rwbronco

This weekend I replaced the factory radio in my 2010 Edge. The factory unit was non-NAV, 6 CD,

and I replaced it with a Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD and Pioneer GEX-P920XM XM SAT receiver.

 

My reasons for the upgrade:

 

- Switch from Sirius to XM (my other cars have XM (multi radio discount), and XM has baseball).

- Very frustrated by the 1 line display of the factory radio. Very weak in my mind.

- I didn't mind giving up SYNC. I really didn't use it.

 

I was able to use the basic Metra 70-5520 harness. I was concerned about the radio powering off

immediately when the key was turned off, but it stays on until the door opens, or it times out. The

back up beeper still works, but it doesn't mute the radio. I can hear it fine however. I did have problems

with AM reception- very weak/static. I called Crutchfield and they had me wire the Metra Power Antenna

wire to the Pioneer System Control wire. That took care of it.

 

To retain my steering wheel controls, I used the Metra Axxess ASWC unit. I'm pretty impressed

with this unit. Only 4 wires to connect. It auto configured itself and worked first try. In this configuration,

the channel up - down just goes to the next station. I manually reprogrammed it to go to the next

preset. The only issue I'm having is I can't seem to assign functions to the bottom 2 SYNC buttons.

I'd like to assign MUTE to one of them.

 

The XM Module mounted in the same bracket as the OEM Sirius unit. I took the plastic housing off the

Sirius factory antenna connector, and connected it to the XM box. It doesn't snap in, but it's a tight fit.

Reception has been fine. I'm glad I didn't have to add another antenna.

 

To get the dvd to play without putting the parking brake on, all I did was wire the parking brake wire to a

toggle switch connected to ground. I keep the switch off (non grounded), until I get the screen that says

you can't view without putting the parking brake on. Flip the switch, and I'm good to go.

 

So far, I'm impressed with this radio. The screen is big and bright. It's pretty intuitive to use as well. Navigating

the XM tuner and my IPOD is very straight forward. It can be upgrade with a Bluetooth module and a NAV

module. Those will maybe be down the road.

 

I appreciate those that have done this before me, and posted pictures and part numbers and procedures. It

helped me have confidence that I could do this myself.

Can you link some of the sources you used? I'm a how-to guide collector and have lots of them on my sites and would like to add one because there's always 20 posts going at a time about "is it possible to swap out to a navigation etc"

edit: I will probably use some of the tips and information you gave us here in my guide and will link to this thread. Thanks for the little "this didn't work but I got it to by doing this" tips!

My 2007 lease ended yesterday and I really wanted to get the 2011 Limited. That said, the incentives on the 2010 are just too good.

 

I found a 2010 Limited that has everything I want but it doesn't have the Nav system. Is it possible to put in a nav system and keep all of Sync's functions including steer wheel controls?

 

If so, what units are recommended?

I would most certainly look for one that has navigation. They will be able to locate one at a nearby dealership if you ask them to check. It's way more of a pain in the ass than it's worth and since you haven't made the plunge yet - buy one with nav and don't try to add it later.

I recently bought a 07 MKX with factory navigation. That model year has the 4p map disc. Upon scowering the internet, I've discovered that there are maps updated to 9p now. I'm also a avid torrent downloader and found the ford/lincoln/mercury 8p map pack. My question is, has anyone downloaded these torrent files and successfully burned and got them to work in their vehicles. I don't know how to successfully burn these files. I know they have to be dual layered due to the size of the files, but other than that, I'm not very burn savvy. Anyone who has successfully accomplished this feat please enlighten me on how to properly burn the files and get them to read correctly in the factory unit. Thanks a lot.

I've not downloaded or used them either and a lot of people would probably frown upon the use of bittorrent and other such methods of acquiring them (although they're ridiculously expensive).

I download discs that need burning all the time...linux distributions etc. I use MagicISO (don't remember if it's free or not) and use the Magic CD & DVD Burner that came with it to burn ISO files (disc images) to blank discs. You can pick up dual-layer DVD's at any Best Buy etc. You'll know if you need a single layer or dual layer just by whether or not it's over 4gb in size once you download it. You'll use whatever ISO burner you want, select the ISO and burn away. If when you download it it's a .rar file or a .zip file or has tons and tons of .01 .02 .03 .04 file extensions, just use PeaZip or some other file compression software to extract the disc image from the first one.

Good luck to you and report back.

I can't wait to get back to driving a Ford.

With iPhones/iPads streaming bluetooth music now you don't even have to take it out of your backpack/pocket to play music from it

Take note of the indentation in the center of the dash.

Is that about the size of an iPad? It's not a good viewing angle though.

 

Does anyone else have an iPad and thought about taking it with you on a road trip?

Where ya going to put it?

I sit mine usually right in front of the gear shifter with it sideways in landscape mode. This gives a big size video playback and it isn't teetering on falling off like when you sit it in front of the radio in the indentation standing up.

You could also buy two jumbo 3m hooks and attach them on either side of the AC controls so that it's higher up and have them cradle it. I did this on my last long road trip. It was the perfect height for casually watching out of the corner of your eye without having to look down at the gear shifter (which takes your eyes further from the road ahead)

I'm pretty sure if you went aftermarket Nav/DVD unit in the dash you'd lose most of your entire Sync abilities. I'm not 100% sure... I know a lot of times people lose their steering-wheel controls on most cars (some manage to retain them through fancy wiring) and I'm pretty sure the Sync system is going to only be retained by staying with a Ford headunit. That said your only option would be to get a quote from a dealership on it.

It IS possible but they might try to tell you it's not. (I'd go see them instead of calling them so they might not just try to shrug it off and say "you can't do that".)

You might have the sirius antenna already, i'm not sure. If not you'll have to pick one of those up to get that feature working. It's probably not going to be too cheap considering it's a pretty hefty costing option from the factory as-is.

If you want it for the nav only and want to keep Sync then a TomTom or something is much more practical.

If they're coming on at all - then it's a bulb issue. I'd replace them with an LED bulb because those are always super bright and come in all shapes and sizes. Some guys on my Lotus forums use this site: http://superbrightleds.com

I believe these are the bulb sizes for the 08 Edge

Low Beam Headlight Bulb Size: H11

High Beam Headlamp Light Bulb Size: 9005

Parking Light Bulb Size: 3157NALL

Front Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 3157NALL

Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 4157LL

Tail Light Bulb Size: 4157LL

Stop Light Bulb Size: 4157LL

High Mount Stop Light Bulb Size: LED

Fog/Driving Light Bulb Size: H11

License Plate Light Bulb Size: 6418

Back Up Light Bulb Size: 921

Rear Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 194

Map Light Bulb Size: 2825 or 3886X

Dome Light Bulb Size: 578

Step/Courtesy Light Bulb Size: 2825 or 37

You'd need a new 921 size bulb but I'd pull the old one out first and read what it says on it to be sure that's the right size.

Halfway down this page: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fmini-wedge.html

they're about $5.95 a piece in Cool White or Natural White

In all honesty - I've got a friend with a 2002 Lincoln LS. Everyone in his online communities suggests going with a double-din aftermarket unit. They usually have more features and things like that... DVD playback, Sirius/XM, USB, etc. Do you have Sync and are wishing to retain it?

I'd be willing to bet that the Motorola V3 would work with Sync. It's been a while since I've had a Razor though but I'm pretty sure people have used them with it. It's a popular phone and I'd be surprised if it couldn't make calls through sync.

Sorry for the third post in a row - but here's a PDF that might help you in testing to see whether the sub is bad or not. It's another PDF. Scroll down to Page 39/40 and refer to Pinpoint Test E. This is a much more technical test and if you're uncomfortable doing it or aren't sure what most of it means, take it by your local dealership.

SAVF0003.pdf

9 times out of 10 simply pulling #3 and putting it back in will fix it.

PS I didn't see if you had Nav or not.

You can do a little self-diagnostic to see if the sub is actually not working or if you have it set low somehow and just can't hear it.

If you don't have nav:

Audio Systems Without Navigation

 

Turn the Audio Control Module (ACM) on...this is your head-unit.

Operate the audio system in radio tuner (AM/FM) mode.

Press and hold preset buttons 3 and 6 for 3 seconds until the speaker walk-around test begins.

The display indicates each speaker as it is tested.

NOTE: If the speaker walk-around test is the only test required, this procedure can be stopped after Step 3 by turning the ACM off.

 

Before the speaker walk-around test is complete, carry out any of the following actions:

 

Preset Button Press Diagnostic Function Display Diagnostic Function Description

Press button: 1

Diagnostic Function: ACM Self-Test

Display: SELF TEST

Description: The ACM carries out a self-test. At the end of the self-test, the display either indicates SELF PASS or scrolls through any DTCs present. Note that the self-test may not indicate all DTCs that are present. If DTCs are suspected, retrieve continuous and on-demand DTCs using the scan tool.

 

Press Button 2

Diagnostic Function: View DTCs

Display: NO DTCS, or scrolls through DTCs

Description: The ACM displays any DTCs that are present. To scroll through the DTCs, press the TUNE UP button. If no DTCs are present, the display reads NO DTCS.

 

Press Button: 3

Diagnostic: AM/FM Antenna Signal Strength

Display: SIGNAL ###

Description: The ACM displays the AM/FM antenna signal strength. To run this test, the audio system should be in AM radio tuner mode before entering the ACM self-diagnostic mode.

 

Press Button: 4

Diagnostic: Software Levels

Display: SOFT LEVELS

Description: The ACM displays software levels for various components of the audio system. Knowing the software levels may not aid diagnostics. Press the TUNE UP button to scroll through the software levels.

 

Press Button: 5

Diagnostic: Display Test

Display: DISPLAY TEST, then all segments illuminate All of the ACM segments illuminate.

Description: If the vehicle is equipped with an Front Display Interface Module (FDIM), the segments on the FDIM illuminate, rather than the ACM.

 

Press Button: 6

Diagnostic: Retrieve ACM Part Number

Display: RADIO CONFIG

Description: The ACM displays the ACM part number, and various configuration levels. Press the TUNE UP button to scroll to the desired function.

 

 

To exit the self-diagnostic mode, turn the ACM off.

If you do have Navigation, it's basically the same except you have labeled buttons on the screen you can press instead of having to press preset numbers. It's a lot easier with Nav lol

edit: spelling and formatting

I wonder if you couldn't just splice in a resistor that would cancel out that noise. I also wonder if there's not one there in the first place and yours has gone bad... will look around and see what I can find.

So I have an iPad and an iPhone and the other day the bluetooth music quit working on both of them. The phone would still make calls using Sync/bluetooth but the music would not work in the "media" menu on the screen (I have nav). I would select iPad or iPhone and hit connect and it would never show the green and blue arrows letting me know it was indeed connected. I pulled Fuse #3 and waited 30 seconds or so and popped it back in. Connected right up and started playing music. I hope I don't have to do this often!

Fuse box on the inside is easy to reach. It's got a hinge on the side facing you so once you get the tabs loose on the bottom just swing it towards you (might have to depress teh parking brake to let it clear). It looks a little different than the image on the fuse panel cover but they're in the same order. It comes out easy and doesn't matter if you flip it around on accident when putting it back in since a fuse works both ways.

I'd get a little voltage tester (never know when they'll come in handy) and see if the amp on the sub is getting any power (it should be one piece if I'm not mistaken). If it is - then it's the subwoofer unit and you'll need to buy another one. If it's not getting power - well then you'll have to cross that bridge when you get there. But your first step is to see if it's even getting power.

Here's a PDF from the Ford Professional Technician Society (PTS... we don't get paper workshop books any more, we do it all online).

Here's an image from the PDF if you'd rather just take a gander at it.

(pdf is attached to post)

S8VF0018.pdf

congrats!! glad you like it and welcome to FEF!

is the "manual shift" on the shifter itself or are they paddles on the steering wheel? I've only driven the Ford Edge Sport which has the paddles and they're remarkably fun.

I highly doubt that it's interchangeable. You'd have to do the ENTIRE front end - entire bumper, hood, fender panels, headlights, grille, etc. Even then you'd have to hope that where it meets at the door hasn't changed too much either.. I stood in front of a 2011 parked next to a 2010 yesterday and the difference while it may look subtle is night and day.

if someone manages to break into your car, the glovebox will be even easier. go with a company like GunVault. Unless you simply want to keep kids in the car from opening it and being able to play with a handgun or something along those lines - which I can understand

edit he either bought a handle or entire glovebox door for an MKX. Here's a picture showing the locking handle: mkx glovebox

I 100% doubt any claim that this company makes. It's like the "performance chips" available for my Lotus: http://rs4performance.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1723

I have been working on my car for a while and it's literally 100% impossible to be able to slap something like that on it and expect it to do anything.

For that link I put just now, if you read their "How It Works"... it looks like they're saying that they're doing something to lean out to air/fuel ratio. There are a number of ways to do this externally, such as altering the signals from the MAF or O2 sensors... but my guess is it actually does nothing at all. They're counting on a placebo effect; some people will think it works because they want it think it works. It's a variable resistor and you're not going to see a lick of difference.

The poster above me is BS and joined the day he posted that comment and has only made that one post. He obviously is affiliated with the sprint booster people.

I don't particularly care for the look of them but my 5'3" girlfriend complains about the height getting in and out every single time she rides in the Edge with me so it might be something to consider ^_^

That is pretty raw to charge for 'rertrieving' the code.

I always thought you had to hook up a laptop to it and pull the code that way - good to know it's not like reprogramming a key or anything like that. I'll pass this info along about the location of the code.

The AWD is going to handle better but is going to weigh over 400lbs more. Something to keep in mind.

From this autoblog post: http://www.autoblog.com/2010/08/23/whoops-mt-discovers-ford-edge-sport-slower-than-less-powerful-s/

In any case, the Edge Sport, with its massive 22-inch wheels and wide tires, can't keep up with the base Edge in a straight line.

 

On the flip side, the AWD Edge Sport (with those aforementioned oversize wheels and tires) handily out-handled its base model sibling. In other words, this is a case where you need to pick your poison, either handling or straight-line acceleration. And of course the upcoming EcoBoost will add another interesting option to consider in a few short months.

While it's an unfair comparison testing a heavier car vs a lighter car and claiming heresy when the lighter car ends up being faster 0-60, it's still worth mentioning that the AWD system's weight slows it down in a straight line.

If you don't "NEED" AWD, don't get it. The extra weight, frictional power train loses, cost, including maintenance, fuel economy doesn't justify if you don't use it.

Hehe, congrats on the Edge - upload some pictures and share them with us! And good luck there Choff with yours when it comes in!

I've got an iPhone and stream mine via bluetooth so I can't say first hand what to do with your nano but rebooting it while it's plugged in should be the first thing you do - report back with whether or not it worked

I've got a couple car reviews on my site where I'll drive something and post my reactions and impressions, etc. I wrote a short little overview of the new sync system in the 2011 Edge.

Link: http://hometeamperformance.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=75:2011-ford-edge-limited&catid=29:car-reviews&Itemid=191

Since then I've driven the 2011 Edge Sport and I've got to say it's really pretty quick compared to the last year model. The AWD felt about the same off the line but honestly felt slower. I did some research and it's actually slower through the 0-60 than the FWD system because it adds 400lbs to the curb weight. Just something to consider (something like 4000lbs vs 4400lbs). It's got new springs, shock absorbers and stabilizer bars so the Sport definitely handles better than the lower trims but the AWD system just slows it down. source: http://www.autoblog.com/2010/08/23/whoops-mt-discovers-ford-edge-sport-slower-than-less-powerful-s/4

The new Sync + nav system is flat out awesome and I'll be doing a long-term test on one soon. Currently driving a loaded 2010 Edge and really enjoying it but looking forward to getting to drive a 2011 Sport for a while.

Anyone else gotten to play with it?