Booger_2021_03_03

On 8/17/2020 at 6:57 PM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

Ugh that sucks.  Motorcraft Specialty Green or Peak universal (now Peak 10x) are best to fill the engine with once repairs are complete.

 

Clean up the area with CFC free brake cleaner if you want and monitor so you can see if this is an active situation.

I also recommend cleaning the area thoroughly and re-evaluating the leak.  

I'm also switching all 4 vehicles that I maintain to Peak 10X.

https://www.engine-codes.com/p1633_ford.html 

I am also curious as to if this has been sitting a while or you forgot to plug something back in...

I don't think that you can really prevent a WP failure.  Now I do check the coolant overflow tank regularly and changed the information display to show engine coolant temperature.

If it goes bad I will park the car in the garage and drive one of my other vehicles while I fix it.  I figure if I can replace a head gasket or lower intake manifold gasket, I can do this was well.

"ENGINE COOLANT OVER TEMP — Displayed when the engine
coolant temperature is excessively high."

I'm looking for the gauge, not the idiot light!

I will look at the google doc, but I figure I might have to use ForScan.

What did you end up doing?

How did you get this gauge to show up on your screen?  I am looking to enable this on a 2011 SEL.

I probably should have added that I ended up replacing the diode pack on the above referenced alternator, and I keep it around as a spare.

I haven't figured out to enable this on this car.  Can I even do this, or do I need ForScan?

I would like to point out that when using a battery tender, connect the negative to a metal part of the car, not the battery.  Normally I would just go to the negative terminal, but in this car if you do that you are bypassing BMS (the sensor on the negative battery cable).  Now if for some reason you want to bypass BMS current monitoring, then yes connect your battery tender directly to the negative battery terminal.

In my case it ended up being the battery.  Replaced the battery and reset BMS in ForScan.  As an alternate, I believe that one can completely turn off BMS in ForScan.

Thanks for the update!!!

On 4/7/2019 at 1:59 AM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

A low mileage Edge, but still, way too early to lose an alternator, unless it was overtaxed by a dying battery.  

I have had this happen on another car.... Ended up installing a high output alternator and used a battery tender.

1985 Escort GT

1995 Escort LX -> I got rid of this car in 2020

2011 Edge SEL

Won't the Group 65 AGM battery that they sell for $150 at WalMart be the best deal going?

Thanks!  Yeah I was thinking about doing just that, but I didn't want to break anything.

Looks like there are two on the bottom.  Found this pic on eBay.

2011 3.5L.

I see two bolts holding the air intake, but there is still something holding the bottom part of the air filter box to something below it, but I don't see any bolts?

Did you reset the BMW when you replaced the battery?

On our 2011 Edge only oil changes, the air filter, battery twice, and one tire because she hit a curb.