HackerF15E

On 1/5/2014 at 5:33 PM, akirby said:

Just move the jack a little so you have room next to it for the stands.

How's that supposed to work?

If you put the jack on the jack point, the stand is a good 6 inches away from the actual jack point.  If you try and jack at a point away from the arrow, you end up bending the pinch weld seam.

I'd love to hear how this turned out for you -- I'm looking to make the same type of swap.

Anyone also replace their coils while they had the intake off and were doing the plugs?

How did this issue turn out, CoastGuardian?

I've gotten 65K on the OEM Latitude Tour HPs on my 2008, driven a mix of city and highway, almost all in the plains states in all seasons. They could go even more, as they pass the "Lincoln penny" test, but are starting to get squirrely in the rain.

Hi everyone, I am going to attempt changing the serpentine belt on my 2008 Edge SEL AWD but wanted to see if anyone has any pointers. I looked up under the engine area and it looks awful tight. Does anyone have a diagram of where the tensioner is or the easiest way to get to it to release the belt tension? Also, there is a smaller belt on the backside of the main pulley. Should I replace that as well and how dificult is that one? I have pretty good mechanic skills and tools but would like to know what I'm getting into ahead of time. Thanks for a reply!

When you do this, would you be so kind as to take photos and post your lessons learned?

Thanks for the update!

Yep, that'd work too.

Here's the schematic of the cooler system; I'm not sure which is the supply line and which is the return line, I don't have my Edge in front of me to check. In the shop manual, the line on the driver's side (right side of the cooler in this picture) is labeled as the "return tube", and the line on the passenger side (left side in this pic) is labeled the "outlet tube". Not sure how to decipher that, as they both sound like the flow is out, heheh.

Ok. Will be interesting to compare to the technique recommended here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12917-2009-edge-sel-awd-transmission-plan/

In my opinion, it is better to use the technique in the video.

All the other thread recommends is a series of drain-and-fills, with starting the car up and running it through the gears (to circulate the fluid) between drain-and-fills. There's certainly nothing wrong with that, but IMHO it wastes ATF and is not as "clean" of a changeover. Essentially it is repeatedly diluting dirty fluid with clean fluid, with the overall solution getting less and less dirty every time new fluid is added.

By disconnecting the lines to the cooler, you are mixing a lot less of the "old" and "new" ATF (because the "old" fluid is not returning into the system at all), and that makes it a cleaner change with comparatively less fluid.

Think about it...how many times do you have to dilute a glass of muddy water to make it clean?

The reality is, though, that any replacement of fluid with clean fluid will help. Both techniques will work, it is just a question of how clean and how much fluid it takes.

Realize that a "drain and fill" on an automatic transmission does NOT change all of the fluid. In fact, the majority of the fluid in an AT is up in the torque converter and other locations that don't drain when you just take out the drain plug.

So, you have to un-do the line going to the transmission cooler (in front of the bottom of the radiator), then little-by-little start the car, drain a little fluid from that line, then stop the car, and put fresh fluid in the filler tube. Keep doing this until the fluid coming out that hose is clean and red. Then reconnect the hoses, start it up and shift through all the gears, then top off the ATF level.

Watch this video -- which is a Honda Accord, but the concept is exactly the same -- and adapt the procedure to the Edge. This has worked for every other Auto Trans vehicle I've owned.

I haven't done it on the Edge, but I'm going to soon. I'll take photos and document the adventure when I can.

The way that car electronics are going, aftermarket radios and nav systems will make you want to change your MFT here in a few years.

I have a 2008 and was impressed with Sync when it originally came out. Today that Sync is pretty outdated (and is no longer being updated/supported by Ford), and I can buy a much better radio from the aftermarket for not really all that much $$.

On my other vehicles, I've had to run the car with the heater on to help access all of the coolant running through the engine block.

Is that maybe the source of the "missing" coolant?

Recommend you do some reading about TB spacers before you actually drop the money to buy one.

In general they don't do anything.

Thanks for that attachment.

Anyone know of any physical upgrades that can be made to the system? I figured that this many years down the line, someone would find a bigger fan or something to help it along. I was hoping that in subsequent model years, they'd fix the A/C problem, and that those improved parts from the 09, 10, 11, 12 model years would retrofit back into the '08.

Also interested to know of any way to improve airflow to the back -- the kids barely get any airflow back there for themselves.

I was able to get the status checker to work back in late 2009 or early 2010...but that's about it. I hate it when a legacy system like this gets no support. Bad move, Ford. This isn't an old cell phone that gets used up and thrown away when a new one comes out -- we're going to be driving these cars for years to come.

I wish that someone would come up with some kind of aftermarket support for this, sort of like a jailbreak or something.

I'm interested in a copy of 8p or 9p... if you have one please email me cjp25428@yahoo.com

If you torrent, here's a link:

<link deleted - use google or PMs>

If you are a Bit Torrent type of guy, there is an 8P torrent currently on one of the more popular BT sites. Google is your friend.

Looks great....hope you're being tongue-in-cheek about the anti-radar part.

Why charging for bootleg copies?

I am a big fan of the Michelin Latitude Tour HPs on my '08. Very quiet and grippy for a road/truck tire.

Wouldn't a aftermarket CAI, T/B spacer, new air K&N air filter help out with the gas mileage?

Throttle body spacer = snake oil

The theory that they work on (supposedly improving atomization of fuel) is ridiculous when taken in the larger context. The normal fuel injection process is all ready 99+% efficient, so the most "improvement" you could possibly get out of this (or any other gadget like the "tornado" or what-not) would be 1%.

Besides, in the days of CAFE (e.g. the last 20-30 years) if it were "this easy" to improve the mileage of a car, don't you think that car manufacturers would be doing it (because it would benefit them immensely if they could)?

More than one automotive forum I read have actually performed controlled tests of this sort of thing with no provable, re-creatable improvements to fuel efficiency. One of the magazines (Pop Sci or the like) also recently did a sorta-scientific test of several "fuel saver" methods and found that none worked to any degree that warranted the cost spent on the methods.

it is over run by Europeans. They really take their GPS seriously in Europe.

I just came from living in the UK for the last several years, and you're right -- it's a whole other level over there. To be honest, it's the best way to navigate in Europe, since the road and signage systems don't really match how it's done in the States. A GPS unit can really be a life saver -- it made me a believer over there, to be sure.

I had the same thought, hence that I edited the post.

I figured that if it met with any objection, that a mod could just remove it.

Do you happen to have that volume name?