Danimal

I would guess that the windshield needs to be polished to remove this issue. There are many polishes on the market for windshields (no joke!) but I've heard good results about Griot's Garage's polish. You may also be able to use a windshield specific clay bar product such as this one also made by Griot's. I'm not affiliated with Griots...just a satisfied customer.

Thanks,

Dan

After pinching in the sides to allow the top of the box to pivot outwards, give a good yank upwards and outwards on both sides of the glovebox. This will pop the door off of the bottom pivots. I then let mine hang from the string.

Dan

BUT you have to get it at a Ford dealer.

See page 2 of the second link you provided. They are available aftermarket at around 1/3 - 1/2 the price of the Ford part. It seems to be identical and fit my 2007 SEL+ just like the factory filter.

Thanks,

Dan

Interesting, thanks for the info! Any idea why?

To the OP.

Change the bulb that's blinking fast and post up if the fast blinking goes away.

One bulb wouldn't be blinking fast, the whole circuit is blinking faster, including dash light and the bulb that is still intact. The bulb that is not blinking at all should be replaced!

-Dan

Though, I do think that with all the safety issues, you'd think the addition of a very inexpensive external temperature sensor would be a high priority on the list.

Sadly, the temperature sensor is already present. Typically, the exterior temperature displays use the intake air temperature sensor that is on the intake tube shortly after the air filter, near the mass air flow sensor. The computer uses this for the air/fuel mixture curves, as it relates to air density.

-Dan

Yeah, I wasn't being funny.

 

When there is less of a load on a signal flasher, it will cycle faster. That is why he is getting a fast blinker.

 

 

Just change the bulb.

The only way the current draw on the flasher relay could be lower is if one of the bulbs has a broken filiment, i.e. burnt out.

Be careful with directing water streams at electrical connectors, coil packs, fuse boxes, etc. I have had 2 fords in the past that didn't take kindly to underhood washing. One of the cars had actually wicked water up into the connecter for the mass air flow sensor and it would kill the engine every time I took a right turn. That took me 2 months and a good data logging system on my PC to figure out. Yes - the water stayed in there for 2 months...

I still wash under the hood of each of my cars. I typically use a few mists of Simple Green (over an already wet engine bay to dilute the Simple Green) and then use a small sponge with regular car soap. If done often, this will keep the engine bay nice and clean. If you use any type of spray after cleaning, I do not suggest one that will leave an oily residue, as this will actually attract more dirt down the road that will be harder to clean off. You also need to be careful with spraying anything like silicone spray around the accessory belt, as this can cause belt slipage.

If your engine bay is very dirty, any detailing shop will be able to clean it with a hot water pressure washer. This is likely what the body shop did to your Taurus.

Thanks,

Dan

Okay...It's been well over 2.5 hours... Park the car and give us your impressions and upload some pictures!

I acually got the red and did my tail lights all red cause I am not a big fan of the euro tail lights.

Can you post photos of this? I am also not a fan of the tail lights on the Edge.

Thanks,

Dan