mrgrouper

I would look closely at the rear calipers.  They might be partially siezed.

RockAuto

I had the same issue after a booster change.  The pedal was low and spongy.  Backing up briskly and stomping on the brakes hard enough to activate the ABS, two or three times, fixed the issue with me.

JM

You can bleed the ABS controller by activating the ABS in reverse.  Back up briskly and hammer the brake peddle.  Do this 2 o 3 times and all will be well.

Audi frequently understates a vehicles actual horsepower.

That's just wrong in so many ways.  Total nonsense.

I had the exact same issue with my rear brakes. Rust had formed on the caliper bracket underneath the clips. This caused the clips to press too tightly on the brake pads causing them to not release completely. The solution was to grind away the rust on the bracket, underneath the clips, and remove an additional 5 MM of material from the bracket Liberally coat the bracket underneath the clip with anti-seize to stop future rust. This allows the pads to move more freely and not drag. I also cleaned and greased, with synthetic brake grease, the caliper slide pins and thoroughly cleaned the holes or apertures that the pins slide into.

Fixed my brake issue.

The latest Sync update 3.8 seems to have removed Sirius Travel Link. Is this a Canadian thing because I frequently travel long distances in the USA. Any idea how to get it back?

JM

I did have it with 3.6 but with the 3.8 update travel link is gone. Kinda not happy because we just drove across the USA. Would have been useful. Thanks Ford.

I had the same issue with the rear brakes of my 2012 Edge. There are two problem areas; the pins the caliper slides on can sieze if not regularly cleaned and lubricated and, rust can form on the caliper bracket underneath the pad anti-rattle clips. When rust forms it moves the clip reducing the space available for the brake pads to move. The pads need to move freely in the caliper bracket. Address these two issues with proper cleaning, grease and anti-sieze compound and your overheating brake problem should go away.

Cheers

Just so you know the foam engine cover makes an ideal roof for a rodents nest. My Edge was parked for two days. I went to start it and all sorts of lights went off on the dash, including check engine. A rodent of some kind decided to make a nest underneath the intake manifold and also chewed through the wire harness to the CHT sensor. Vehicle was not drivable, P1269 error. Not cheap to fix as the upper and lower intake manifold has to be removed to get to the sensor. If you live in the country and park your vehicle outside get ride of the foam engine cover. Just saying.

JM

I used a 35W kit from Absolute HID. The kit used Canbus Pro Ballasts and 9006 bulbs. Absolute HID threw in an inexpensive 9006 relay harness. I changed the harness main feed wire from the relay to the battery to a 12 guage wire. The original was only 18 guage. When I installed the system the relay buzzed when the lights were in DRL mode so I installed a 1100MFD capacitor I had lying around on the switch side of the relay (you could use anything from 1100MFD to 4700MFD). That fixed the DRL buzz. Never had a buzz when the lights were full on. The only other issue I had was the cheap relay that came with the harness would occasionally stick on so I replaced that and all has been well since. When you use a relay you don't really need to use a canbus ballast. I did just because the Canbus Pro Ballasts were a better quality with a low failure rate.

This is what the ballast looks like...

http://www.google.ca/imgres?sa=X&biw=1520&bih=964&tbm=isch&tbnid=tq_nK4v6sk1pMM%3A&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fredchariot.ie%2Fhid-ballasts%2F140-1x-hid-xenon-replacement-canbus-pro-ballast-12v-35w-.html&docid=z5bZtsrkOxvm3M&imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fredchariot.ie%2F140-1266-thickbox%2F1x-hid-xenon-replacement-canbus-pro-ballast-12v-35w-.jpg&w=800&h=537&ei=5HgsU-r5GaTgyQHC94HgAg&zoom=1&ved=0CFMQhBwwAA&iact=rc&dur=823&page=1&start=0&ndsp=33

Cheers

I did both. I used canbus ballasts that worked by themselves well with lights on normal and on DRL. I was paranoid about screwing up the electrical system so I also installed a relay. I changed the relay harness battery feed wire from 18 guage to 12 guage just to be sure the ballasts get enough juice on initial start-up. This set up has worked flawlessly from day one.

John

So what was the outcome?

I have the same issue with return wire shadow at 0800. When I installed the 9012 HID bulbs I seem to recall that the base or socket was riveted to the projector housing.

JM

My 2012 Edge has the ambient lighting issue. So if there is a data retention error in the APIM, what is the fix? New APIM or new SYNC software? if I go to the dealer with this issue what will they do?

Let us know how it works out.

John

So took the Edge to the dealer for an oil change. The said, without even looking at the vehicle, that the ticking noise was inherent to the engine and was perfectly normal. I suppose I'll live with it.

JM

I'm using 5w20 oil supplied by the dealer. The oil level is fine and does not drop between oil changes. I'm going to take it to the dealer in a couple of weeks but from everything I've read about Ford resolving engine noise issues, I'm not to optimistic they are going to fix the issue without dragging their feet.

Here a better capture of the tapping noise. The engine sounds fine from a cold startup but after five minutes it starts tapping as in the attached video. The tapping never really goes away.

enginesound2.mp3

Engine tick when hot. It's sort of hard to hear. Sometimes it is a bit lounder. Is this normal?

enginesound.mp3

My 2012 Edge with the standard 3.5L engine makes mild ticking noise when fully warmed up. It has done this since day one. In fact if I let it idle for a while it seems to get louder. It's definately not injectors. It is a bit more noticeable from the right front wheel well. Anyone with the same noise and did you have any luck getting it fixed?

Thanks