CMOS

In my infinite wisdom I believe I placed my battery charger near the spare tire after my battery drained the last time. Unfortunately without power I cannot open the liftgate to open the floor to get to it. I've been able to pop the cover near the latch within the trunk but I am unsure on how to trigger it manually. Given the rear seat backs are also electric its very hard for me to get in there to look around for the mechanism. Anyone know how to open it manually from the inside?

I'm currently having a fast turn signal on the right hand side turn signal on my 2011 edge limited. This is due to splice connectors for an LED conversion and a running light mod I did about a decade back. As of now the daytime running light on the turn signal bulb works but the turn signal itself is completely out due to the wire being nearly cut. Does someone know which wire is power for the DRL and which is for the trunk signal. I've attached a picture of my mess below. Thanks!

To close out this topic. I confirmed the following. Electrical contact cleaner doesn't really work well to fix the issue. Brake cleaner was the most effective, eliminating both driver and door side issues. (However slamming the door does temporarily bring the problem back) Silicone spray lubrication undoes the cleaning effect and re-introduces the door ajar issue.

I'm finally going to do something about the 'door ajar' warning on my passenger front door. I've watched a large number of videos about disassembling the door to replace the sensor, or cleaning it with contact cleaner and lube. My question is, in relation to the latch opening, and the hook that rotates inside, where is that sensor exactly? Is it below the rotating hook, above it or behind it? I might as well aim the cleaner and lube at that small red button as opposed to drowning the opening (which worked for the driver side that began to have the same issue, but hasn't worked on the passenger side).

Thanks for this. In my old Xterra the rear cushions came out by pulling on 2 O rings and they popped right out (otherwise the seatbacks won't fold flat ). The other thread you pointed to had the whole car fail to start post removal. Might be safer for me just to use an air blower to blow out the dog hair under there and use my carpet cleaner wand to shampoo from under the seat. Fronts are infinitely easier to deal with and remove. Thanks for all this info! I never got around to buying the workshop manual after 12 years. I'm prepping the car for sale as I am moving into a Ford Bronco hopefully soon!

Looking to deep clean the carpets and I was wondering if there is a way to remove the rear seat cushions to get at the carpet underneath. I have seen on the 2015 and up there are levers to undo to pull the cushions up, but I don't see them on the 2011 with leather model. It would also seem the seatback and lower cushion assembly are tied together since they have a "powered" fold flat function.

I've been ignoring a PTU leak that prevents me from filling it up for a bit longer than I should have. Have there been any TSBs for the 2011 Ford Edge LTD 3.6L V6? I thought I saw a post a while ago about this being noted for a 2014 or newer but not for a 2011.

So in getting an oil change on my 100K mile 2011 Edge Limited AWD I was informed that the transfer case output shaft was leaking gear oil, and the transmission is leaking ATF. I had to top both up as the oil change place can't wrench a transmission. Would these problems be related to the PTU issues I am seeing all over this board from literally 2008 to 2016 or something? I more likely than not have shavings in the transfer case but the car has not had any issues driving. (Technician said it has probably been there for quite a while).

I have about 75K on my car right now. I am not sure if they are related, but I had done a LED conversion on my car years ago with bulbs from drivebrite. The headlight that failed is on the same side as LED turn signal I got from them. Both seemed to die around the same time. Let me check out these links, they all seem to be on point! Might opt for the $90 bulbs if they match and have them installed (installation is about $70 an hour) Buying 2 sounds like a great idea, as I don't want to do this again.

I had a headlight on my 2011 Limited change color from white to pink for a couple of days, then the light stopped working. Talking to the Ford Mechanic, the bulb itself costs over $380 dollars itself! Has anyone obtained a replacement bulb from other sources (Ebay, Amazon, junk place) and had it work for them? I stopped the repair shop investigating since apparently it takes time to disassemble the bumper to test everything out. I've seen the video of the guy that replaced them himself, as it isn't a trivial replacement but I want to think about options before either doing it myself, or having it replaced.

Well it was cooler today so no overheating even with regular AC on. Will test out with Max AC and ensure both fans are going.

I seem to have a cascading set of problems that point to problems on the radiator fan or supporting system side. In the past week, these have happened. 1. Left HID headlight stopped working 2. Battery no longer starts car, replaced 3. Overtemperature alarm goes off after slow drive in 90 degree heat. 4. When at normal operating temperature, both radiator fans off, AC still hot. 5. Fan belt still attached. Only real modification I've made was to change the turn signals to LED along with shunt resistor installation, which was over 5 years ago. What would be the prevailing wisdom about the problem? (Bad fans, bad belt drive, cooling module, blown fuse, etc) These seem to have some up when it finally got warm here. I am in severe need of fluid replacements, which I will have done when i take this in for the problems above.

Yup, I had the original set which were reused housings. I upgraded to the new design (but I think I ordered right when he was prototyping them). One took in water immediately, the next was completely coated in caulk which also took on water. I think the last replacement was sealed, but it only took 5 months to give out too.

I bought the same puddles for a number of years on my 2011 Ford Edge. They've always died despite multiple replacements. I think I have V3s on my car now, but they've gone dark a long time ago. Finally found my original puddle lamps and will reinstall them. Sad, the replacements were awesome but I think water gets int he housing then they die soon after.

I had the same type of fitment issues with the new design puddle lights. It took a lot of odd bending of the connectors to get it to fit back into the base. The connectors are so close together I fear they may contact under any pressure, so I had to wrap one lead in electrical tape just to be sure. My question is since the leads point up, is there any chance that the wires will get caught up in the gears for the power mirrors? These puddle lamps replaced the older version of the puddles I got from Dan, which eventually failed (little to no light when opened) I think something came loose inside since when I put these new versions on it was nearly blinding. Hope these last longer!