CMOS

I had taken the car to Costco for a flat fix and they let me know that the lip of the rim was bent enough to allow air to leak and they put in stop leak in the rim to slow it down. Salvage 18s are probably the way to go. Need to see if Forscan can allow me to adjust the wheel size in the computer. I have this for my Bronco

I had the exact same issue on my 2011 Limited where both front door would always be ajar, or suddenly read open while driving. I think the quote to replace the faulty sensors required disassembling the entire door panel and was a 2 hour job per door for a $40 sensor. You can bypass the bad sensor with a magnetic switch Refer to this video - You can buy a simple window magnetic sensor for each door. Make sure the switch supports Normally Open (NO) or Normally Closed (NC) so you have options. Pick up neodymium magnets, wire, a post connector and some epoxy. You can use a T-Tap connector to connect the magnetic sensors to the sensor wires on each door (video gives you the wire colors for both doors). Test it with the car on and the magnet from the switch to confirm it is wired correctly. I like putting gorilla tape around the sensor screws. Mount the sensor under the kick panel about level with the plastic bins on each door. Position the sensor close to where you can epoxy the rare earth magnet on closest to the sensor. Just tape it at first and test it out, then when you feel it's consistent epoxy it in place. Did that almost a year ago and no issues since.

Yeah I'm running chrome 22s on an AWD limited. So a 17" rim would have cheaper tire options? It only has about 120K miles so it should have some life left so economical AT tire options would be ideal.

Bought a Bronco a while ago but I still have my 2011 Limited. Wheels are curbed to heck and tires are ready for a replacement. Gonna give this car to my kid who got her learner's permit. She grew up in the car and I want to keep her safe. Looking for rim and tire recommendations that would keep her safe in normal driving, light snow and just reliability. My 21's leak constantly so I keep an air compressor in the car. Looking for options for rim size and a quality AT tire to keep her from sliding into a ditch.

In my infinite wisdom I believe I placed my battery charger near the spare tire after my battery drained the last time. Unfortunately without power I cannot open the liftgate to open the floor to get to it. I've been able to pop the cover near the latch within the trunk but I am unsure on how to trigger it manually. Given the rear seat backs are also electric its very hard for me to get in there to look around for the mechanism. Anyone know how to open it manually from the inside?

I'm currently having a fast turn signal on the right hand side turn signal on my 2011 edge limited. This is due to splice connectors for an LED conversion and a running light mod I did about a decade back. As of now the daytime running light on the turn signal bulb works but the turn signal itself is completely out due to the wire being nearly cut. Does someone know which wire is power for the DRL and which is for the trunk signal. I've attached a picture of my mess below. Thanks!

To close out this topic. I confirmed the following. Electrical contact cleaner doesn't really work well to fix the issue. Brake cleaner was the most effective, eliminating both driver and door side issues. (However slamming the door does temporarily bring the problem back) Silicone spray lubrication undoes the cleaning effect and re-introduces the door ajar issue.

I'm finally going to do something about the 'door ajar' warning on my passenger front door. I've watched a large number of videos about disassembling the door to replace the sensor, or cleaning it with contact cleaner and lube. My question is, in relation to the latch opening, and the hook that rotates inside, where is that sensor exactly? Is it below the rotating hook, above it or behind it? I might as well aim the cleaner and lube at that small red button as opposed to drowning the opening (which worked for the driver side that began to have the same issue, but hasn't worked on the passenger side).

Thanks for this. In my old Xterra the rear cushions came out by pulling on 2 O rings and they popped right out (otherwise the seatbacks won't fold flat ). The other thread you pointed to had the whole car fail to start post removal. Might be safer for me just to use an air blower to blow out the dog hair under there and use my carpet cleaner wand to shampoo from under the seat. Fronts are infinitely easier to deal with and remove. Thanks for all this info! I never got around to buying the workshop manual after 12 years. I'm prepping the car for sale as I am moving into a Ford Bronco hopefully soon!

Looking to deep clean the carpets and I was wondering if there is a way to remove the rear seat cushions to get at the carpet underneath. I have seen on the 2015 and up there are levers to undo to pull the cushions up, but I don't see them on the 2011 with leather model. It would also seem the seatback and lower cushion assembly are tied together since they have a "powered" fold flat function.

I've been ignoring a PTU leak that prevents me from filling it up for a bit longer than I should have. Have there been any TSBs for the 2011 Ford Edge LTD 3.6L V6? I thought I saw a post a while ago about this being noted for a 2014 or newer but not for a 2011.

So in getting an oil change on my 100K mile 2011 Edge Limited AWD I was informed that the transfer case output shaft was leaking gear oil, and the transmission is leaking ATF. I had to top both up as the oil change place can't wrench a transmission. Would these problems be related to the PTU issues I am seeing all over this board from literally 2008 to 2016 or something? I more likely than not have shavings in the transfer case but the car has not had any issues driving. (Technician said it has probably been there for quite a while).

I have about 75K on my car right now. I am not sure if they are related, but I had done a LED conversion on my car years ago with bulbs from drivebrite. The headlight that failed is on the same side as LED turn signal I got from them. Both seemed to die around the same time. Let me check out these links, they all seem to be on point! Might opt for the $90 bulbs if they match and have them installed (installation is about $70 an hour) Buying 2 sounds like a great idea, as I don't want to do this again.

I had a headlight on my 2011 Limited change color from white to pink for a couple of days, then the light stopped working. Talking to the Ford Mechanic, the bulb itself costs over $380 dollars itself! Has anyone obtained a replacement bulb from other sources (Ebay, Amazon, junk place) and had it work for them? I stopped the repair shop investigating since apparently it takes time to disassemble the bumper to test everything out. I've seen the video of the guy that replaced them himself, as it isn't a trivial replacement but I want to think about options before either doing it myself, or having it replaced.

Well it was cooler today so no overheating even with regular AC on. Will test out with Max AC and ensure both fans are going.