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Well...the problem came back. I'm going to do a transmission fluid change (3 times) to see if I can fix the issue. I'm also going to go in and delete the transmission adaptive tables with FORScan. I also figured out that one of the tires was two years older than the rest which hopefully didn't cause any of the current issues we're having. We just got a new set of tires the other day. I haven't driven it a ton since this started, but the shifting issue gets better after longer drives and completely goes away after a 15 minute highway drive and then back on surface streets. It also shifts better if you drive more aggressively through the 25-45 mph range. Not exactly sure what this means, but perhaps the transmission fluid is gunked up and gets more fluid as it heats up? In which case less gunked up fluid will help. Fingers crossed! I did some more searching on the internet and it seems like the torque converter (shudder) is a common problem on these transmissions and seems to match the symptoms.

I did a factory reset of the settings and did a software update. This seems to have resolved the problem for the trip around the block. Hoping it stays away! Thanks for the advice of the software update and I did some other reading that the car learns the driving habits and adjusts accordingly. We bought this from my MIL and my son was driving it. Perhaps the car learned the habits of a grandma and had a hard time adjusting to a teenager?

Got the car back from the dealer and no warning lights. However, now it has a "hesitation" going from third to fourth gear. By hesitation, it's almost like the a clutch is slipping or something. With normal acceleration, when it goes to shift, the RPMs will increase, the car will slow down, then it will grab and everything is fine after that. I think it's third to fourth at about 35 mph. It seems to be worse when its cool and gets better after driving for a little bit. After driving for a while the problem seems to go completely away. Clearly not going back to the dealer...at least not the same dealer as above. Should I find a new general shop or a transmission shop? Transmission fluid change? As another note, the dealer did look at the tires and said one of them is considerably more worn than the other three. I guess there is a known issue with tires have different wear. I was planning to look into tires as soon as I got it back, but the transmission slipping has my attention. Any help/insight into what the problem may be would be appreciated!

Update: Frustrated with the dealer. They had the car for over a week with several different folks involved. They first said what I wrote in my previous post, that everything checked out except for A3 (PTU actuator resistance). After 5 days, I was told they got the subframe out, changed the actuator, but were struggling to get the subframe back in. Two days later I called and spoke to a supervisor not about the service, but about it being over a week to do less than a day worth of work and that I couldn't get anybody to call me and give me updates. She was very apologetic and gave the job to another service tech. Then I was told the new tech re-did the inspections and found a corroded wire on the PTU actuator harness and that everything else checked out. They fixed the wire and it was good to go. For my trouble...no charge. Definitely some shady busy going on here. They first reported that they had the subframe out and the actuator changed. Then the new tech said the subframe never came out after I asked about the required alignment after the subframe came out. However, now I have a new issue...

Update: Dealer did the diagnostics and concluded that the PTU actuator is bad citing A3 (>10,000 ohms resistance). They are going to change it out. $750 with the $200 diagnostic. I think the breakout is $200 for diagnostic, $250 for the part, and $300 for labor. Never thrilled with bills like these, but was expecting worse. In retrospect, I think I could have handled this and saved $400-500. Calling it a win for now though. I appreciate the information...to make me an informed customer. The write up I got were not great so I asked questions about A3 and he had to go get the tech who did the work to confirm. I was also expecting a actuator change to include a draining of the PTU, but I guess it bolts to the PTU housing and is not wet with fluid. Not sure what the seal does? Just keep crap out of it? I'll update once we get it back for future reference.

No real explanation for the original TPMS warning. It was parked in our garage while we were at Spring Break for the week. Going from memory, it was 25 psi and the others were 35 psi. I haven't checked them since, but haven't had the warning pop back up either and it's been a couple of weeks. However, the PTU warning seems unrelated to the TPMS warning. Or am I missing something?

Thanks for all of the information! Sounds like a trip to the shop is in order. How urgently do I need to get it in? It sounds like with the actuator motor stalled, the car is either stuck in AWD or FWD all the time. If I switch to the AWD screen on the dash, it shows all 4 wheels as blue. I'm guessing that means the PTU is stuck in AWD mode all the time? Correct me if I'm wrong, but it doesn't sound like I need to stop driving it immediately and take it to the shop tomorrow. My son drives it to school and home several times a day (maybe 50 miles a day and no more than 10 miles from home). I have some work travel coming up week after next so will plan on getting it in then.

I'm seeing lots of issues with the PTU regarding no drain plug, fluid changes, etc. However, not a lot on the actuator itself. Is the actuator in the PTU? I'm guessing it is, so likely need a whole new PTU? We've been driving it and (other than the AWD malfunction light) wouldn't notice anything wrong (no sounds/smells/etc).

2019 Ford Edge ST Turbo 2.7L

After I reset the AWD DTC, I started it back up and the same code came up. However, it has not switched the indicator light on. So it seems like it's going to come back after we drive it.

I received the recommended USB adapter, found the DTC, and reset it. Here's the code and additional details. I also attached a picture of the screen for even more details: Code: C0090 - 4WD/AWD Power Transfer Unit Actuator Additional Fault Symptom (:-18): -Circuit Current Below Threshold I'll do some additional research on this code. Sounds like I need to replace the AWD Power Transfer Actuator. How hard is that to do myself? Is there any issue continuing to drive it until I get it fixed?

Ordered the recommended USB adapter. How do I "clear the DTCs from the AWD module"? That's where I'm stuck at the moment. I assume I need the USB adapter to do this? We've continued to drive it without any issues.

Thanks for the reply! I have an el cheapo OBD2 scanner and don't get any codes: https://www.amazon.com/ANCEL-AD310-Enhanced-Universal-Diagnostic/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.b747a510-73a1-4cf4-a45b-74fc1ab8af95%3Aamzn1.sym.b747a510-73a1-4cf4-a45b-74fc1ab8af95&cv_ct_cx=obd2+dongle+forscan&hvadid=725841564141&hvdev=c&hvexpln=67&hvlocphy=9015812&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=17226922833890435540--&hvqmt=b&hvrand=17226922833890435540&hvtargid=kwd-2385225293896&hydadcr=6388_13390662&keywords=obd2+dongle+forscan&mcid=185d8463bea6309999e1499a76cc7e37&pd_rd_i=B01G5EA74I&pd_rd_r=49840cad-6cbc-4ec2-b1f1-d7de65722e4e&pd_rd_w=N31ds&pd_rd_wg=ma4kM&pf_rd_p=b747a510-73a1-4cf4-a45b-74fc1ab8af95&pf_rd_r=SP2MGEJ6TZYDQRWWNQ2E&qid=1744643548&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=1-1-6024b2a3-78e4-4fed-8fed-e1613be3bcce-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1 I'm completely open to buying a OBD2 dongle, but can you help me with what exactly to buy. Just to confirm, this is a wireless device that plugs into the OBD2 port and I connect wirelessly to my iPhone? Like this?: https://www.amazon.com/TOPDON-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Performance-Bidirectional/dp/B0C3QQYQ1B/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.oSZcGr4VWn2_jjxpg3u0MHdHiDsZNns4gwmmZxl-iAYqCBbVT-DOtbbi6s77uyIvzwU6_wAzNjA_Xv2EnxDHp-9L6AZc8m9ne-_5KP3aq57IjPB2HFGL7gRwfqwwHjpDNyfu3tcdj_lWoBdy5aNVWPX7wS2QKehooQecUyjhNgbt_rcTw4Kl6YOOqnns8W1IDMf2Xkn56gmUiVy5s1xWbYt32hbhveNzGeoLPb7sl8mYu54FwKxwPIKY4OzPVUnpIvqM4t3BLsNAdirnRveGmQbUk9AH7AYENMwFChuI99w.ePVmBlIWinRSNo7txHBQBtdu-c8aRRMArQkb9KdIesE&dib_tag=se&hvadid=725841564141&hvdev=c&hvexpln=67&hvlocphy=9015812&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=17226922833890435540--&hvqmt=b&hvrand=17226922833890435540&hvtargid=kwd-2385225293896&hydadcr=6388_13390662&keywords=obd2+dongle+forscan&mcid=185d8463bea6309999e1499a76cc7e37&qid=1744643548&sr=8-22-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1

Hello all! I have 2019 Edge ST with 124,000 miles that we just got from my in laws. We went on vacation for a week and it sat. We came home to a low driver side rear tire (25 psi) warning. I put air in it and the low tire message went away, but immediately had the "AWD Malfunction Service Required" for the past week. The car seems to be driving the same, but I can't get rid of the message. I tried my OBD reader (cheap Amazon one) and no codes. I tried unplugging the battery for ~15 minutes (positive only) and that didn't get rid of it. I stopped by Autozone and they said their reader wouldn't be able to tell them anything either. The only option left (that I can think of) is to take it to a dealer and have them look. I'm not a fan of that because they always find things $2000-3000 in things that need repaired regardless of what I bring it in for. It seems like the AWD message is related to the low tire message since they happened at the same time. Is there a way for me to remove/reset the AWD message? My intent would be to see if it comes back. Anything else that I should check before taking it in? Since it appears to be driving fine, should I be concerned about driving it? The tires are also close to needing replaced and have read that might be the issue as well. Do I really need to go to a dealer for this? Thanks in advance!