zenlakin

Hello all. I am pretty new to the forums and my wifes 2007 MKX just hit 60,000 miles and I was curious what some of you other fellow MKX members recommend for items that are actually needed to be serviced? As we all know, if I go to the dealership I am likely to get hit with a large number of items that need to be serviced which may or may not be the case and will likely walk out of there with a $1,000 quote to get everything done.

The grinding started no more than 1 day after the rotors and pads were replaced with brand new parts...

It only makes the grinding sound when applying the brakes and it doesn't happen right away. The grinding actually happens just before I am about to come to a full stop.

Anyone have any experience with Raybestos rotors??

The edge brake system transmits the grinding sound thru the suspension,this has been discussed many times,do a search,after sitting a day or so this happens and goes away after a few stops,my 2010 Limited has 24,000 miles is in need of a front rotor because of slight pulsation,the choice was Motorcrap $65. or centric for $ 84,I am leaning toward the latter,Marty

Thanks for the response. Marty in response to your reply I guess I should specify that my wifes car has the opposite issue. When her car has been sitting for a while or while it is cool I don't have the grinding issue. But once I have been driving the car for a little bit is when the grinding begins. And it gets worse the more I drive it. But then if I let the car sit for a couple of hours after it has been grinding and I assume has a chance to cool down, the grinding isn't present again until I have been driving the car for a little bit and then it comes back. I am assuming there is some sort of cooling issue that the rotors and/or pads are not able to cool enough while driving and that is what causes the grinding??

We will be at the dealership this week so I'll have them take a look at it.

Miller07: I wanted to see what news you ended up getting from the dealer about the grinding brakes...

My wife has a 2007 MKX that started making a grinding sound from the brakes. It was getting annoying so my wife took it to one of the local service shops near our home and they said that the rotors and pads needed to be replaced in the front. So we had them change them out and shortly after the repairs my wife began to hear and feel the grinding again in the brakes. We took it in again and they said that my wife was braking too hard and that it was bending the rotors!! So they replaced the rotors and the pads one more time under warranty and I drove the vehicle for about a week and made EXTRA sure that I was never braking hard and after about a week the grinding is back!! I have no idea what to do other than look at replacing the rotors and pads myself with some higher quality parts possibly?? I was looking at getting some Brembo rotors and green stuff pads as I have heard those are excellent quality and people have been having good luck with that setup. Can anyone comment on my issue and if they know of a valid resolution? Additionally, if I am to replace the rotors and pads myself, does anyone have any installation instructions that I could look over as this would be the first time I have done anything like this. Thanks in advance!!

If the pressure went to zero, it sounds like the valve was closed.

 

1. 
    
   
2. With the hose assembly disconnected from the vehicle, retract the can piercing needle on the valve turning counter-clockwise. This will allow you to attach the can to the valve without piercing it. This is also the valve's open position.
   
3. Attach the can to the valve.
   
4. Attach the connector to the low port.
   
5. Turn the valve completely clockwise to pierce the can. This is the closed position and will not release refrigerant.
   
6. Turn the valve counter-clockwise again to release the refrigerant.
   
7. With the valve facing up, agitate the can slowly by rotating it 90 degrees. The can will get very cold as refrigerant is released.
   
8. The gauge will waver depending on whether the compressor is running.
   
9. When done, if the can is not empty, turn the valve completely clockwise to the closed position.
   
10. Release the connector from the low port.
    
11. Store the can with the hose assembly attached with the valve in the closed position.
    

I am going to try it again when it cools down but I have already gone through those steps and the can is already pierced and all of that good stuff but when I attach it to the low port on the car it seems as though nothing is happening. The can doesn't get cold, the pressure gauge doesn't change at all. I ensured that the piercing valve was turned all the way counterclockwise and still nothing. And right now when I get in the car and turn on the AC there is no cold air coming out what-so-ever....

The low pressure port is under the wiper cowling on the passenger side near the firewall. There are a number of how-to videos on the web.

 

Here's a good series of videos: http://www.ehow.com/video_2328375_tools-recharge-auto-ac-system.html

Thanks guys. I did find the port. Now I am having an issue with pressure. I followed the directions on the can and I first checked that I had pressure so I turned the valve off and started the car, let it run for 3 minutes like the instructions said, then I connected the can to the port and it showed that there was pressure.

Next I started opening up the valve like the instructions said and then the pressure went to zero and now it doesn't appear that the can is pushing any of the fluid to the AC system. I also tried disconnecting and reconnecting the can to the low pressure port and there is no sound or pressure or anything.

Any suggestions??

I have a 2007 lincoln mkx that I want to recharge the AC and the recharge kit I have doesn't fit to the port that I see under the hood on the front passenger side. Is this the port I should be using or is the refill port somewhere else?? The port I am speaking of on the car is too big and the coupler on the AC recharge kit won't fit around it...