69fastback

Since this forum is so full of extremely helpful information for those who prefer to fix their vehicle themselves, rather than get raped by a mechanic, I'll add some information to this for people who may be doing a search for the same problem I had, which seems to be a somewhat common problem. The turbine/input shaft sensor is located in the front of the transmission, towards the drivers side of the vehicle. Like most speed sensors, it's a small back piece, held into the case by a single 8mm bolt. If you've changed speed sensors on other vehicles, you may be looking for something that has an electrical plug, but the trick to this sensor, is that the plug is actually inside the transmission, which makes this particular sensor a little more difficult to change. First you need to drain the trans fluid by removing the drain plug. The connector for the sensor is inside the black plastic main control cover on the front of the trans. In order to get to all the bolts on the cover, you'll need to remove the air box, which requires you to move a few lines and hoses around. It CAN be done without removing the coolant hoses, so leave them. It's fairly easy to get the cover off, but once you get in there, that's where the difficulties lie. The Chinese engineer that designed this, either had tiny fingers, or intended you to just throw the trans in the trash when it malfunctions. The electrical plug has to fished, and snaked through a very small channel, and then has to go through a hole that's the exact same size as the plug. The problem with that, is that by the time it gets back to that hole, you can't reach it with the single finger that you're able to push into the channel. In hind sight, I recommend to tie a string to the electrical plag of the sensor that you're removing, so it pulls it through when you remove the sensor, then tie the end of the string that you just pulled through onto the plug of the new sensor, to help guide it back through in the installation process. Once you get the old wire snaked out, and the new wire snaked back in, you've got it kicked. It took me 7 quarts to top the trans back off.

Thank you. The car has came along ways, and it's taken a lot of work to get where it is, but it's been a blast. It does pretty well, for a car that sees 6000-7000 miles per year of street duty.

Well, I've come up with a few answers, for those interested. The sensor itself is easy to get to, but not so simple to change. The fluid has to be drained, and the main control cover cover has to be removed from the transmission, because the wiring is internal, therefore you need to be able to access it from the inside simply to unplug the old sensor, and plug the new one in. The process calls for 2.8 hours, so it's quite a job just replace the sensor. Guess I'll get it done tomorrow.

I've done a search, and can't come up with anything. Can someone tell me where the sensor is located? Is it easily accessible?

Here are a few in its track shoes.

1969 rustang, 408W made 479rwhp/469rwtq N/A on 91 octane. It's been 11.3@121 slamming gears with a 4 speed toploader. It's getting some new mods, and little help from a bottle. I expect to break 9s next month when the track opens. and make no mistake about what the car is. I put over 8000 miles on it last year, on the street.

Hello, new guy with a quick question over the wheel bearing TSB. I know these threads may be a little played out, but I searched around, and didn't find what I was looking for. I have a 2008 AWD, and I'm about to replace the right rear bearing/hub assembly. I want to go ahead and replace the parts to comply with the TSB, and it seems my local dealership can't decide what all this involves. I'm doing the repairs myself, and I'm about to order parts, and I need to know if I'm supposed to replace the actual trailing arm, or just the bearing/knuckle assembly. Some of the employees read it as the trailing arm knuckle assembly, and some read it as the trailing arm AND knuckle assembly. Can I get some verification on what it is? Do I replace the actual trailing arm? One other question, is a hub assembly puller the only "specialty tool" that I need? Thanks in advance

Those number sound dead on, for a Mustnag dyno. If dyno numbers are what you seek, find a dynojet.