milosm

I had simular problems, contacted ford customer service in Detroit and they asked for my VIN #. They came back and told me to go back to the dealer and have the computer reflashed, and that rev 3 did not cover the bugs my car had when it was manufactured.I had the car reflashed,I have not had any problems since. Get your cars computer reflashed ,I think it will solve your problem Doug

I had similar problems my MFT SYNC in that about every three weeks after installing the REV 3 up date, my radio would take a big dump where nothing would function as advertised. I would have to do a factory reset to correct the problems. I called the sync customer service rep. in Detroit and was asked for my VIN number they came back and said then when my car was built it had a few software file problems that Rev 3 did not address and that I should take it back to the Ford dealer and have the computer REFLASHED. The service rep went thru my car and found three files that needed to be corrected. The car now performs as advertised, no more problems.

The posted drag coefficient for a edge is 0.37 and for a truck that’s not too bad, I believe that for cars it’s something around 0.2 something. I have a 2011 w/3.5L V6 , and a 2005 Cadi. with a 450 V8 north star engine and they both get around the same MPG ,17 in town and 27 on the road. Now, looking at it from a dumb old country boys view point. The way I see it, if you get a tape measure and measure from the bottom of the air dam to the top of the hood, and widest point on the leading edge of each fender, and to the math you get something 15 to 16 square feet. Now look at the profile of the front end and again from the top looking down, you will notice that there is very little aerodynamics. Its like pushing the air out from in front of you with a barn door, and the faster you go the bigger the door gets. The area front end of the Cadi. Is less then half of the Edge and weighs as much if not more then the Edge. One other thing look at the size of the wheel wells, they are sized for the tires of 22” wheels, if you are using the smaller 18” wheeled tires, the wheel wells act like air brakes Similar to the ones on aircraft. Every thing you do in life is a trade off, .

I have a problem similar to yours, after I installed the A3 up grade everything worked fine for about a week, and then it took a dump. The only thing that work is the XM & FM, it sees what is playing in the in the two mp3 slots but only the sound from the XM or FM comes through. Same when you press CD and A/V . When I installed the A3 up grade I called it in, and while talking to them I asked for a number I could call if I have a problem. I was told to call 800-392-3673, the sweet young thing gave me a case number and told me to try a factory reset and repair the phone. And if that didn’t work to call their tech dept at 1-800-392-3673, and that they would get back with me. Doug.

Just go to K-Marts and get a window spring rod that wil open up to 60 in. ,weave it around the elastic bands and install it behind the rear head rests just aft of the safety bets. You can now drop the back seats and stil hae the cargo cover up. Doug.

I went to the ford dealer, got a bottom a paint to match grill and about half a pint of tri-coat paint( for touch up) from their paint shop and air brushed it. The total price was a little over $100.00

When you put the winter tires on, were they on new rims? If they are there may not be any TPM’s in them. If you used the same rims, you could have damaged one of the tire pressure monitors. I’m not sure, you may have to go to the dealer and have them reset if you didn’t put the wheels back in the same position they came off of. That’s the problem I’m having with my Cadi. One is not working and the computer can’t read any of them. If you have to get a new monitor, take some heart meds. with you. They run any ware from $60 to $80 each, I was also told that the batteries in them are only good for 5 to 6 years.

If someone noticed a fuel improvement when changing to a new filter its because he has a (open loop) carbureted engine. In a closed loop system you would not see a change in fuel efficiency. In a fuel injected car you have a oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold that would sense the rich air to fuel mixture due to a dirty filter and tell the injectors to lean the air/fuel mixture to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio.

It seems like other people were having problems with the DRL switch, they just cut it out and connected to the ignition switch. You could do the same by tapping off system power at fuse#89(in the relay/fuse box under the hud) its only hot when the car is running. The lights would be on as long as you’re driving, as they are now and save you the price of a power supply. If you wanted them on only when tever the lights are on, connect them to the old vertical bar LED power source. It you want to change brightness for day and night driving I post a simple sketch that would change the LED’s from parallel to series connection and reduce brightness by half.

I see where you got the inspiration to retrofit your vertical light bars. Being an dumb old country boy, thats just a lot of work that I do not want to get into. The approaches Frybel and Dr.edge took, both have their merits. I believe that Frybels retrofit would be more functional in a bright sunny day and you would be able to see the lights at any distance. On the other hand Dr.edges approach is more aesthetic and gives the untouched OEM appearance by leaving the diffuser tube and it may do just that and diffuse the light to where its only effective at night. (I hope Im wrong) At this point and time only Dr.edge knows since there are no additional photos. I think what Frybel & Dr.edge did is outstanding and will get a lot of other retrofitters thinking with all the data they provided in their posts. After reviewing both Frybel and Dr.edges photos, correct me if Im wrong (and Im wrong a lot), I could see no reason for Dr. edge to remove the lens assembly since he was not removing the diffuser tube, when all he had to do was cut a slot in the gray case behind the diffuser tube wide enough for the LED elements to shine thru and secure (RTV, JB kwik plastic) the LED light strip assembly in place. You would have the same effect. AS you can see I went a different route, it started out removing the bottom chrome grill and replacing it with a paint to match one, it made a big difference as you can see. Since I was removing the shroud to change out the grill, I decided to add LEDs I went with www.superbrightleds.com part No.drl-cw5-bm2 three wires to connect ground,12 volts ,and headlights. For the 12volt supply I went into the relay/fuse box in the engine compartment and connected it to spare fuse position #89( it is active whenever the system power is on (the key switch). The other wire was spliced into the yellow parking light (yellow/ green wire at the bulb socket) with a splice connecter. The LEDs come on full brightness when the car is started, and dim whenever the parking or headlights are on. Mounting the lights was also very easy all I did was cut the mounting brackets that came with them in half, re bend the screw tabs, drill a new hole in the bracket and screw it to the back side of the grill grading. One thing I did notice is that the angle of the LEDs is critical due to the reflectors narrow beam, one or two degrees in either direction will affect lights brightness.

Well Alpine I did just that, I got a pair of LED light bars fromSuperbrtghtleled.com mounted them behind the grill grading along side the FORD emblem. They come on full brightness when you start the car and dim down when the headlights are turned on.

I also said that you would have to disconnect the battery ( or pull fuse29 as you said) for longer then 30 min's to allow the voltage on the bus filter capacitors to discharge. the question is would be if 30min. is long enought to solve the problem. I was just saying that shorting the cables would be instantaneous. How long do you pull fuse 29?

The things you mentioned above with the exception of display brightness are set up in the MFT system bias(burned into a computer chip), not in memory.and would not reset during reboot. Like I said a hard reboot solved my problems and erloading my phone and radio stations only took 5 min. and my problem has not returned since July.

I also have a 2011 edge limited and was having some problems with my MFT sync but not like what you have, I did the onboard reboot per the screen with no help. I then did a hard reboot,by disconnecting both battery terminals from the battery and shorted them together for about 30 sec. to discharge any copacitors in the computer(you could do the same by leaving the leads disconnected for 30 min.).I reconnected to the battery . when you do this ,you take the sync(computer back tofactory settings)everything began to function correctly you will have to repair your phone and radio stations.

I had a simular problem with a cadi. after a 12volt cooler discharged the battery over night, the car was jump started the bext morning, and nothing worked except the basic engine controls. I took it to cadi. garage where they disconnected both the + and - cables from the battery , and shorted the cables together for ten seconds and reconnected the battery. that solved the broblem. Shorting of the cables together discharged any stray (compacitor) voltages' in the computer causing it to do a hard reboot . All you would have to do after that is reload your radio stations and phone contacts. I also had a problem with my MFT where the home screen got corrupted and nothing worked,did the above and corrected my problem.

Thanks for all the info I now have a lot to think about, and if its worth all the work. Doug.

I would like to lower the my edge about 2" , it would help my wife get in .does anyone know of a 3rd party kit I could install, and what would it take? Doug.

I got my 2011 edge limited in july, I live in Florida like you I also dont have any DRL's. I checked into it and found that the led lights are not DRL's , they are front fender markers whatever that is. The only time they and the orange parking lamps come on is only when turn on the parking lights or the headlamps. I went a different way in that i purchased a set of LED-DRL's from www.superbrightled.com part number (DRL-CW5-bm2), I'm having them mounted behind the grill grading next to the FORD emblem they just fit, they will come on bright whenever your driving and will dimm down when ever the headlamps are turned on. the power for the LED's will come from the main electrical buss once the car is started , for dimming I'm going to tap off voltage from the orange parking light which comes on with the head lights. Doug.

I got my 2011 edge limited in july, I live in Florida like you I also dont have any DRL's. I checked into it and found that the led lights are not DRL's , they are front fender markers whatever that is. The only time they and the orange parking lamps come on is only when turn on the parking lights or the headlamps. I went a different way in that i purchased a set of LED-DRL's from www.superbrightled.com part number (DRL-CW5-bm2), I'm having them mounted behind the grill grading next to the FORD emblem they just fit, they will come on bright whenever your driving and will dimm down when ever the headlamps are turned on. the power for the LED's will come from the main electrical buss once the car is started , for dimming I'm going to tap off voltage from the orange parking light which comes on with the head lights. Doug.

I had the same problem with glare and finger prints. I went on line to PHOTODON.COM and ordered a matt screen shield for a netbook(10.1") screen and cut it to fit with a paper cutter,the film was only .006" thick and designed for touch screens. Just follow photodon's instructions and you shouldn't have any problems. All I can say now is no glare and finger prints. Doug.