McToberson

4 hours ago, Ford Fanatic 28 said:

What if you've already taken it to the dealer and they couldn't fix it?

Well, you'd be qualified to enter the class action suit.  Contact the law firm and they'll set you up

so... i contacted the law firm that is putting the class action thing together... You MUST take your car to Ford with the complaint about the camera, then Ford has to not fix it.  The problem with that is most dealers are booked out a few weeks for service, then you have to leave the car for them to look at it.. it's total bs. It's a widely known fact that there is no fix, and it's widely known that this is a real issue.. but still, you must inconvenience yourself to great lengths, just to get involved in a class action that may not be successful.  I've been involved in a class action with Ford over the transmission in my 2013 fusion titanium... for like 4 years.. 

On 10/15/2021 at 12:09 AM, txaggie said:

Great description of what to do.  I did this tonight on my 2019 ST.  There was NO fabric/stuffing of any kind in the sub enclosure.  I put about a full bag of poly in it.  I think it made a huge difference in the sound coming from the sub.  While I had everything out, I went ahead and coated the bottom under the spare and under the styrofoam bins on the sides with a dynamat type coating.

 

Do you have the B&O sub? Most people have said they used 1/6-1/4 of a 16oz bag of fill.  For my 2021, I ended up using 3/4 of a bag.  I didn't force any in; just added enough where I had a little resistance when pressing on the stuffing.  Where I'm confused is how much we should be adding.  Should the polyfill fill the box, but have zero density, or should there be some density and resistance?  Some pages say you should be using 1-1.5lbs of polyfill per cubic foot..  I've searched the net for the dimensions of the factory sub box but no dice.  I guess I'm taking the enclosure back out again and calculating the cubic volume... ugh.. I hate being an overthinker.  Why am I even thinking about this if it sounded good after install?  Well, it sounded great after install, while sitting in my driveway, but once I got out on the highway the next day, It didn't sound as good as it did after install, especially at higher volumes.  I feel like I may have added too much. 

Just followed this guide and did my 2021 ST. They don’t use a grill on the sub. The side interior panel is the grill. 4 torx screws around the sub and adhesive. Just slowly pry with a trim tool. Sub attached to the car with 2 10mm bolts and one 10mm nut on a long stud. Use a deep socket. There was zero stuffing of any kind inside the enclosure. Cheap paper sub with a surprisingly heavier than expected magnet. There is a small external amp leading to the sub with 4 wires.. I’m guessing you could swap the sub with an aftermarket if you could figure out the wiring, ohms and how many watts the amp puts out? Aside from the differences in the enclosure, the guide was spot on. Bass hits like a real sub now. Deep, full and surprisingly powerful ?

On 9/3/2021 at 9:49 PM, Fritz said:

I put them on my 2021 ST Line and it’s been a nightmare. It looks sharp and sporty but i’m at the point now where i’m having them put back to stock springs next week because I can’t get the bouncing under control. On the highway it feels like i’m in a boat bouncing side to side and it’s a scary feeling. Has anyone had any success? 

Wait.... did you slap an ST badge on an ST Line???

Wow, that's crazy!  I ended up changing mine out a few days ago.  I used a 1/2" breaker bar.. 1/4 turn counter clockwise, 1/8 turn clockwise... took a while but I didn't want to sheer the head off... yes.. bathed in blue loctite.. holy shit that bolt was long.. ? 

This morning while driving home from work, I noticed my car felt sluggish when I went to pass someone.  Needing extra power to complete the pass, I went WOT, which was still sluggish.  Afterwards, I looked down at my Livewire and noticed the ghost needle on the boost gauge never broke 14PSI. With my tune, etc, WOT at those speeds would have easily peaked between 20-22psi.  I data logged another WOT 0-85 - gears 1,2,3 and sure enough, it wasn't the gauge bugging out, it really wasn't getting better than 14PSI.  I emailed the log to Torrie and he told me that the car is adjusting because it detects poor fuel quality. I've got 4100 on the ODO, I drove it home with 6 on the ODO.  The only fuel the car has ever seen is 93oct from SHELL, BP and EXXON, besides the 14th tank of whatever the factory uses for tests and delivery. I'm halfway through a full tank from SHELL this past Thursday, and the first half of the tank was producing the expected amount of power and response.  The only thing I can think of is that we have gotten a lot of rain and humidity in the last week or so.  Has anyone had any issues with water or humidity with the capless fuel inlets? I don't think i ever had an issue with my Fusion that had the capless system.  Any other ideas on what could make the fuel go bad so fast? If so, any suggestions on some sort of dust cover?

I'll bet if someone started a class action on the grounds that Ford sold us a 360 system as an expensive option, and then disabled the features we paid extra for.  Would probably become a priority at that point.  I never let my iphone update automatically, I don't know why I thought letting my car auto update would be a good idea, lol. 

7 hours ago, Perblue said:

 

Good luck, I broke my bolt doing mine, not even a 1" impact would move it. Best advice I've seen is a huge cheater bar, pipe on ratchet, on a good quality breaker bar and keep slowly moving it back and forth. It would suck to do on ramps, a lift is definitely best. The ones who seem to say it's easy are 2018 and younger models, on the 2019 and up they seem to have dipped almost the whole bolt in lock tight. ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS WITH A JACK!

Thanks for the heads up about the excessive loctite, I had a feeling that was the case.  Do you know which color Loctite they used? Hopefully not red. Yes, I always use jack stands if I'm using a jack, I still have a hard time trusting them, too, lol. How did you extract the bolt after you broke it? With that much loctite, I assume you had to drill and tap? 

I made a quick attempt at changing the rear mount yesterday (up mount, came with no instructions). I could not break the 21mm bolt loose with an impact and I didn’t have a breaker bar with me. I assumed I had the car on too much of an angle, applying too much thrust on the mount, holding the bolt in place. Should I be jacking the engine up for the rear mount swap? I’ve read through this thread and a lot of people have given advice. Some say it’s quick and easy, some say you need to do certain additional things. Is it possible to do this on ramps, maybe just partially up the ramp to get enough clearance to slide underneath the car, but not enough to force the engine to rock to such a severe angle? I really don’t like crawling under a car supported by a jack. Especially after experiencing hydraulic failure of a jack a few years ago. Cylinder failed while I was turning around to grab a jack stand.  

Thank you!

Wow, I spent the last couple days reading this thread from beginning to end.  You all really put a lot of time and effort into the research and the search.  Greatly appreciated!  I've been working with Torrie for a while now and I've got my IC, Cold Plugs and 170 T stat sitting on the dining room table, waiting to be installed.  My wife is thrilled, lol.  I'm def going to wait for the install until I get the charge pipe upgrade, which I wouldn't have known to do, if I hadn't read through this thread.  So, thank you all again!  I do have one question about the install... Is there a bumper cover takedown tutorial on here?  I'm an industrial mech, so I can figure it out with a little trial and error, but I'd like to save that time and apply it to the actual install.  Could anyone point me in the right direction?  I saw a dude on youtube bumble through the process to the point of annoyance, and I figured there'd be a better one somewhere on here... just can't seem to find the right search term to pinpoint the thread, if it exists.  21 ST if that matters.  Thank you!

I've got about 200 miles on my 2021 Edge ST AWD and I'm not getting better than 17mpg running 93oct..  Disappointed? Nah, it's an ST.  As long as it performs and is fun, I'll deal with the MPG.  Fair trade.