while the S3 had plenty.   That’s because the manufacturers New that people purchasing a “S” Platform are more performance driven.  

The edge is no different, The majority that wont modify a car won’t ever buy the ST, they will stick to a different trim.  Just like they would buy an a3 over an s3,  or an impresa over an STI.

the ST is also unique  in the sense that it fills a void in the market of having size and performance at this price point.   The closest comparables are going to cost at least 20k more.  So a lot folks who want both size and speed under 70k will be drawn to the ST.

so while the majority might not mod, I would confidently say, if parts were available, at the very minimum 20-30% of owners would.  Which is on par with all other proformance based vehicles.  

2 hours ago, Nick Halstead said:

hasn't made the site yet, view their facebook, they just fitted a Fusion Sport

Do fusion sport parts fit the ST?

12 hours ago, Nick Halstead said:

yeah, you will be waiting a long time. Best bet is to start sourcing fabricators now. Due to design, 3in off the turbo is going to be a crazy mod, will require lots of fab, can go smaller and then out to 3in. an immediate bend at the turbo is the problem. A few Edges are running upgraded turbos now. EcoPower Parts just came out with all hard piping. No intake on market, legit intake will probably never happen on this chassis.

Where do you see their hard piping?  I don’t see anything listed for edge on their site

37 minutes ago, Nick Halstead said:

you are gonna need, upgraded turbos/fuel pump and a host of other things to make that happen.

That’s the plan, just waiting for parts to actually be released, not much on the market yet.  

But we were  planning on 3” catless turbo back, upgraded IC, external WG, upgraded pump+injectors, intake, and other support items. We would like to see what we can get out of the stock turbos before we upgrade(probably to large single)

but this is a company car we use for clients, so we want to mod it, we do with all of them.

we had all the parts in the attached on our Subaru’s before they had 1k miles.... so we are already behind on the ST.

18 minutes ago, vmaxbaby said:

I would get a dyno tune if you are adding allot of extra parts to it.  Doing data logs back and forth, and high speed runs on back roads work but would be allot faster and safer to have the car on rollers. 

True,  but a road tune is always preferred over a dyno tune.   Also,  last time I had checked there was only 1 awd dyno in the state(Michigan). Which is 5 hours from us. Next closest is Chicago, about 6 hours.

Do you have ideas of expected gains on these tunes?  Also do you offer custom tunes to go with other parts?  

We are looking to get at least another 200whp  out of the stock block and turbos before this spring season.

Anyone know how to keep the drl led accents lights(ford signature lighting) on While using turn signal?