ralfwalter

Doing this now for my 2018 Edge and 2018 Escape...  Thanks!!

I have a couple packages of Metra speaker mounting rings (4 rings total) so you don't have to hack away at the factory housings.  They worked perfectly for me.  Also have a couple packages of Metra wire connectors that plug right into the factory plugs.  4 total plugs.  To get the wire inside the door for plugging into the speaker what I did was drill a hole into the top of the rings large enough to get the largest speaker terminal through.  Easy squeezy.  I also have (still in package) 2 unused 0 gauge crimp terminals and also (still in package) a 5 pack of 4 gauge crimp terminals.  Also 1 loose 0 gauge unused terminal.  I don't really want the hassle of sending them back.  Lastly I have 2 pieces of about 12" each of 0 gauge blue OFC cable and 1 piece 18" 4 gauge OFC 'snakeskin' cable.  Pretty much free (I just want this stuff to get used up).  You pay for the shipping (I'll round up a smidge to make it slightly worth my time).  Will mail USPS priority mail.  Here's the thing though - on Tuesday (Sept. 3) I go away for a week.  If you get at me by today/tomorrow we can probably make something happen before I leave or it'll have to wait until I return on the 11th.  Ideally would prefer this go as a lot.  DM me.  PayPal.  Thanks!

I searched a lot on what to use to cut 1/0 amp/weld wire and saw everything from using a disc cutter (dremel) to hacksaws and a few other things.  Once thing I did not see was to use... bolt cutters.  I happen to have one that I use when I installed closet maid shelving (to avoid using hacksaw).  I was stunned at the super clean cut I was able to get even on the 1/0 gauge power wire I am installing for my new set up.  If you are looking for options and do not have a proper cable cutter but happen to have bolt cutter... give it a try.  Cheers!  - R -

Hi all.  I did a bunch of searching and really coming up with much so I'll inquire with a new thread.  2018 Sport with Sony system - hands far from the volume controls, and the speed compensated setting is OFF, my volume changes all by itself.  It'll go down a couple notches and go up a couple at other times.  I'm really perplexed.  I did the whole pull the fuse trick but no luck.  Any ideas on how to keep the radio from being all possessed?  Thanks!

On 8/21/2019 at 10:19 PM, truckroot said:

That is definitely a different system. I’ve redone mine quite a few times so here are some tips you may find helpful. 

 

-Mounting the front xovers in the rear will be ideal. The F02 harness comes with an additional harness that attaches to where the output from the factory amp was so there is no splicing. 

 

-The rears you may want to put in the rear door panels. It is extremely difficult to get wires through the doors because of the molex plug. It’s possible, but it’s a pain!

 

-Those Hertz MP 25.3 are amazing tweeters. I prefer soft dome over metal ones, unless they are Beryllium, but that’s me. Sounds like you will be running those active so make sure you set your HPF to at least 2.5KHz with a minimum slope of 12dB so you are at 2x FS. 

 

-I would also suggest a bit of sound dampening for the doors. You don’t need to get crazy with it but it definitely helps. That coupled with the fast rings makes good speakers sound awesome. 

 

Have fun fun with your install and keep posting your progress✌️

Managed to get new wires into the rear doors.  it was a project!  There's a dummy connector in that molex that I drilled through.  Also had to disconnect it to be able to ID that and drill the hole but it worked out.  I'm pretty happy I'll have all 4 crossovers under the cargo liner.  It'll look cool I guess when I see it every few months.  The rear doors were the hard part for sure because of running that dedicated tweeter wire.  Oh I took your suggestion and I did dampen behind the speakers best I could and also used the rings.  Can't wait to power all this up!  Cheers!

My pieces and parts for the system upgrade are starting to trickle in.  I'm OK with that as this will be a phased (no pun intended) project.  Let me introduce to you my new Stealthbox from JL!  See pics.  I was going to do a sub upgrade and wanted to stay with a box hidden.  Modding the OG seemed like an OK idea and would have spend about $200 (ish) on a speaker anyhow.  Plus hassle.  Plus I really wanted a 10".  The solution... this Stealthbox.  this thing is HEFTY (price too lol).  The couple pics were an attempt to show the Stealthbox is larger than the stock.  Maybe an inch along one side and possibly 2 along another.  So definitely larger.  Going to get this boy installed (long ways away from hooking it up though.  Very nicely made at first glance.  Cheers!

Hi everyone!!

Anticipating my new parts arriving for an upgrade to my Sony 12 speaker system.  Here's what I'm going with (for the most part):

Deleted the center speaker already.  Screw that thing in every way.  Stereo or surround mode... terrible terrible terrible... and they've been doing this for years.  ugh
Pioneer TS-Z65CH for each of the 4 doors (had to have them - could have gone slightly cheaper but no... this is the bees knees at $300 a set imho)
Stealthbox SB-F-EDG2G/10TW1 (omg this was $700 but after weighing the hassle of going with a box sitting my cargo or modding the stock to accomodate a new 8" I just caved in)
Hertz MP 25.3 for the rear pillars (my OCD hates I'll have 3 different speaker brands but I think it's time to lighten up, Francis)
Kenwood Excelon XR600-6DSP 1 channel for each of the doors and then the other 2 for the rear pillars (not sure who else has done it this way yet, more on that later...)
iDatalink Maestro AR
iDatalink HRN-AR-FO2 Harness

Alpine MRV-M500 (not new but already had this so why not re-purpose) dedicated for the sub
Roadkill RKFR6 FAST Rings (seems like something worth trying)
T-SPEC V12-ANL Fuse Holder for the 1/0 wire at the battery
T-Spec FDB-124M DISTRIBUTION BLOCK to split to two 4 gauge wires for each of the amps

Wire will come from local hardware because wire kits are not my thing.

Already pulled the stock sub and listed that for sale.

My configuration may stray from what's already been done.  Instead of leaving the front tweeters on their own channel I am utilizing the component crossovers so I can free up those 2 channels for the rear pillar speakers.  We'll see how it goes.  If it does not work out great then it's only a $100 loss and a very easy thing to undo.

Intent is to mount all 4 crossovers in the same area in either the right or left under cargo "foamy things".  There's already a dedicated wire that runs to the front tweeters because of they are/were on a dedicated channel but for the rears I will need to run a wire to each of the rear doors from the crossovers for the tweeters.  I am doing this because it just seems odd to try to mount those crossover boxes inside the door panels.  We'll see.  The fun stuff will be figuring out how I want to mount the crossovers to a platform for the occasional peek (I like to take pride in my work).

Not sure how the configuration will go for the rear pillar speakers in terms of 'fade' so we'll see.  But I will wire them stereo (they will not be a mono-summed 'surround' set up any longer).

The process is going to be somewhat slow because I want to do this over several days and not as a marathon.

I'll get in the sub first and un-wired.  Then start with the rear doors and get the tweeter wires run and install those speakers.  The fronts will be a little easier as they are fully wired separately.

The Kenwood amp is not even ordered yet.  Seems it's easily obtainable new (not refurbished) at about $500.  This give me time to draw up some funds to help out.  If not then oh well I'm getting it anyway with a few weeks.

My purpose for documenting this nonsense is to have something to go back to so I can see if I executed according to plan AND if it worked out ok.

I did a full upgrade on my 2008 focus with new amp and sub amp including speakers and it was night and day different.  I skipped all this for my car in between (2016 Fusion) but had wanted to do it.  This time I decided to commit.  So here it is.  I researched this a ton and most of the pointers came from this very place (which I appreciate).

If there are particulars of the install you hope you might be able to glean from my project please post before I'm finished and I'll do my best to document.  There are already some great posts from installs and I'll probably not repeat any of those learnings if possible.

Wish me luck!

32K plus super warranty (because I'm paranoid like that) for a 2018 Sport with about 16K miles.  Not a great deal.  let's just say I had to have so I went for it... and a barely used Escape Titanium on the same same.  ugh

Split up the items and listed in multiple places.  I think adding a sub enclosure where there was none is a benefit so selling that $65 shipped and then the subwoofer itself for $50 shipped (some folks like to keep their system stock and if you just need a replacement...).  Thanks all!

I'm doing a system upgrade on my Sport and have been stuck on figuring out what to do about the sub.  I'm going to go for a custom fit stealthbox but they are pretty expensive so I'm hoping that parting with this will take away some of the sting.  As such I'm parting ways with the OEM subwoofer and enclosure and would actually prefer to split them apart.  Posting to gauge interest.  I'm struggling to come up with price(s) at the moment so bear with me.

5 hours ago, Sage said:

 

I pulled mine off and nothing behind it.  Ir does give a nice view of the firewall stuff.

Likely a cost savings thing. 

Hi!  I've seen tons of reviews of various 2015+ Edge's that seem to have a small drawer just lower left of the steering wheel but my 2018 sport lacks that.  It's just some pull off panel thingy.  Was this a cost cutting thing because when I pulled it off it did not seem to have much behind it.  Thanks!

R

11 hours ago, truckroot said:

The front tweeters are on dedicated channels because they are actively crossed over at the factory amp. This also allows for tweeter attenuation in the factory DSP so they they are not overpowering the other speakers. (Tweeters usually have a high sensitivity and don’t require much power.)

 

Since you are going the DSP route, I would highly recommend keeping the tweeters on their own channel. Passive crossovers have limited levels of tweeter attenuation and if the lowest is too loud, you’re stuck. With the DSP, you can EQ each speaker to sound the same, set the crossovers for optimal sound, and set time alignment so the sound from the tweeter and mid reach your ear at the same time. This allows for better sound quality if that’s you’re end goal. Skip the rear pillar, the rear coaxials will provide plenty rear fill when powered by that Kenwood. 

You know I kind of wondered if those tweets might be crossed over at the amp.  I think you are right to recommend keeping them on their own channel.  Bummer about it is that the rear door tweets then must be passively crossed over but I guess that's fine... what I'm looking at has -3db, 0db, +3db so maybe it's ok.  Good call on the suggestion.  I suppose that rules out the extra (maybe useless) effort of throwing in D pillar tweeters.  A little confusing why they are there and why they are summed.  My OCD will hate seeing them knowing they are deleted but I did delete the front center (which, by the way, changes so much for the better).  Thanks so much for chiming in.  I'm hoping the kenwood, new speakers, and my existing alpine to power a sub will be just what the doctor ordered.  Cheers!!

Ah makes sense.  It is equipped with that.  Good to know what's behind there. 

New to the Edge family and I have a 2018 Sport.  Mine's Canadian version and the DRLs are always on with no option to turn off.  I had the same issue with my Canadian Fusion but I did the whole forscan thing to enable the option to turn them off.  Well I figured why not replace them since they are dedicated  (not shared with the main lights).  Totally worth it.  Do it.  Then I noticed the turn signals are lame-o too so threw in LEDs.  Again, totally worth it.

I can dig up the DRL if anyone needs it (I don't have it handy) but the turn signal bulbs I tried are https://www.ebay.com/itm/7440A-7442-Amber-CANBUS-Error-Free-LED-Turn-Signal-Light-Bulb-For-Honda-Acura/113804815169?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649.  Cheers!

Not a new topic that someone is is upgrading to Kenwood Excelon XR600-6DSP.  I'm getting things figured out before I buy all the goodies but I'm stumped on front tweeters.  According the wiring diagram I saw in another post here it seems that the front tweeters are on dedicated channels.  The rear door tweeters are wiring direct from the woofers (similar to what you would see in component set ups.  Are the front tweeter channels that was for a reason?  I will be upgrading all the speakers (except the center dash as that's a delete) and if I wire fronts as component and the rears then I'll save myself 2 channels and might as well go ahead do those rear d pillar tweets while I'm at it.  I'll be running a dedicated amp for the sub (I'll install a new 8" with poly fill to see if it's enough and can always add an additional sub box to the cargo area to the same sub amp if I really want.).  Anyway, staying on topic - what's up with the front tweeters being dedicated channels?  Thanks!

EDIT: Almost decided to delete the rear pillar tweets because they are split (not stereo) but it appears the factory sub is fed 2 channels I'll re-route them to the pillars to get stereo.  Will need to test out that idea to make sure they are true left/right.

Loving my Sport.  My OCD is going nuts with the off-center grille.  See pic.  I think the non-Sports are different.  But why is the Sport's like this?  It seems so odd.  Thanks!

Hi everyone!  I had to get my son out of a darn wonky Focus (2013) and shuffled some cars around so he's got my 2016 Fusion and I treated myself to a 2018 Edge Sport.  I really dig it!  I thought I had a 3.0 MKZ all good to go but the dealer really dropped the ball and I saw a black Edge sport in a lot where I was upgrading my wife's Escape so I got a bit spontaneous.  Super glad I did.  It's like my Fusion but way taller and tons of cargo.  It really moves too!  Been lurking here for some time and hope I can contribute.  In a month I've tinkered a tad (went LED on the DRLs as turning lamps) and deleted the center speaker (OMG Ford why are you killing the sound in every vehicle you make with a center speaker?  lol).  Ok that's it for now.  Cheers!