Mattmilw

My writeup above describes the steps I took to restore the cluster compass. While restoring it wasn't my primary goal, since the new mirror's compass works great, it's what I had to do to kill the compass not working message and beep.

I think I still have the wiring information. I am traveling until next week. When I return, i'll send you the info I have.

Please re-read my entry above.

It details what I did to stop the warning message from appearing in the instrument cluster that you are asking about.

Matt

I'm having this exact issue as well. I bought my mirror through my dealer and had them install in today. It seems that the factory installed compass, is what its referring to. My mirror is working 100%, they said they are going to call Ford and see what they recommend.

 

I wonder if the vehicle and mirror are using the same wire for the compass. If so wouldn't it be pretty simple to splice to wires into one lead? I could care less if I have 2 compasses as long as this issue goes away.

I did find a solution, though it's more than most would go through. I dismantled the factory mirror (which I no longer had a use for) and removed the circuit board inside. I was able to get hold of the wiring diagram for it, and figured out the pins for power and compass + and compass -. The circuit board was too large to stash in the headliner, so I relocated it under the dash. I spliced into the necessary wires up under the dome lights, and ran an extension wire under the dash. I put some female pins (Radio Shack) on the end and connected them to the proper pins on the circuit board. I held my breath and started it up. No smoke, no error message, no chime, just a working compass in the message center. Life is good, and I really like having the temp and compass on the mirror.

I replaced my mirror, as you are doing. After reading other posts of people breaking their windshields, I decided not to attempt it. I found a local place that did window tinting, and asked if they'd remove it for me, which they did for no charge. I watched them do it, and, if I had to do it again, I still wouldn't try it. He used a kind of bent tipped screw driver and put a towel between the windshield and the screwdriver, and used the windshield as a fulcrum to compress the spring.

I had a couple of issues from there. I have a 2010 SEL. The SYNC microphone is in the mirror, as well as the electronics for the OEM compass that reads out by the odometer. I don't used SYNC, so losing the Mic wasn't an issue. The replacement mirror has a compass so that wasn't an issue either. The problem was, with the OEM mirror disconnected, I would get a warning chime and a check compass message when I start it up. I found a workaround to stop the warning chime, so life is good. I really like having the temp readout in the mirror.

I bought a Gentex mirror with compass and temperature to upgrade the mirror in my 2010 SEL. With the plug removed from the factory mirror, I get a "Compass No Reponse" message in the info display. I can hit reset and it clears, but it returns when the car is started again.

I thought others had done this mod, but I can't find anything in search. Has anyone encountered this, and is there a work around?

Could you be a little more specific about your AM fix? I have an aftermarket Sony with Sirius in my 2007 SE AWD and AM is almost non-existent. Not that I miss it much but it would be nice to have sometimes.

When I initially wired the 2 harnesses together, I did not connect the blue wires. The blue wire in the Metra harness was labeled Power antenna. The blue wire in the Pioneer harness was labeled System Control. When I powered the HU up, the FM was fine but the AM was very faint and full of static. Per Crutchfield's suggestion, I connected these two wires, and voila, AM was loud and clear. Based on how they are labeled, I haven't a guess on why this fixed it.

I hope this helps.

The installation could have been done in one day, but I split it up over two. I got a late start on Sunday and then ran out of daylight. I didn't take pictures. I would have liked to, but I was anxious to get the project completed.

This weekend I replaced the factory radio in my 2010 Edge. The factory unit was non-NAV, 6 CD,

and I replaced it with a Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD and Pioneer GEX-P920XM XM SAT receiver.

My reasons for the upgrade:

- Switch from Sirius to XM (my other cars have XM (multi radio discount), and XM has baseball).

- Very frustrated by the 1 line display of the factory radio. Very weak in my mind.

- I didn't mind giving up SYNC. I really didn't use it.

I was able to use the basic Metra 70-5520 harness. I was concerned about the radio powering off

immediately when the key was turned off, but it stays on until the door opens, or it times out. The

back up beeper still works, but it doesn't mute the radio. I can hear it fine however. I did have problems

with AM reception- very weak/static. I called Crutchfield and they had me wire the Metra Power Antenna

wire to the Pioneer System Control wire. That took care of it.

To retain my steering wheel controls, I used the Metra Axxess ASWC unit. I'm pretty impressed

with this unit. Only 4 wires to connect. It auto configured itself and worked first try. In this configuration,

the channel up - down just goes to the next station. I manually reprogrammed it to go to the next

preset. The only issue I'm having is I can't seem to assign functions to the bottom 2 SYNC buttons.

I'd like to assign MUTE to one of them.

The XM Module mounted in the same bracket as the OEM Sirius unit. I took the plastic housing off the

Sirius factory antenna connector, and connected it to the XM box. It doesn't snap in, but it's a tight fit.

Reception has been fine. I'm glad I didn't have to add another antenna.

To get the dvd to play without putting the parking brake on, all I did was wire the parking brake wire to a

toggle switch connected to ground. I keep the switch off (non grounded), until I get the screen that says

you can't view without putting the parking brake on. Flip the switch, and I'm good to go.

So far, I'm impressed with this radio. The screen is big and bright. It's pretty intuitive to use as well. Navigating

the XM tuner and my IPOD is very straight forward. It can be upgrade with a Bluetooth module and a NAV

module. Those will maybe be down the road.

I appreciate those that have done this before me, and posted pictures and part numbers and procedures. It

helped me have confidence that I could do this myself.

I'm replacing the factory HU and I'm not sure about the wiring harness I'll need. Currently, I have the non-NAV, 6 CD - MP3, no Sub HU. I'm replacing it with a Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD. I am not interested in retaining SYNC (Not a big fan, rarely use it). The Crutchfield rep I spoke with said his notes indicate I'll need a Pac C2R-FRD1 interface. Since I don't wish to retain SYNC, I'm questioning whether this is needed. I'm hoping a basic Metra 70-5520 harness will do. Will it?

Thanks in advance.

I am getting close to replacing my HU as well. I am looking at the Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD.

I am concerned with the reviews I'm seeing for the PAC-SWI-PS unit. In looking at alternatives, I've found the Metra Axxess ASWC. At this point, this is the way I'm going to go. Have you looked at this unit?

Good luck.

It is part of the rear view mirror. It is the bump on the center - top of the mirror.

I have the same issues and thought if I rotated the mirror so the bump was on the bottom, it might improve. Unfortunately, the compass sensor is also in the mirror. After flipping the mirror, my compass was reading exactly opposite. It didn't really improve the voice recognition either.

I took delivery of my 2010 SEL in December. It killed me to drive it off the lot and into Wisconsin's winter weather, and having to deal with car washes to keep it clean. Now that the weather has turned, I can give it the love it deserves. I have a well and the water spots it leaves after washing are brutal. I recently purchased a water de-ionizer from Costco, and I have to say I am stunned at how well it works. It is made by CR Spotless, model DIC-20. The water mostly just rolls off the vehicle, and what doesn't evaporates without a trace. The windows look like they were just Windexed. It really makes short work out of washing your truck.

The unit isn't cheap and I had a hard time pulling the trigger on it. I gotta say though, every time I've used it, I've been amazed at the results and happy that I bought it.

I just completed this mod as well. Thanks to dadrett for the well documented instructions. A very straight forward project.

I did not have to mess with the shifter- the blue wire was easily accessed once the console cover came off. I used the ground from the power point.

I was concerned with the amount of light this would give off. I contacted a supply house and said I was looking for minimal light, and they recommended a NTE3183, which is what I used. I'm pleased with it.

On a side note, I rewired my console compartment light mod off of the blue wire as well. The tolerance of the switch and the compartment door is not generous, and I've always wondered if the light was really off with the door down, and possibly running my battery down. Now, it'll only come on when the headlights are on and thus, when the engine is running.

I have read different versions of what is included in the factory tow package. When I bought my 2010 SEL, the salesman said the package included a bigger battery, bigger radiator, and a bigger fan . I have also read that it includes an auxiliary oil cooler. This Ford site makes no mention of the battery or oil cooler. I'm wondering if the package has changed over time. Can anyone clear this up for me?

Thanks in advance.

I had a '95 and '96 Windstar minivan that providing your front wipers were on and the vehicle put in reverse, the rear wiper would come on and make 2 passes. A very nice option I don't see on Ford vehicles anymore.

I had a Windstar that had this feature as well. I thought it was great until I put my bike rack on the back. After the rear wiper hit the rack, it never worked right again.

I did a little test today. While it was still at 2000 rpm, I turned OD off and it down shifted. I would think that indicates it was in 6th.

On my morning commute, I only have about a 1/2 mile drive to get on the freeway. Once there, the transmission shifts up as it should to OD. At this point, the tach is reading 2000 RPM's. It stays there for a several minutes and then drops down to about 1600, BUT it doesn't shift to do this. It's my assumption that this is done electronically, as part of the warm up. I'm wondering if this is what you are experiencing.

In mid January I took my 2010 SEL on a 1900 mile trip. At the start, it had 1,800 miles on it. It was almost exclusive highway driving, typically driving 5 mph over the posted speed. I checked my MPG at each fill up, and consistently got 22 MPG. The exception was gas I purchased in Indiana, which got 26 MPG. Their gas pumps did not have any stickers on them stating there was ethanol in it. I bought gas in Indiana on the return trip with the same result. All the other gas I bought came from pumps indicating 10% ethanol.

On a side note, the MPG from the computer was pretty close to what I was getting by doing the math at each fill up. Cool.

If I am understanding this product correctly, for an Edge, it uses its own LCD display and controls for SYNC, Bluetooth and SAT radio info. The display appears to one line only. Is this correct? Does any of the SAT radio info (Title, Artist) appear on the head unit's display?

Thanks.

Here is the SYNC retension piece

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14328_...ampaign=froogle

 

They also make one that doesnt come with the screen for a little cheaper.

 

It all depends on the type of sound you are after. I personally have torn all the factory audio out except for the rear speakers. I have a set of 6.5" diamond components in the front. a crossfire 804 (front going to components, rear channels bridged to subs). for subs i have 2 JL audio 12W3. In a custom built box so you cant even tell they are in there. Head unit is a kenwood flip up unit kvt-512.

 

Back in the day (like 10 years ago) sony had nice car audio decks. but once they came out with the xplode series they went down hill. They are a budget system.

Do I understand your post to say you've used the AFSI-01 and replaced your head unit? Did you retain full SYNC functionality? Is it easy to interface with SYNC on your Head unit? Is the display on the AFS-01 necessary? I really want to upgrade my factory, Non NAV, radio.

Thanks in advance.

Hi- New SEL owner as of yesterday. I am very interested in this mirror. It is my understanding though that the SYNC microphone is in the factory mirror. If it in fact is, removing the mirror would kill SYNC. Is there anyway around this?

Thanks in advance.