ZeroPlus

12 hours ago, higuera-tax@hotmail.com said:

Hi,
I have a 2011 Ford edge Sel 3.5 that doesn’t want to turn over everytime I put gas in the car. And only when I do this... this happens at the gas station.  When I get it to start over after 2-3 tries.  There’s no problem turing the car on, until I go to the gas station.

 

Service light finally came on and I did ran my Amazon bought OBD scanner which came back with PS2196 and PS2198.  O2 sensors for Bank 1-Sensor 1 and Bank 2-Sensor 1.  

 

I replaced both O2 sensors, car started up fine and actually seemed to run a bit quieter and more importantly cleared the check engine light.

 

On good for about a week driving and  many times. However go back to the gas station and same problem.  Except today, when not only did it not turn over put it seemed stuck in trying to turn over.  I turn the ignition key, with the normal sounds before turning over, but when it didn’t start after a couple of seconds I let go of the ignition key but the car kept going ... as if I was turning the key.

I’m not a mechanic by any means so apologies if my terminology or description aren’t the best.

 

Appreciate any help anyone can share.

Thank you!

This is total speculation on my part, but I suspect there are two separate issues here.  The ignition remaining on sounds like a mechanical glitch in the ignition switch itself.  The inability of the car to start after a fill up sounds like an evap system issue  - there is an overload of gas vapors in the combustion chambers.  Try not filling it to the top and see what happens.  Over filling the gas tank can send raw gas to the charcoal canister and damage it.  

Buy a Toyota or Lexus next time.

Any connection?

Working on a 2009, it has the same type of noise coming from that general area, but not as intense as yours.  It quiets down after several minutes.  I have not determined the source, so I will be interested in this thread.

On 3/28/2007 at 12:06 PM, SEL_Plus said:

After searching everywhere I could think of I called the dealer's parts department. The fellow I spoke with said he'd never heard of an FL-400-SB12, either, and that an FL-400S is the right filter for the Edge. Why the manual calls for the other is beyond me.

On a 2009 Edge I worked on , the Ford dealer and the Ford Internet site said the vehicle used a Motocraft FL500 filter.  The previous oil change had been done at a Ford dealership, and it had a Purolator PL20195 installed - which is equivalent to a FL400 Motocraft oil filter.  I was totally confused, but put on another Purolator L20195 and it appeared to seal correctly.  Splitting applications of non- interchangeable oil filters in a mid-month production run is absurd!  The car sticker provides the month/year of production only - not the day of the month.  The manual says FL400 and FL500 - I thought it might be both, but it is either/or.  These oil filters  thread pitches are different and they are not interchangeable.  I will stick with the FL400 thread pitch filters, as it appears to work.

55 minutes ago, lildisco said:

I thought that the only engine choices in 2019 were the 2.0 or the 2.7 Ecoboost. 

Thanks for noticing that error on my part - it is a 2009 model.  

A 2009 Edge with the 3.5L engine had a production shift mid -January of the 2019 production run.  Prior to 1-16-09, it called for a FL400 oil filter.  After that date, it shifted to a FL500 (Motocraft).  The thread pitches on these 2 filters are different - FL400 is standard and the FL500 is metric - they should not be interchangeable.  The dealer said the model I had was the FL500 group, but then put on a Purolator TL20195 oil filter, which is the equivalent of the Motocraft FL400.  The insert in the manual says FL400 - SB12 or FL500, which is confusing, given the different thread pitches on the filter base.  I would have thought the threads on the oil filter mounting plate would be damaged with the wrong filter  - how can 2 different thread pitches be applicable?

2 hours ago, macbwt said:

You can reach me at this group.  https://mewe.com/join/mactfordedge

Very interesting photo!  Obviously this varnish would also be found on other engine components.  The choice is obvious - synthetic.  Maybe that is why conventional oils always had a suggested change interval  of 3000 miles.

On 8/31/2009 at 3:32 AM, pxb006 said:

 

Thanks for the info! I'll look for one of those the next time I change my oil. Guess I'm going to have to read the supplement.

The Ford dealer had put in a Purolator TL 20195 in a 2009 Edge with a 3.5L engine.  The thread pitch on this filter is UNF-28.  The FL 500 Motocraft filter has a thread M22X1.5 -6H.  But they are supposedly interchangable on this model, according to the manual.  The Purolator L22500 has the metric thread pitch, so that should fit too.  I don't understand how both thread pitches can be interchangable.  I put in a Purolator L20195 and it seemed to fit.  

Update - these 2 filters are NOT interchangeable.  You must determine the correct one by the exact day of the month the car was made.  I think the manual insert inferred to either/or  - but not both.  The vehicle used the FL400 thread pitch version.  The FL500 would not have worked.

1 hour ago, BraddB said:

Anyone?  This issue isn't a major problem but it should be fixable.   You may need replacement parts if this won't work....

21 hours ago, Suzie68 said:

We have a 2011 3.5

the car has developed a wobble/vibration while accelerating, seems to be more noticeable under load (ac or towing)

No codes, has been watched with laptop while driving 

car has new plugs/coils (didn’t fix problem)

1 year old drive axle’s 

happens between 1800 and 2200 rpm

 

ideas? Thoughts? Anyone else have this happen?

 

motor mounts? 
can’t seem to track this down 

 

thanks!

Alignment?

13 hours ago, Justin400 said:

Rear Differential failed and had it replaced with a salvaged part. i’m still hearing the noise that’s the reason i brought it in in the first place. low rumbling that sounds louder with speed. my second thought is the PTU but in a previous post i mentioned that i had that serviced at the same time as the Diff. the noise seems to be getting more aggressive. i don’t think it’s wheel bearings either because there is no play in the wheels and steering doesn’t seem to be effected. any advice to troubleshoot this? i can’t tell if i’m paranoid or if there is an issue.   is it common for the diff and ptu to fail together?

Could the salvaged part be defective?  

Ford's attitude and response is unacceptable.  It implies Ford has outsourced parts production, probably to China.  Does the part have to be new and/or a genuine Ford part?  Depending on what it is, you might get by with a genuine Ford part from a salvage yard.  That might cover the stipulations of the warranty and keep it in force.  EBay is the vendor for a lot of salvage yards - it might be worth checking it out.  Your mechanic could verify if the part sufficiently provides a temporary but reliable solution to getting the vehicle operational.  Be sure to bounce the idea off Ford, so they don't try to pull a fast one on you.  Next car - buy a Toyota or Honda.

You need a better mechanic.  The dealer's mechanics are now just guessing and throwing parts at it.  Find an electrical specialist.

Take a matching nut off the cover and then compare its dimensions at the hardware store.   It is probably metric.  I doubt Ford would have some piece of common hardware like a nut be  so exclusive as to be only available from their parts department.

What is the KAM?

The advice about a bad wire between the coil and PCM came to mind also.  A fault that the PCM can't identify often confuses mechanics. Accurate trouble shooting often requires thinking outside of the proverbial box.   I will be interested in hearing your eventual resolution, as i have a similar situation in a Toyota Sequoia.

Straight anti-freeze does not disperse heat as well as a 50/50 mix.  

Stick with the recommended filter.  Not worth the minimal capacity addition for the risk of leaks/pressure differentials.

I just discovered that someone put on the equivalent of the FL400S oil filter on a 2009 Edge SEL.  This model calls for a FL500S oil filter and the 2 different filters are not compatible.  The FL400S has about a 2mm smaller hole, so it was forced onto the adaptor stem.  My question - is the oil filter adaptor stem on the car likely damaged, as the filter dimensions are different (400 is english increments and 500 is metric).  I don't want to pull the present filter off, only to discover the mounting stem has stripped threads and then nothing fits.  Ford made a serious blunder switching filter applications with the same model year - even most car parts places couldn't distinguish the correct application.  The 400S and 500S filters have different sized holes and the thread pitch is different.