factor99

My 2011 has done that about once a year since new.  II is the right way around when I restart the vehicle.

I consider it due to flaky Ford engineering.

On previous model years, all it has taken is to remove the liftgate trim panel, remove the two mounting screws and press in the tab to remove the high mount stoplamp assembly. Hopefully same for Gen 2.

 

EDIT: Alas it is not. The rear spoiler has to be removed to replace the stoplamp

2015 Edge R&R High Mounted Stoplamp.jpg

 

The rear sprayer inside the third brake light broke off on my 2011 a few years ago. I didn't realize there was a screw from the inside; I took out the outside screws and yanked the light out, There was an insert in the light, which the inside screw went into, That stayed on the screw and came out of the light. I don't remember well, but it wasn't so difficult to get out and wouldn't have pulled so hard to risk breaking it (I figured the screws were already out, it must just be on a post or something...).

To put it back, I just pushed it in as far as it would go to; I don't think it went all the way back in at first (the light seemed a bit pushed out in the middle), but think the pressure from the outside screws worked it back in.

For my issue, I silicone glued the sprayer back in, it is still fine years later.

I jack up the entire front or back of my FWD 2011 with a 3 ton floor jack. There is a bar across the back between the wheels, and there is a structural member under the engine. Done this many times without issue.

There are plenty of structural points to put jack stands.

Since I use winter tires on their own rims, I rotate the tires when I change them.

I had the same problem as the OP; the little round piece on top of one button (inside) come loose so the button wouldn't work. I reattached it with a tiny bit of silicone glue and it hasn't been a problem since.

I have a 2011 and it find that the power arm doesn't lift the hatch all the way up.. I can usually push it up an inch or two further. That can make the difference in banging my head or not.

Just make use the toothbrush is attached well! I think on an Edge (at least the gen 1.5) we would need quite a long stick.

On my 2011, I don't have to refill it completely to turn off the light. If fact, it goes off even if I am on a slope and the sensor gets recovered.

I agree with Akirby and will add that I have pushed the wrong button a few times with a child seat strapped in on one side, and nothing moved.

I tried the calibration procedure using elm327 like the one below amd it didnt recognizrd the vehicul

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B016C5722U/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504059840&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=elm327+wifi&dpPl=1&dpID=51YhpE%2BhGwL&ref=plSrch

 

Then i ordered the odblink mx BT and it worked like a charm!!

 

Lesson learn... dont by crap

We learned the same lesson. I just got the Obdlink MX and it worked great.

fyi to others, I got it for CAN$115 on amazon.ca.

I have a 2011. I have had to changed the fob battery before and didn't have any notification.

Yesterday my Edge started chirping the horn every few minutes while parked. It seemed like it was chirping a code but it was different every time. The signal lights flashed while it was chirping too. When I tried to unlock with the key fob, it re-locked a second later and the fob wouldn't lock the vehicle. It would start without problems and the inside lock buttons worked.. There was nothing different on the dashboard either.

I changed the battery in the intelligent key fob (even though it still read 3V) and everything was normal again!

There was a torrential rainstorm when the problems started, maybe that played a role in the problem. The Edge had been at the dealer for the day too; I don't know if something happened there.

I had P0455 recently, it was the canister vent solenoid (under the vehicle).

You would think wired would be good, but I guess not!

Yes, I though I was safe getting version 1.5; version 2.1 is apparently quite bad. The issue is that the ELM327 clones are not exact copies of the original.

This doesn't matter if you are just monitoring i.e Torque, but if you want to change parameters (i.e reset the battery monitor), there are extra features that are needed.

I suspect that mine meets some or maybe most of the extra requirements, but Forscan has set the bar very high, possible for good reason.

I realize I didn't update on my cheap ODB2 adapter.

It worked on my phone but the Bluetooth was flakey and I couldn't get it to connect at all to a laptop, The switch mod worked for accessing the MS-CAN bus though (but the Bluetooth would cut our before it was finished reading all the data).

I ordered a USB adapter, it connected fine but then Forscan said it doesn't support all commands.

It seems cheap is not a good approach!

My battery was replaced under warranty when it was two years old and the replacement lasted three years. I recently replaced it with a Costco battery.

$110 Canadian and higher capacity.

I got a wiring harness with the T connectors. I had to squeeze the connectors through the weather grommet and widen it for the extra wires

I would just get bare wires next time and tap them in, it would actually be a cleaner install since I wouldn't have to damage the grommets.

There are grommetted holes in the hatch area floor; you can put the the connector through one of those to keep it on the outside.

It is more convenient on the outside but then it is subject to the weather and road grime.

I have an electric one. it is >10 years old but only use it a few times a year.

I use this one with my pressure washer:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Snow-Foam-Lance-Foam-Nozzle-Lavor-New-Type-compatible/1079982643.html

Works great, The key, of course, is having the right soap - Chemical Guys have great soaps but Maguire's Gold Class works well and is available everywhere.

If you get a pressure washer foam gun, make sure it will fit your connector, there are different types.

If you get a pressure washer foam gun, make sure it will fit your connector, there are different types.

You can supposedly add and delete keys using Forscan with an extended license.

Edit seems only up to 2010s at this time.

I have the Huskeys on the front on my 11 too. They are molded to fit, unlike the OEM front flaps which I believe are flat.

We have very dirty winters here and they stop a lot of the slop from spraying down the side.

I believe the camera settings are on the MS-CAN bus.

A cheap ELM 327 can be modified to access that bus, you don't have to have the $80 adapter

The trick is finding a cheap device that will work properly. I have one and I am currently wiring in a switch, i will be posting details soon if it works (and later if it doesn't).

There are websites that will calculate the difference in diameter between two size tires if you want to confirm.

I don't think the PRNDS illuminates (it is repeated in the dash) but I could be wrong.

I could be from a drink holder. The front on only has one but the back one should have two.

I have the same problem, code P0455. I asked the dealer about the emissions warranty when it i was in for an oil change. and they said it covers the replacement of parts but not cleaning a dirty filler.

I cleaned it as per the youtube video but it didn't help, so held it open, sprayed WD40 and tried to wipe it a bit

I an waiting for the test to run again.. It is taking a while as the EVAP cycle won't run on my normal commute (it needs 45-65 MPH for 10 minutes without hills or sharp turns, throttle partial and fuel level between 15 and 85%).

I suspect it isn't the filler or it is something that can't be cleaned.

I got the 'check fuel inlet'' message once in a while before the light came on, then when the light was on, then again before the test had run.. t only happened on the highway, perhaps it reflects a pending code?

I have one of those rubber covers (eBay from the US for ~$6).

I still had the panic alarm going off and the hatch opening occasionally, so I wrapped some electrical tape around the bottom two buttons, and it hasn't happened since.

The rubber raises the edge up and with the tape bridging the buttons, it takes more pressure to active them.

I have a little stick type fob for paying for gas on the ring. I think that may have been hitting the buttons inadvertently.