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After posting this topic almost 4 years ago I never reallly looked at it again. I am glad to see that it helped some of you as well and it was nice to read some of your feedback. @ Ipgao: There is really not a better way to describe the procedure than the way I initially posted it. If you have trouble understanding it or if it doesn't work for you then I suggest you get a friend to help you perform the procedure on your car..

Hi Gary, Thank you for your reply. This sounds like a solution for my problem with the occasional white particle storm out of my air vents. I will perform this procedure on the weekend. However, .. This is basically a "cleaning" procedure. Any idea how to get rid of the cause in order to prevent this from happening again?

Summary the dash removal was extremely easy as I just had to pull it out of the holding clips after removing the dash I unscrewed the stereo, connected the wiring harness and screwed it back into place the harness that I used (QCExp-1MK) looks as shown on the image below I ran the cable for the mic underneath the dash towards the driver-side door and finally underneath the panel right next to the windshield up to the headliner. I did not even have to remove the headliner, as I was able to simply place the cable on top of it by pushing it over the edge from where it meets the windshield with my fingers. With the mic-clip from the parrot kit I attached the mic directly to the center of the headliner behind the center light. note: this sounds like quite an effort, but I literally completed this task within 10 minutes now there were only two more connections to make, the multimedia input cables and the display connector (the display is removable as it just slides on top of a connector) I ran the multimedia input underneath the cover around the shifter. the multimedia cable includes a line-in cable, a usb-in and an ipod/iphone connector thus the factory aux-in in the center console is no longer needed. I pulled the factory line-in out of the hole to the center console compartment towards the shifter and just left it sitting there. The multimedia cable fit nicely through the existing hole and with the "hole-plug" provided from parrot it now looks like the car came with these connectors equipped from the factory. . Now I not only have a hands-free bluetooth system, but also USB, iPod/iPhone and line-in capabilities with the factory stereo. . finally I connected the display holder cable and all other cables to the parrot bluebox. after snapping the dash back in place I stuck the display holder with the provided 3M strip centered right below the AC controls. I placed the wireless control unit directly below the front of the center console compartment lid, as it makes the control of the system just as convenient as the factory Mercedes or BMW units. After using this unit for quite a while now I feel confident to state the following: the installation is easy and not very time consuming the system nicely integrates into the interior and can hardly be noticed the system is absolutely reliable voice activated functions and dialing work like a charm the sound quality is amazing as the person on the other end of the line receives an audio signal with even the noise of an open sunroof filtered out incoming and outgoing calls mute the stereo (even pause the CD that is playing) and resume afterward USB and iPod input is nice-to-have ...however after a short while you would never want to miss it again

I suggest you try the following process: Initialization of the sunroof

The sunroof did not close all the way anymore. A little gap of about 4 mm remained open. Cause for it is still unknown.

Hello, As I was just having some trouble with my sunroof and it needed to be re-initialized, I thought the following instructions on how to re-initialize the motor that drives the sunroof might be helpful for some of you as well. Start the engine. If sunroof open, then press and hold the glass close switch until the glass is in CLOSED position. Release, repress and hold the glass close switch (for at least 10 seconds). - The glass panel will move toward the front hard-stop and stall. - The shade panels will move toward their front hard-stops, stall, move back a few millimeters, then forward. - After the shade panels have finished moving backward and forward, release the glass close switch. Press and hold the glass close switch. -The glass and shades will fully open together. Then, the glass will close first and then the shades will return to the fully CLOSED position. When the shades have stopped moving, release the glass close switch. Initialization is now complete. Verify successful initialization by carrying out one-touch open, one-touch close, one-touch vent (glass) and one-touch open for the shades. - If roof opening panel does not operate correctly, repeat Steps 2 through 5. NOTE: The glass close switch must be held during the entire initialization process or the sequence will be aborted and the roof will remain in a de-initialized state. Keep objects and body parts clear of the glass panel when carrying out the initialization procedure. During the initialization procedure, the glass panel closes with high force and cannot detect objects in its path.

As I was looking around online trying to find the best deal on that harness (QCExp-1MK) a few questions came up: Does the harness keep all the current functionality from my steering wheel controls as well as from the aux-in, etc.? Is my stereo (2007 SEL Plus) an amplified or non-amplified system? Is there the possibility to encounter problems with the factory sub-woofer? ...someone said online that his sub-woofer for some reason does not mute with his harness (however, I am not sure, whether it is exactly the same harness or not)

Thank you for your response. I will look into getting a wiring harness as it seems to save a lot of work. I just hope that I don't damage anything when I try to remove the stereo and parts of the dash to run the mic wires, etc.

Hello, Recently I purchased a used 2007 Ford Edge SEL Plus. The 2007 model did not come with Microsoft SYNC, so I am planing to install an aftermarket bluetooth hands-free kit. I just got theParrot MKi 9100 car kit. Additionally I have PDF versions of various wiring diagrams of the vehicle. I would greatly appreciate some detailed step-by-step instructions on the installation process that focus on the following topics: removing the car stereo connecting the necessary cables placing the mic above the rear view mirror Have any of you done this procedure before? Also, do I need some kind of additional connection harness? Thanks in advance! David