Ford2504x4

Okay the relay is bad, to make sure ,I jumped terminals #3 & #5 in the fuse box and the windows work. Off to buy new relay.

Thank you @Haz .

I just found this reference to a power roof issue , I do not have prw roof REFER to Section 501-11 to diagnose the inoperative power windows (accessory delay relay circuit Does anyone have this ?

Hi, So I have read the threads on this issue, and did the following testing. 1, tested the main switch, all working with the meter. both sides of all switches work up/down etc . Window lock switch included Power mirror, door locks work 2, checked the following fuses on drivers fuse panel , 1, 3, 15, and the big silver fuse, all are good I think 3, check for continuity of the blue wire from the harness drivers door to the window switch blue , it is good, 4 checked blue wire continuity though the plug, pin to pin is good, no broken wire . 5, applied 12v pwr to the blue wire door side, and windows work as they should. 6, no pwr from the car side from the blue wire. <---!!!! This is the issue I am chasing , and the harness does have pwr from other wires . 7.checked under the hood pwr box ,all fuses good. Rinse and repeated all steps 3 times , still nothing . TopDon code reader shows nothing although I am may not be looking in the right place on the scan tool Watched a few video's and did some searching but found nothing on where to check for. And ideas ?

Just a minor update, the brakes work fine now, I loosed the master cylinder nuts up about 10mm which fixed the issue, it seems the booster push rod is too long. so I am going to see if I find find the specs for the length of the rod, the Edge has been daliy driven with no issues. Merry Christmas all.

Bad news, needed new tires on the car , so got a appointment and on the way , guess what ? Yeah the front brakes started dragging again ?. They are hot and over heated . Really at my wit's end on this. If someone knows of a good Ford mech , let me know . I am going to try to loosen the master cylinder nuts to the booster and see what happens, after that remove the vacuum line to the new booster and see what happens, although if it was the booster all 4 brakes should be hanging up I would think...

Okay , I am glad to finally be able to say this, IT IS FIXED! Good solid brakes. ABS does what it is suppose to. The swapping of the mechanical's of abs unit did work.Thanks for that suggestion, that saved bunch of programing stuff of the VIN etc I put on the 3rd new master cylinder (OEM) and it bleed out properly . . Just a note , when I took off the brake lines to the 2nd new (Dorman Brand) master cylinder , fluid just flowed out of it, so the seals must have been toast from when the shop had it, why they could not see that leaves me questioning their skills , Rotors were with in specs . Yeah I threw a bunch of parts at it , well not really cause I have habit doing calipers, rubber lines, etc every 100k anyways. just never run into a ABS unit issue before. I am guessing the built in proportioning valve for the front brakes in the abs unit was stuck .. I hope all this helps the next person . Thanks to those that commented. ?

@Cerberus Well this was at the primary line (rear)going to the master cylinder that it squired , not at the caliper . The tech said the rotors were within spec , but I will double check for myself to make sure I have a proper gap. The calipers seem to have movement at rest . The new OEM master cylinder showed up to today so I will install it either tomorrow or Sunday . I know it appears I am throwing parts at it but they were aftermarket stuff and not OEM and the quality of after market replacement parts now a days can be very questionable. I just did my 2013 F250 pads and they were not the best fit compared to a couple of years ago, the gold level brake pads would not snap in easily .

Here she sits , all broken down and rejecting the help I have given her... Grrr

Thanks DistractedDev, So this journey continues. Got a ABS unit, sent it to the shop , mind you it had brakes when I drove it just the front start to lock up as I drive it , they swapped the ABS unit , and could not get it to program or activate or do the PIN swap . I told them to swap the electronics, but they were going to charge me again the full rate, Not happening, told them to tow it back to my place, It has no brake pressure at all now . So I did the Electronics swap myself , No codes so far . Went through the whole bleeding procedures , even used a vacuum bleeder , I get a very tiny amount of fluid through the bleeders but no brake pressure build up , hmmm I am guessing the master cylinder is toast (Dormen brand). So I am going to order a brand new Motorcraft master cylinder and rinse and repeat of this whole saga . This is getting very old .... I am glad I have my F250 to drive as well as a Allante . But gas is not cheap and really want my Edge back on the road. I am open to any ideas even ones that suggest to just start drinking.

I suspect that is the issue. I did buy a used one so I hope that it works. Just hope the shop can swap the PIN # so the computer recognizes it.

Got a question, could the rotors be toast from hard braking actions when all this started with a bad booster ? what I am getting at is that they are over expanding when heated up ? I am using the WAG theory (wild ass guess) here Yes I know about warp-age and hot spots .

First off I am not trolling or F'ing with you, go search my user name on FTE under F2504x4 you will know I shoot straight period . I have been a gearhead for to many years. This one has me stumped , I even just replaced the primary brake line from the master cylinder to the ABS unit in case the short flex hose was bad. I have googled my ass off looking for a slimier case like what I am dealing with . Cracking the line at the master is where I got strange result of fluid being push out, it should not be holding any pressure . I could hear the front calipers releasing. Go drive it after several braking actions , calipers are grabbing again. I then cracked the bleed no gush of fluid. So yea it makes no sense. I did buy a used ABS unit as the next step , Yes i am aware of copying the number from the old ABS to the new one the computer will recognize it.

Bump does anyone have any info to offer ?

Took it for a drive and it started to keep the front brakes on after few stop and goes. Verified the rear (primary ) brake line from the ABS to the master cylinder is good , I cracked it open at the abs and it was holding pressure, fluid came out quickly which it should not being doing , I could hear the brake calipers releasing as soon as I cracked it. So I guess it is abs unit replacement time unless someone has any Ideas ?