Blivit

Nobody's disassembled the aftermarket modules that I know of. I guess you would have to get a failed one to not pay out the wazoo.

It would be interesting to dissect these things. Unfortunately that isn't in the cards for me. The car is fixed and back with the new owner; my edge time appears to be done.

I would also like to point out, the second aftermarket unit I bought (both from Amazon...same part number on both) had 2010+ Edge on the box (didn't notice that until later.) The module itself also had a different part number from the one I removed from the vehicle. Either way, they both had failed but it appears things had changed.

It was the module. Motorcraft unit fixed it. It wasn't that I didn't trust or believe what was said here, I just couldn't justify the price difference.

I suppose I got lucky with my initial aftermarket unit lasting 2.5 years. The replacement I bought (same brand) was DOA. The shop it was taken to also tried an aftermarket unit (unsure of brand) which was also DOA. Thankfully the shop worked with us and didn't charge us for that unit or any of the labor.

Did you change the whole fans & module or only the module? If only the module, maybe the issue is from the fans?

Both times it was the entire assembly as I haven't found just the module.

Did you install a MotorCraft fan assembly?

No, aftermarket. TYC brand, same that I put in 2.5 years ago that had no issues. I am not sure what the shop put in.

I know aftermarket is frowned upon.

Back with an update....not fixed yet.

Ordered and installed a new module, same as last time...still doing the same thing; fan does not shut off. I did what I could to help but threw in the towel and had her take it to a shop. Even when we told them a new module didn't fix it, they too thought that was the issue. So they ordered one as well, installed it, didn't fix it big surprise. At this point they think it's the pcm but are running more tests.

They can run after engine shutdown if the engine is too hot. See how long they run - if it's only a couple of minutes it's normal - check the coolant level.

Thank you. Coolant level is fine and it has stayed on long enough to completely drain the battery.

Long time reader....seldom post....

I had a 2007, FWD with 170k miles at this point. It was the wifes daily driver until last week when we donated it to a friend that needed a vehicle. It was always great to us and I took good care of it and it never had any major problems.

2.5 years ago, the radiator cooling fan stopped working. I bought an aftermarket complete assembly, installed it and that fixed the issue and everything was fine for 2.5 years, even here in Florida. Last week, after giving the car to our friend, the fan kicked on the next day and wouldn't shut off, even after removing the key from the ignition. The only way to shut it off was to pull the fuse or disconnect the battery. AC works fine still regardless and the temp gauge reads normal.

She lives close and I told her I would continue to help maintain it within reason. I checked the voltage at the connector going into the control module and it's constant 12-14v across the black and red (engine off vs engine on) and switched 0-12v across the black and middle wire (green?) when the ac is off vs on. This seems to be correct which tells me the module has failed. Seem plausible? I know these assemblies have issues and aftermarket seems to be frowned upon..but the price was right for my purpose. The one I purchased lists that it has a "lifetime warranty" so I know if I work on it, I can probably get it a new one, I just don't want to go through with that if it may be something else.

Thoughts?

My strategy code is as follows:

 

KNCN4AU

I think I know now why you had issues at Steeda.

I mentioned before that we have support for the 2011 but that there may be codes in our system that are not correct or are just not in our database yet. Your particular code currently has errors. What that means is that certain items in our database of your strategy are not mapped correctly. The mapping does appear to be correct in the strategy prior to yours. If the mapping is incorrect and a tune is made based off that, certain checksum values will be incorrect. When checksum values are incorrect, vehicles either will not start or start but will run poorly.

There are a few options:

1. wait for us to correct your current strategy. I am not sure how long this will take but it depends on how similar your newer strategy is to the strategy that was prior to it.

2. when you have your vehicle programmed, have the program built on the older strategy. In most cases this is fine, but sometimes the newer vehicles do not like being backdated like this.

Johnny in sales talked to me about a guy in south carolina who had a brand new model 3015 for sale that he ordered and was never picked up. No i did not purchase a tune file for the device! I am currently looking for a place to tune here in south florida, besides steeda. Do you know of any dealers that can tune either here or in orlando area?

I should have some more info for you today. I am having one of my employees try a few things today with a local dealer. When you do receive your device, please use it to read vehicle info and let me know what your strategy code currently is.

Its about a 3 hour drive but i am willing to make the drive if this can be done over a weekend or a couple of days at most! I ordered the device from a dealer and should have it within a day or so. Who can i speak to over there to see what i need to do from here for you once i receive it?

We are only open M-F 8-5 as we are not a retail business (this is why our dealer network exists.) My intent for asking if you were close was to have you come by where we could use our in-house equipment to read strategy info as well as flash to determine if there are any issues flashing the 2011 (none that I am currently aware of.) Then if there were any issues we could then take the data and fix it. 3 hours 1 way is a bit far to drive for that.

What dealer did you purchase from and did you purchase a tune file along with the device?

i need an x3 shipped to me because steeda never gave me that one! Can i order one from the website?

I am not sure how far wellington is from us in Sanford. If you are close, you can stop by here and we can read the strategy, flash the car and see if there are any issues (you would still need to go to steeda or one of our other dealers for an actual tune and device to purchase however.)

the pcm for my vehicle is zjm3

 

I spoke with daniel at sct sales and he told me you have software for it on the xcalibrator is that correct or not? if correct do you know where i can get a custom program for it?

Can you use your X3 to read the strategy of the vehicle? Sometimes what is actually programmed in the pcm does not match what is shown on the pcm sticker. This may be what happened with you and steeda. If you only gave them the 4 digit code from above that was read from the sticker they created the tune from that code. If that is not what is actually programmed in the processor then that can cause issues.

Yes the X3 supports the edge through custom tuning only.

Then I guess Brian lied. Oh, and Justin said you can't use a Livewire on an '11, either.

Who are Justin and Brian? Correct on the livewire though. Only the X3+ and TSX/iTSX can be used on the 2011.

I went directly to steeda! I need someone who has written a program for it or who can write a program for it so i can order and and get it done!

Do you happen to know the strategy of your vehicle? You can use the X3 to read this under the vehicle info menu.

SCT doesn't support the car yet.

Not true. We do support the 2011 but there are some codes that we do not yet have in our database. It is custom tune only however.

A chip is not going to get you any help while towing. Chips get you more HP at WOT conditions at high rpm. Even a 15hp chip is going to result in maybe 1-2hp at the low rpm medium load conditions that you find when towing. It's not going to be enough to make a difference. You're just going to have to live with the higher rpms, that's the way the car was designed, so don't worry about it.

 

FWIW my Miata runs 3800rpms in top gear at 75mph without any trailer at all.

I respectively disagree. We are talking about flash tuning here and not a "chip" (chips have not been used on ford vehicles since 2004; they all require reflashing the processor.)

For the Edge you would be looking at a custom tune/flash meaning it could be set up for any combination. Low end power/torque can be raised while upper end left alone along with altering the shift points and pressures; all of that most certainly will help with towing.

What kind of gains can you expect with the off the shelf tunes? Do you have any dyno results? I wouldn't think you'd get much maybe around 10-15hp??

Average gains with just a basic tune on a naturally aspirated gas engine are in the 10 hp range. Diesel will gain much much more as will factory super or turbocharged vehicles. I don't recall what year was dyno'd here (believe it was an 08) but I believe that Edge picked up 15 or so horsepower. That was with the addition of a 93 octane and a tune to go along with it.

I have a 2011 AWD Limited. Does anyone make a chip/tuner for this engine yet? I called SCT, Superchips and Diablo. None of them have anything and have no working plans to make anything as of yet, according to them.... I need a few more horsepower for towing. I have a small 6x12 enclosed trailer that weighs approx 2000 pounds loaded. As soon as I get on the highway, it falls on its face at around 55-60 mph. I tried using the manual shifting and it won't maintain speed even at 65 in 5th gear.4th gear, yes, but I don't like rev'ing out at 3800 rpm. I guess the frontal surface area is causing the resistance, not necessarily the weight because around town it does just fine. Another 50-75 horsepower would be nice. Any suggestions?? I went on Ford's website and it suggests not towing anything with a frontal surface area of greater than 30 square feet. I'm at 36 square feet.

 

Thanks!

Do you know who you spoke with at SCT (I work for SCT...) We do support the 2011 but not all. If you can get me your processor code (look for the processor itself, under the hood passenger side firewall...4 digit code something like EVY6) I can tell you for sure if yours can be tuned.

However, you will NEVER gain 50-75 hp on a gasoline naturally aspirated vehicle with just a tune.

im shocked that you cant monitor trans temp...

Why? The average gasoline vehicle user has no need or desire to view that; especially on the Edge. For the diesel market because of towing, it is included. As stated too, you can use our datalogging software to setup your own file from thousands of parameters.

do you know what can be viewed through the TSX.. debating on that or the edge CTS...

The included files will allow for the basics:

-battery voltage

-ect

-iat

-fuel pump duty cycle

-pressure drop across injectors

-load

-fuel trims (short and long term)

-maf counts

-spark

-throttle position

-vehicle speed

You can also use our livelink software (which is free) to create your own file to log many more items.

I know most of the people that are tuning their Edge are using a SCT X3 or SF3... now i was wondering if anyone has used the TSX and if so how do they like it?

 

i have always liked being able to read all my temperatures in real time... thats why im thinking of getting one but hate having to suction cup it to the windshield...

 

so im thinking of making a custom en-closer that would fit in that small section right above the radio on the dash... i never use it and i feel it would look pretty good there ....

 

what do you guys think?s

The TSX works perfectly fine on the Edge but there are a few things to consider:

-All of our devices (X3, Livewire) will also monitor the vehicle in real time. The only difference is the screen and not having a cable with the TSX.

-The screen portion of the TSX uses a battery that will need to be recharged so if you do mount it, keep that in mind. We do include a usb charger that could be hard wired.

I don't think that having a regular tube size with a standard K&N Cone Filter is going to change things by very much in the amount of extra air that the engine is sucking in, but I may be able to get my Ford guys to check and do a diagnostic just to see where we are on things (especially since I now have the G-Force chip added and running Excellent).

 

I finally got to talk to the Technical guys at G-Tech and they did tell my how their programmed chip works and how it controls the engine and ECU, while (they say) keeping things totally safe and with-in warranty specs.

 

Here Goes: The tech said that the chip is always turned on, by running on the voltage level that is coming from the AIT sensor that would be connected to the ECU down line, but we have tapped inbetween this connection (between the ECU and the AIT sensor). The Chip only needs a low amount of voltage to run and stay turned on, as the AIT line supplies the voltage for the chip to stay "ON" even though the AIT line varies up & down in voltage, based on the volume and temperature (and maybe the humidity level I am not sure) of the air running past it.

 

It normally is going from a lower voltage to a higher voltage, based on that, plus humidity, I think, and then the ECU makes changes to its programmed controls from seeing these higher or lower voltage levels from the AIT sensor.

 

Now, the chip has been programmed specifically for my 2011 Sport Edge 3.7 Engine, to change these voltage limits to actually go higher or lower than the factory spec levels, but not always, as it is active and does change and vary, based on the voltage levels that are coming into the chip, from the AIT sensor.

 

The main techician at G-Force Chips, told me that the voltage sent on from their chip to the ECU will differ, based on what the sensor is sending it, and it will be different under varying conditions. He said that if it were hot and humid outside, the chip will send out, say, a higher voltage than normal or stock, once the temperature has reached a certain temperature level, otherwise, it may just stay idle and not send the higher voltage to the ECU, than the stock voltage level. If the air outside was cold and dry, the chip may send a lower than normal voltage level to the ECU. If the temperature and humdity were say, in mid range, the chip may run a medium level, or it may not, based on my engine type and the programming from Ford, for my ECU type, (that Ford put in my Engine design).

 

They say that they have it actively changing output to the ECU and being raised to the higher end of the Warranty spec range when the engine is under load, or when being pushed to higher RPM's, or harder gas pedal pressure, while it is actually shutting down and lowered to a lower setting than stock Ford settings, when not needing the extra power level setting, when I am just gliding along on a flat highway at a resonable speed, and not needing the extra OOMF.

This gives me better gas mileage when cruzing, but it also seems that with the extra OOMF setting, it doesn't use as much gas, as it seems to run really smooth, really, really smooth, even when giving it a little extra exceleration run. It is now much smoother than stock.

 

They say that the ECU, having the new levels high and low, from this sensor line, makes the ECU re-program itself and then,......OH MY G--D! The car runs like a G--D Damn Race Car, when you give it a little extra push and run it up to top end (or not)! The shifts are smooth and precise, and the control to the tiny-est amount of giving the gas peddle a little more or a lttle less, is like dialing in 50x precise settings on the gas pedal! Even if I change the amount on the gas pedal, while the car is taking off, the control lets off exactly by the small degrees that I control. I AM REALLY IMPRESSED at how well the car drives now.

 

Earlier in the week, I had the wrong pin-out location and have now fixed it according to the factory MAF, ECU, wiring diagram for my 2011 Sport 3.7 Engine.

 

My car is now amazing even with the AWD, glass roof, extra 440 Lbs. or so, ....IT is Really Fast! I think it would beat a lot of cars out there on the street and definately any STOCK FORD EDGE front wheel drive.

 

It feels like I have added 40-50 HP. with the Intake and this one little $69 added change. JUST AMAZING! I will see if my Ford guys will do a diagnostic on it, just to make sure that it is all safe, but the guys at G-Force, claim that they have programs for most cars out there, just about, and that the limits and outputs, as well, as the effects that they control, have all been programmed to allow the car to a higher limit when it needs more OOMF and then higher limits on running with lower settings when running with less fuel, when it doesn't need the extra OOMF.

 

Blivitt, I would love it if you would buy one and try it, and then, measure all the things that you know about, with the safety needs for these engines, to see if it all is really working in safe ranges and doing what they say it is doing.

 

You know I drive a Nissan GTR 2010 as a daily driver and I know what a good OOMF is when you press down on the gas (handling too). This Edge Sport 2011 has woken up! It is pretty quick, and drives great so far, smoother than it did, with no bucking or dogged out limping off the line from a light, as it did now and then when stock, for what-ever reason.

 

It took about 100-miles, just as they predicted, for the ECU to re-program to these new allowed levels and WHAM! It turned on, all-of-a-sudden! Just like that, It ran like a whole different car and engine. It was running pretty good before that with the chip now correctly installed, but it noticably woke up and smoothed out even better at around that 100-mile mark or so.

 

The only thing the Sport Edge needs, to finish it off, will be a good set of brakes and discs, to match the power and performance. I think 13" discs, 8piston-calipers, might finish it off to being a great driving safe car with great brakes. I may add the HDI lights too, we will see.

 

I will let you know if we get the diagnostics run on the engine to try to see what we have now, but really, spend the $69 and test it. You can remove it and return it later if you wish.

 

I had all of this great increase in engine performance this week on regular gas, and I now get 24 MPG @ 70 MPH and 28 MPG @ 65 MPH. (I was getting 23 MPG @ 65 MPH stock), all driving on Flat Florida Highways.

 

I got 18 MPG in traffic (I was getting 16-17 MPG stock) and I was running the gears up a lot this week to top end, to test it, over and over (18 MPG doing all this all week long).

I got 22 MPG around suburban areas, where before I was getting less, like 18-20 MPG stock, if I was really careful on the gas, and trying to get good mileage.

 

The air intake helped a lot too, (it also seemed to re-program the ECU at around 60-80 miles of use,and then ran really good with getting better mileage and more OOMF).

 

Adding this chip, though,....WOW! THis car is losing nothing by being a heavier AWD Sport, and I am telling you, it feels like another 40-50 HP.

 

I may go get it dyno'ed, if everything checks out in the safe zones as needed with diagnostics.

I've already explained how this chip works and why it is garbage. Search on any other car forum where people ask about these same chips and anyone with any intelligence on how an engine works or how ecu control is done will say the same thing.

No offense to you but I would not install one on my lawn mower (if it had a computer and iat sensor.)

If you're happy, great. I am not going to waste my time any more.

About the intake, again the computer can compensate for 25% fuel and will do so without throwing a light. I can all but guarantee that you are running lean but probably within that 25% threshold.

You may want to log your fuel trims to see how they have been affected by the intake. Intakes like that will typically lean the afr mixture due to the increased airflow. The factory computer is able to compensate +/- 25% but ideally you want that compensation to be as small as possible for optimal efficiency.

The edge may not be as prone to changes in airflow causing problems but many new fords that are drive by wire (like the edge) are.

Hey guys and gals, this is my first post.

 

I bought my wife a 2008 mkx limited and i started to look for a programmer for the car and found the X3 programmer for it, i have used the x3 in my 04 dodge hemi and my TT 427 gto so i know it works good but i was unsure about for her car.

 

I also hooked up my wideband on her mkx to see what the a/f was as i know it was running rich and at 4000rpm it runs 11.1.. way to rich lots of power to be had and more mpg..

 

I dont have a problem running 93 octane, the car will never get about 3000 rpms with her driving it and she drives alot for work so i want more mpg.. i saw the ebay CAI i will be buying that.

 

i saw a post by this guy about the x3

 

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?/topic/2565-sct-x3-power-and-flash/

 

any truth to that?

 

let me know, if it works i will buy it now

Read around here a bit as there are already a few posts about the X3 on the Edge. I won't say much as I do work for SCT but we are the only aftermarket tuning company that supports the Edge/MKX.

Why would you start messing around with performance chip. All the gained horse power is a scam .....

You guys are crazy ....

Hard to tell if this is sarcasm...