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Thanks everyone for your comments. I did try all of these over the weekend. Couldn't find anything loose on the underside or behind the glove compartment after removing. However, this made me remember that my Ford dealer had replaced the passenger side fender a while back after someone hit me. Since this sound is coming from exactly that area, I have significant enough reason to believe this has something to do with it. Either a bolt came loose (or not installed) or heck, maybe they left a tool in there, who knows. Will have to see if they are willing to have a look or maybe I tear it apart myself. Either way, I think I'm on the right track now so thanks for all you help here!

These are both excellent items to check. Will investigate both and update....

Good morning fellow Edge owners! I have an issue that has been going on for a couple of years now in my 2010 Limited (now 70k mls) and has been driving my wife and I bonkers! Though I'd ask if anyone else has experienced the same. It only occurs when driving over 65mph and head-in to the wind, but it is a rattling noise coming from the passenger side behind the glove compartment. When we open the glove compartment the noise becomes much louder so that's how I know it is somewhere back there. It almost sounds like a piece of tin clattering up against another piece of tin. But only when air is being forced into the engine compartment (or from up underneath). I can't find a single loose item in the engine compartment or from below. I almost think it is a door flap in the HVAC tubing somewhere but I thought that is all plastic. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Joe

Just wanted to add an update here to see if anyone has any suggestions. So I've managed to obtain a wiring diagram and factory mirror harness pinout from my service advisor at the dealer, see attached. I'm still trying to get the message center to stop giving me the compass missing warning every time I start the vehicle. It looks like pins 2 and 6 are for the compass. So far I've tried connecting them with a 100, 1k, 10k, 1MEG ohm resistors and no luck. Bravely, I took it a step further and also connected 2 to 10 (ground), then 6 to 10 with all the same loads, still no go. I also, ditched the resistor theory, and shorted 2 and 6 with no luck still. I suppose I could try something much smaller like 10 or 20 ohms, will have to obtain. Just wondering if anyone has any experience attempting this... Oh, yes, just FYI, dealer has confirmed there is no disabler flag in the programming to silence this message btw, which is why I'm still chasing this.

Correct, the compass in the message center isn't there anymore after I clear the red flag message upon vehicle start. That's fine, that is a fair trade off for proof to others' insurance companies of my honest driving. I've thought about installing the circuit board from the factory mirror into the headliner to resolve this but the thing seems to be 1 sealed unit. I do not want to destroy it in the event I want to re-install it down the road. The resistor idea briefly floated around my head in the past but don't know which pins to cross on the factory harness, any ideas?

So I recently replaced my factory rear view mirror with an aftermarket model with a built-in dvr and front facing camera. It constantly records both the front and rear cameras. My problem now, is that whenever I start the engine, the message center says "Compass Not Detected", (even though the digital compass on the map works fine), and I have to press the reset button on the dash to clear it. Kind of annoying so when brought to the dealer they said that the ECU would have to be reprogrammed for about $150 and IF there is a disabler for that flag then it could be done. My question is, has anyone attempted to use a programming module on their Edge and if so, what were you attempting and was it successful? Are there any recommendations on ECU programmers? Joe

Just had this Curt installed a few months ago at a local truck accessory shop here in Austin. I tow a bass boat once in a while but mostly use it for my bike rack. I've owned others in the past on every single vehicle I've owned but this one seems a bit on the big side, as my bike rack seems to float inside it. Therefore, I usually use wooden shims to absorb most of the space on the right and left when using my bike rack. Kind of a pain but works well.

Hi Alpine, just got in this identical setup with 54" tracks and have a couple of questions for you. First, did you have to drill through 2 layers of metal to get the flare-nuts to drop down in fully? So far I've only drilled the back and front holes on 1 side. The back hole had 2 layers and front had 3. Both times this meant going all the way into the cabin. I called Rackattack and they said they have to do this all the time and to just pack that hole full of silicon. They tell me they have had only one car begin to leak in hundreds. Last, did that flaring tool work well for you? It did for me on the first one, however, on my second hole the flare-nut just spins around inside it's hole, no matter how much downward pressure I apply. Now I've already burned through 2 additional flare-nuts attempting to get it to take, with no luck. Needless to say, now I will need to order another package of flare-nuts to complete this, AND I think the hole is now to wallowed out to take one without that professional gun/tool that they use in the install video on the Rackattack website. There is no doubt in my mind this is the tool the installers use on a daily basis, as the one that comes in the package seems like a sad, sad joke. Let me know what you think!

Looks very sharp, liked it so much I just ordered the identical setup this morning for my 2010! Will post install pics soon for sure! Correction, I ordered the 54" tracks instead.