milosm

I had simular problems, contacted ford customer service in Detroit and they asked for my VIN #. They came back and told me to go back to the dealer and have the computer reflashed, and that rev 3 did not cover the bugs my car had when it was manufactured.I had the car reflashed,I have not had any problems since.

Get your cars computer reflashed ,I think it will solve your problem Doug

I had similar problems my MFT SYNC in that about every three weeks after installing the REV 3 up date, my radio would take a big dump where nothing would function as advertised. I would have to do a factory reset to correct the problems. I called the sync customer service rep. in Detroit and was asked for my VIN number they came back and said then when my car was built it had a few software file problems that Rev 3 did not address and that I should take it back to the Ford dealer and have the computer REFLASHED. The service rep went thru my car and found three files that needed to be corrected. The car now performs as advertised, no more problems.

The posted drag coefficient for a edge is 0.37 and for a truck that’s not too bad, I believe that for cars it’s something around 0.2 something.

I have a 2011 w/3.5L V6 , and a 2005 Cadi. with a 450 V8 north star engine and they both get around the same MPG ,17 in town and 27 on the road. Now, looking at it from a dumb old country boys view point. The way I see it, if you get a tape measure and measure from the bottom of the air dam to the top of the hood, and widest point on the leading edge of each fender, and to the math you get something 15 to 16 square feet. Now look at the profile of the front end and again from the top looking down, you will notice that there is very little aerodynamics. Its like pushing the air out from in front of you with a barn door, and the faster you go the bigger the door gets.

The area front end of the Cadi. Is less then half of the Edge and weighs as much if not more then the Edge.

One other thing look at the size of the wheel wells, they are sized for the tires of 22” wheels, if you are using the smaller 18” wheeled tires, the wheel wells act like air brakes

Similar to the ones on aircraft. Every thing you do in life is a trade off, .

I have a problem similar to yours, after I installed the A3 up grade everything worked fine for about a week, and then it took a dump. The only thing that work is the XM & FM, it sees what is playing in the in the two mp3 slots but only the sound from the XM or FM comes through. Same when you press CD and A/V .

When I installed the A3 up grade I called it in, and while talking to them I asked for a number I could call if I have a problem. I was told to call 800-392-3673, the sweet young thing gave me a case number and told me to try a factory reset and repair the phone. And if that didn’t work to call their tech dept at 1-800-392-3673, and that they would get back with me. Doug.

I've had a week or 2 with the upgrade and am glad there are some improvements.

It is clear that Ford needs to still spend some time with the Blue Tooth Audio. It has it's good times but then it still has some pretty bad times.

Touch forgets that it was playing BT Audio when I got out of the car and decides to give me a random source the next time I'm driving.

While the randomly selected FM source is playing, I select BT (the button shows I selected BT) but FM is still playing.

Once I get BT selected, the on screen controls may or may not work. I have to dig the phone out of my pocket and hit play on the phone.

 

It's improved some but it is still a pain in the ass (and dangerous) to have to pull my phone out of my pocket and control my phone manually.

 

I think the fact that the BT Audio source being on screen 2 of the sources kinda tells you where the priorities were in the design & development.

 

 

Ford...

Bring BT Audio to the main screen!

Do I really need to see the CD audio source if there is nothing in the drive? (Same goes for A/V source)

Do I need to see USB devices that aren't plugged in?

Do I need to see the Sirius source if I'm not subscribed

Get ypur self a window spring rod from K-MARTS that will open up to 60in. weave it around the elastic bands that would normally attach to theheadrest and install it as normal , you can now lower the back seats without removing the cover. Doug.

 

 

I know this is very piddly but it is a thorn in my side. My 2011 MKX has the cheapest plastic cargo cover I have ever seen. To secure the cover (which is, literally, a cheap piece of plastic type material, kind of like very bad faux leather) you have to slide the attached elastic bands over the rear seat headrests and then you have to cram plastic hooks between the rear side windows and inside plastic panel to secure the side of the cover. At the trunk end you secure the cover with elastic cords on the same hooks that the cargo netting attaches to. With the cargo cover in place you can not put the rear seats down because the elastic bands are attached to the headrest. I am completely disappointed that Ford/Lincoln would stoop to such a shoddy design and material. Do any of you with the Edge have a cargo cover and, if so, it is the same type material and process to "instal"?

 

I am so annoyed that I FINALLY have a luxury vehicle and it has Yugo accessories!

 

Katherine

Just go to K-Marts and get a window spring rod that wil open up to 60 in. ,weave it around the elastic bands and install it behind the rear head rests just aft of the safety bets. You can now drop the back seats and stil hae the cargo cover up. Doug.

Well I got some more info from the seller. I had sent him some photos of our 2011 cargo area showing that it appears to be different than what they show in the Ebay auction and requested more detailed pics of the install. He wasn't able to provide those but did provide this picture of the installation and translation.

 

Parts

A, the rear cargo cover

B, The base connecting with the car

C, The rear base connecting with the car

D, handle bar of the rear cargo cover

E, rear seat of the car

F, REAR hook working with part C

G, the car door

 

Install guide

step 1, fix B1, B2 & A, make sure the distance between A & E is 2-3cm, locate the B1 at place of proper height.

step 2, after fixing the B1 into the car, ask another person to pull the cover to proper location of the rear cargo box door, make sure the distance from F1 to the car and distance from F2 to the car is equal. another person locate the B1 & B2 at the same height place.

step 3, pull D to the proper location of the rear cargo box door, and locate the C1 at the same hight place of B1

step 4, hook the F1 on the above of C1, pull open the cover then fix C2

 

There is install parts(screws etc.,) coming with the cover

 

Just not sure I am willing to spend $100 on something that will require me to screw into the cargo area, especially when I can't confirm the fit is good in the first place. Oh well, thought this might be useful to someone who is more adventuresome than me.

thank you, sir!

I went to the ford dealer, got a bottom a paint to match grill and about half a pint of tri-coat paint( for touch up) from their paint shop and air brushed it. The total price was a little over $100.00

The ground has been cleaned,rebolted. Reads a dead short between neg battery terminal and anywhere on vehicle. still the christmas tree dash

When you put the winter tires on, were they on new rims? If they are there may not be any TPM’s in them. If you used the same rims, you could have damaged one of the tire pressure monitors.

I’m not sure, you may have to go to the dealer and have them reset if you didn’t put the wheels back in the same position they came off of.

That’s the problem I’m having with my Cadi. One is not working and the computer can’t read any of them. If you have to get a new monitor, take some heart meds. with you. They run any ware from $60 to $80 each, I was also told that the batteries in them are only good for 5 to 6 years.

If you read what I quoted you'll see that a clogged air filter does not cause poor mpg in modern cars. That was true with carburetors but not any more.

If someone noticed a fuel improvement when changing to a new filter its because he has a (open loop) carbureted engine. In a closed loop system you would not see a change in fuel efficiency. In a fuel injected car you have a oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold that would sense the rich air to fuel mixture due to a dirty filter and tell the injectors to lean the air/fuel mixture to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio.

It's hard to say exactly how much brighter the lights are - maybe 3 - 4 times brighter? There's only one high power LED in the original assembly firing vertically through the diffuser, while the new unit has 5 LED's. Either way, they're bright enough that if I'm stopped behind a car on a sunny day, I can see their reflection quite clearly. The other reason that I went through all the effort to add them in is that at night, I wanted them to more closely match my HIDs. With this setup, they're both in the 6000K range, rather than the sickly yellow that the stock lights put out.

 

Here's a link to the DRL kit I used.. Since the auto-sensing wiring harness wasn't working for me, I used a PST-DC2171 DC to DC converter from PowerStream to drive it at 15V. If you want it brighter still, you can drive it at either 18V or 24V but I'm not sure how long the LEDs would last.

 

Here's a picture of the power supply mounted behind the dash just to the left of the glove box. The 3 switches (2 blue, 1 red) just in front are for controlling whether or not the LEDs or HIDS come on while the engine is running. The third switch is my MFT reset switch (basically installed inline with fuse 29). The switches are hidden by the glove box cover but accessible when you open it..

 

It seems like other people were having problems with the DRL switch, they just cut it out and connected to the ignition switch. You could do the same by tapping off system power at fuse#89(in the relay/fuse box under the hud) its only hot when the car is running. The lights would be on as long as you’re driving, as they are now and save you the price of a power supply.

If you wanted them on only when tever the lights are on, connect them to the old vertical bar LED power source.

It you want to change brightness for day and night driving I post a simple sketch that would change the LED’s from parallel to series connection and reduce brightness by half.

Very nice. It's crazy how much safer you are with real DRL like the ones you have. People really see you during the day. When I get some time I will be retrofitting the stock light bars with similar lights. Either the OEM Phillips kit http://www.amazon.com/Philips-12820WLEDX1-DayLight-Powered-Daytime/dp/B005DX6BRK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1324248093&sr=8-3 or the lightwerkz one http://shop.lightwerkz.net/LED-Daytime-Running-Light

 

Some of the lighting forums are highly impressed with the lightwerkz kit. It's almost the same as the phillips kit and suspected to come from the same factory. Use shared components.

 

The Phillips 8 led kit is a little more than I want to spend bit it's great. http://www.amazon.com/Philips-12824WLEDX1-DayLight-Powered-Daytime/dp/B005DX6BKW/ref=pd_sim_auto_1

I see where you got the inspiration to retrofit your vertical light bars. Being an dumb old country boy, thats just a lot of work that I do not want to get into. The approaches Frybel and Dr.edge took, both have their merits. I believe that Frybels retrofit would be more functional in a bright sunny day and you would be able to see the lights at any distance. On the other hand Dr.edges approach is more aesthetic and gives the untouched OEM appearance by leaving the diffuser tube and it may do just that and diffuse the light to where its only effective at night. (I hope Im wrong) At this point and time only Dr.edge knows since there are no additional photos.

I think what Frybel & Dr.edge did is outstanding and will get a lot of other retrofitters thinking with all the data they provided in their posts.

After reviewing both Frybel and Dr.edges photos, correct me if Im wrong (and Im wrong a lot), I could see no reason for Dr. edge to remove the lens assembly since he was not removing the diffuser tube, when all he had to do was cut a slot in the gray case behind the diffuser tube wide enough for the LED elements to shine thru and secure (RTV, JB kwik plastic) the LED light strip assembly in place. You would have the same effect.

AS you can see I went a different route, it started out removing the bottom chrome grill and replacing it with a paint to match one, it made a big difference as you can see. Since I was removing the shroud to change out the grill, I decided to add LEDs I went with www.superbrightleds.com part No.drl-cw5-bm2 three wires to connect ground,12 volts ,and headlights. For the 12volt supply I went into the relay/fuse box in the engine compartment and connected it to spare fuse position #89( it is active whenever the system power is on (the key switch). The other wire was spliced into the yellow parking light (yellow/ green wire at the bulb socket) with a splice connecter. The LEDs come on full brightness when the car is started, and dim whenever the parking or headlights are on. Mounting the lights was also very easy all I did was cut the mounting brackets that came with them in half, re bend the screw tabs, drill a new hole in the bracket and screw it to the back side of the grill grading.

One thing I did notice is that the angle of the LEDs is critical due to the reflectors narrow beam, one or two degrees in either direction will affect lights brightness.

If I were you I would upgrade them to the more powerfull DRL version that some owners have used to modify the exisiting light bars. They are copies of the same DRL lights in the porsche 997 models. Much brighter and serve as a functional DRL.

Well Alpine I did just that, I got a pair of LED light bars fromSuperbrtghtleled.com mounted them behind the grill grading along side the FORD emblem. They come on full brightness when you start the car and dim down when the headlights are turned on.

I've found that if my system is messed up, I have to reset MFT.

Some ways are more simple than others.

As an expert MFT owner, I say that the best thing you can do to version 2.11 is the reboot it (or fuse 29 pull).

A major ritual with the battery cables is un called for.

 

UPDATE: Grammars

I also said that you would have to disconnect the battery ( or pull fuse29 as you said) for longer then 30 min's to allow the voltage on the bus filter capacitors to discharge. the question is would be if 30min. is long enought to solve the problem. I was just saying that shorting the cables would be instantaneous. How long do you pull fuse 29?

Like I said. Hard Core... just to get the MFT to work like it should.

I hate resetting the plethora of setting in the Edge.

repairing the phone and re-saving radio stations are bad enough. Don't forget the other settings...

Backup camera,

Auto Start,

Liftgate,

Lock/unLock,

Display brightness,

....

you get the idea.

The things you mentioned above with the exception of display brightness are set up in the MFT system bias(burned into a computer chip), not in memory.and would not reset during reboot.

Like I said a hard reboot solved my problems and erloading my phone and radio stations only took 5 min. and my problem has not returned since July.

That's pretty hard core!

You most likely lost more settings than the radio and phone.

 

Keep us posted on how it works for you.

[/quot

 

If you think about it the, MFT is nothing more then a computer and like all computers susceptible to gliches( power surges,and whatever else that may cause it to get corrupted signal)

just just like your home or laptop computer, you removed its power , (turning it off will not do it.,because there is power still going to the MFT SYNK memory) When you reboot it will clears them and takes you back to factory reset, just the way it was when you recieved it. Reloading your datd is a small price to pay if to clear your problems.

By disconnecting the cables,and shorting them together , you canot hurt anything. check it out. I have a 2005 Cadi.that a 12v lt cooler discharged the battery over night . After Jumpstarting the car , the engine and it's controles worked fine

but nothing controled by the computer functioned correctly. I removed the battery cables and shorted them together , this shorted the plus and minus busses in the computer discharging the capacitor and clearing memory of any error signals. Allowing car and onboard computer to function correctly when restarted

I have had so many issues it's hard to remember them all. Bought mine in January 2011

 

1. Stopped talking

2. Screen going blank

3. Screen working but no radio.

4. Back up camera working on and off

5. Ambient lighting changing but that's the least of my worry's

6. Accelerating and Braking on it's own

7.Nav telling me constantly I'm off route when the map is showing me right where it's telling me to go

8. At least 3 times a day it wants to do a health report but when I push ok it's says it can't

9. Drivers side power seat stopped working

10. I gave up on syncing to my phone.

Been in and out of the shop at least 9 times now. It's back in the shop now since Thurs.

LOL been a very loyal Ford customer for over 30 years... But this is going a bit to far

I also have a 2011 edge limited and was having some problems with my MFT sync but not like what you have, I did the onboard reboot per the screen with no help.

I then did a hard reboot,by disconnecting both battery terminals from the battery and shorted them together for about 30 sec. to discharge any copacitors in the computer(you could do the same by leaving the leads disconnected for 30 min.).I reconnected to the battery . when you do this ,you take the sync(computer back tofactory settings)everything began to function correctly you will have to repair your phone and radio stations.

Thanks Richy, I'm always happy to help where I can.

I had a simular problem with a cadi. after a 12volt cooler discharged the battery over night, the car was jump started the bext morning, and nothing worked except the basic engine controls. I took it to cadi. garage where they disconnected both the + and - cables from the battery , and shorted the cables together for ten seconds and reconnected the battery. that solved the broblem.

Shorting of the cables together discharged any stray (compacitor) voltages' in the computer causing it to do a hard reboot .

All you would have to do after that is reload your radio stations and phone contacts.

I also had a problem with my MFT where the home screen got corrupted and nothing worked,did the above and corrected my problem.

Thanks for all the info I now have a lot to think about, and if its worth all the work. Doug.

I would like to lower the my edge about 2" , it would help my wife get in .does anyone know of a 3rd party kit I could install, and what would it take? Doug.

I live in the states so I don't get DRLs. From what I've heard, the service tech can choose one of 3 options for the DRLs. Amber parking lamps, Dim headlamps, & one other combination that I think includes the LED lights.

I got my 2011 edge limited in july, I live in Florida like you I also dont have any DRL's. I checked into it and found that the led lights are not DRL's , they are front fender markers whatever that is. The only time they and the orange parking lamps come on is only when turn on the parking lights or the headlamps.

I went a different way in that i purchased a set of LED-DRL's from www.superbrightled.com part number (DRL-CW5-bm2), I'm having them mounted behind the grill grading next to the FORD emblem they just fit, they will come on bright whenever your driving and will dimm down when ever the headlamps are turned on. the power for the LED's will come from the main electrical buss once the car is started , for dimming I'm going to tap off voltage from the orange parking light which comes on with the head lights. Doug.

I live in the states so I don't get DRLs. From what I've heard, the service tech can choose one of 3 options for the DRLs. Amber parking lamps, Dim headlamps, & one other combination that I think includes the LED lights.

I got my 2011 edge limited in july, I live in Florida like you I also dont have any DRL's. I checked into it and found that the led lights are not DRL's , they are front fender markers whatever that is. The only time they and the orange parking lamps come on is only when turn on the parking lights or the headlamps.

I went a different way in that i purchased a set of LED-DRL's from www.superbrightled.com part number (DRL-CW5-bm2), I'm having them mounted behind the grill grading next to the FORD emblem they just fit, they will come on bright whenever your driving and will dimm down when ever the headlamps are turned on. the power for the LED's will come from the main electrical buss once the car is started , for dimming I'm going to tap off voltage from the orange parking light which comes on with the head lights. Doug.

Nice review. Thanks

I was thinking about some kind of shield to decrease the glare and finger prints. I had a film on my Camry's screen and loved it.

You say this one is glossy. Does it help to cut the glare when the sun is shining on it?

I looked on the website but didn't see a 2011 Edge option. can you provide the part number that you purchased?

I had the same problem with glare and finger prints. I went on line to PHOTODON.COM and ordered a matt screen shield for a netbook(10.1") screen and cut it to fit with a paper cutter,the film was only .006" thick and designed for touch screens.

Just follow photodon's instructions and you shouldn't have any problems. All I can say now is no glare and finger prints. Doug.