rmk184

Yeah, it looks like I got a bad battery. Will be replacing today... hopefully whatever caused the original issue is gone.

I have a 2013 Sport and was also disappointed that the rotors were warped around 25k. Replaced them with the powerstop OEM kit, saved my ass two weeks after I installed them. Some clown a few cars ahead was weaving and caused an wreck, I was about a foot from the rear of the car in front of me. I've been using Powerstop for the past 10 years on all my vehicles.

Yep. Resting disconnected is 12v, but connected to the car its around 10.6v Alternator would probably be the best problem, next on the list. Since the starter was replaced it will start almost every time, even with the 10.6v and the battery saver message on.

It's charging at 14v, the battery is brand new. There were no lights or indications at first. I replaced the starter and now the Sync system is giving me the "shutting down to save power" and "turn ignition off or start vehicle". The weird thing is when I try to start it, it acts like the battery is low and the starter clicks then starts. When sitting with the battery connected, it settles at about 10.6volts.

I am having the battery drain issue, I've read several threads regarding the issue. I've changed the battery, ignition switch, and starter so far. Has anyone replaced the body control module or does it need to be flashed by the dealer? The car charges when running and will start but struggle. I measured if battery voltage is holding at 12v it will drop 2 volts when the battery terminals are connected and not recover.

I changed the warped rotors and pads (only 25,000 miles!) the other weekend and noticed that there we scuff marks on the strut where it looks like the wheel is rubbing. Now there is a noticeable squeak when cornering. Update: 1. The tab on the new brake shim needed to be bent a little more, the shim was sliding into the rotor.

I would think the canister or the solenoid would give an instant code. I can reset the code but it comes back a few days or weeks later. The P0456 code indicates a leak over time, that being said there is a possibility of a hose leak. Hopefully this weekend I can get under it and inspect the other components. The main purpose of the thread was to find out if anyone has done a replacement as a worst case scenario, it sounds like the answer is NO. I will update if I find out the cause and solution. Thanks everyone.

I watched that video, while that is a different filler neck I did try cleaning. I tired wiping everything around it, and using the WD40. I didn't seem to work, however I did not have compressed air at the time, I may need to try that. My thought was to get another year or model Edge and replace it. As far as I can tell there no electronics in the filler neck, and the pressure is measured at the evap canister, however I have not confirmed which is why I asked if anyone has done this before. The spring in the door pulls it closed however it doesn't seem like a real good seal. It wouldn't take much wind to just lift the door for enough dust or rain to get in. It started in March so I'm assuming some kind of road grime from the winter must have worked its way in.

The check engine light is on throwing error code P0456 which is a small evap system leak. I've read that the capless systems are prone to getting dirty and one of two things occurring. The first is that it gives the P0456 code which is a nuisance and won't pass state inspection. The second thing that can happen is that the flap sticks and you can't add fuel, luckily I'm in the first category but either way the filler neck needs to be replaced. I would rather have a standard one over the capless. I have tried to clean it but that did not help.

Has anyone replaced the capless fill system with a standard one? I have the code and might be able to get it replaced under warranty however, with only 20000 miles there is a good chance this will happen again. A locking cap is one solution but I don't want to deal with another key on my ring.

Anyone have any updates on this capless filler system issue? Looks like I'm going to the dealship or going to try to clean and clear the code. Has anyone else replaced the filler tube? If so, any part numbers?

2011 Suburban LTZ

I have this brake issue as well. I did the hard braking forward and reverse which helped for a day or two. While the rust noise would be expected if it sat for a while there has to be some other issue or every Ford would do this every day. It seems to be common around 15k-20k mile,after a certain amount of pad wear. I've heard of lubricating the caliper slides on 07-08 models. Anyone else hear of this?

I am no wheel fitment expert but my research has led me to the following. The factory sport wheel us 22x9 with a 44mm offset from what I've found. That means 2.8" front space and 6.2" backspace. The 10" wheel with 44mm offset has a 3.3" front space and 6.7 backspace. It looks like there is plenty of room behind the wheel away from the suspension but it will stick out 0.5" farther than stock. For this reason I didn't get them and just got new tires for now.