Eugenie39

I am writing this DIY hoping that it will be of some help to someone. I had a 2002 E46 325I with the squeaking condition when you release the brake pedal. After replacing the non-return valve, I determined it was a faulty brake booster causing this noise. I searched and searched and searched on this and other forums and could find no one who had replaced their brake booster on these E46's. So here's how I did it. I would love to have put pictures up with this but frankly I just dont have the time to do that. 1. Disconnect the battery. 2. Remove the microfilter lid on the front bulkead as well as the housing with the four torx screws. Also remove the vacuum line going to the booster and the non return valve. 3. I then removed the top portion of the control module box that's on the driver's fender behind the shock tower. It seemed to give me a little more room. 4. Siphon the brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir. 5.Remove the brake lines at the master cylinder. 6. Unscrew the nuts that hold the master cylinder to the booster and remove the master cylinder. 7. Remove the brake lines at the abs/dsc control unit, taking note of where they go. Disconnect the electrical connector from the abs/dsc control unit. 8. There is a bracket with a 10mm bolt that holds the abs/dsc control unit in. Remove the bolt and pull the unit out. 9. Now from inside the car under the dash, remove the screws necessary to pull the trim above your feet around the pedals out. 10. Remove the bracket that has the stop light switch by taking out the 10mm bolt. 11. Disconnect the brake pedal return spring. 12. Pull off the retaining clip that holds the brake push rod to the pedal. 13. The push rod WILL NOT come off all the way without first removing all three nuts that hold the pedal bracketry to the firewall and dash. Two of the nuts are on the firewall that hold the booster and pedal bracket together, the other one is up above the pedal on a stud in the dash. Until you take this last one out, the pedal will not pivot enough for the pusher rod to clear the safety bar that is welded to the pedal "you'll see what i mean if you ever do this" 14. Ok now pull the booster out being very careful not to damage anything. It is tight and confined but it will come out. Put the non return valve back on the new booster. 15. Reverse all this to reinstall everything. 16. There is a special procedure for bleeding the brakes on these cars that requires the GT1 or DIS that the dealer has. It may be possible to do it without this on some vehicles but it's good to be aware of it. 17. Hope this helps. I would have loved to find something like this when I did it.

Would like to trade these 22s and my stock 4wd blazer rims with almost NEW tires(235/75/15) with MAYBE 1000 miles on them for a set of c5 wheels w/tires or set of GOOD sawblades w/ tires, prefer the c5s. Would like to keep it somewhat local if possible. I just want rid of the 2s and my stockers. Two of the 22s have slight bends in them just enough for them to not hold air. Will get pics of them next time I go to storage. But below is a pic of what they look like as well as the stockers.

I believe 19s are the perfect dimension on both the S-197 as well as SN-95. I don't mind Twenties around the S-197s, however the 19s allow for a bit more sidewall whilst not looking not big enough for the wheelwell. Even though it is just 1", it's a noteworthy distinction on possibly bodystyle. A 19" FR500 DD could be fairly sweet, however i additionally recall a person publishing a poll a few years back in regards to a potential brand new wheel for the newest Mustangs, that we believed looked fantastic. It had been the 5-spoke design as well as was not a duplicate wheel through what I remember. Does this ring a bell whatsoever? I think said design would be a good 19" contender. Not that a person asked, but the only difficulty I can see in gaining customers may be the pricing with regard to 19" wheels. I've not looked them upward recently, however i determine they still maintain a premium to more popular sizes such as Twenties and 18s.