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shiro_se

Edge Member
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About shiro_se

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  1. Well, I got it done, without using the connector. The speaker connector is there behind the passenger kick panel, but it's forward of the connector that the Ebay seller supplied. I found the wire colours in another post, so I soldered the line level converter to the RF and RR speakers to maintain some sort of Fade control. The Remote signal wire is also there, just a single wire in its own conector, just above the other two large connectors. I had a lot of extra length on the RCA cable so I was able to tuck the converter away at the top of the kick panel and all I have to remove to get to it is the fan cover to get to it. Just two fir tree fasteners hold that in place, so easy adjustments to the sub level can be made. I used a Kenwood 250W amp screwed directly to the back of the OEM sub and powered it via a 10ga wire directly to the battery side of the 100A megafuse in the engine bay fusebox. Thank you Ford for not requiring dash removal to do simple add-ons to the stereo system in the Edge!
  2. I just put a '11 MKX sub in my wife's '09 Edge, so I would say there is no difference. Hers has no sub, but I was able to easily detach the cubby from the back of the trim panel by cutting off the melted over pins on the back of the 'bucket'. Does anyone know where to get a decent looking grille to cover the hole? I like the idea of it looking OEM. Also, I bought a harness adapter off Ebay and it came with a line level converter. I found a connector behind the front passenger kick panel that this connector fits, but when the connector is separated, the stereo operates normally, so I have my doubts whether this is the right connector. Any thoughts? Leigh
  3. I also have the Scangauge II mounted in our Edge. We have no towing package and when towing my 6x10 enclosed trailer (~2500lbs), in 100degF temps at 50mph, I saw temps of 204-207degrees. 187degrees when not towing, is the norm.
  4. I have the exact same problem with out 2009 Edge Sport. It's only happened twice in the past few months and it's only when we leave the kids in the car listening to the radio with the engine off while we run into a store for a few minutes (~10minute battery drain.) A simple boost, no charging, allows the vehicle to start. Headlights, stereo, lock/unlock features all function, but attempting to start will cause the entire vehicle electronics to go haywire (CD/radio looses all of it's settings, info settings and mileage default back to factory settings.) I've checked the battery and alternator voltages and everything is fine when I get home to do so. I have noticed the battery positive terminal is very prone to corrosion/acid buildup and I cleaned it this summer when we first got this vehicle at 50,000km, and again after the first 'no start' episode and thought this was the cause. Vehicle currently has 61,00km. I coated the terminals and clamps with dielectric grease and the corrosion has not returned, but we had our second 'no start' episode last week. I don't want to buy a new battery without knowing that it is the problem.
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