wannabang

Sure. Wire from third brake light to tails' brake lights. Wire from current tail to the new turn signals. That'd be my first test, yeah?

They do look great and they fill out the wheel well extremely well. Very nice!

That's how I felt after taking the SEL off. The font looks good on the back.

Don't look for them at best buy, that's why it's so much more. I bought all the components and paid a small shop to install it. My system isn't a "new" system either, but still works as it should. Check out amazon!

Fully installed for about $250 ish. Got the system from Amazon for $180, and installed for $70... if my memory serves me correctly. Not including the prox sensor.

I have a Viper system with a proximity sensor. My system works to and from the vehicle with a mile range. The proximity sensor can be adjusted and there are plenty of other additions to Viper systems. The guys who installed mine hid it behind the rear view mirror and it's maybe a 3x3 inch square at the top of my windshield, which really doesn't bother me. Its key is your typical vehicle key with an extra piece for operations of the system, but I don't have a very cluttered key chain, so that doesn't bother me either.

Also, the less coats you put on, the harder it will be to peel off.

Hence the rubbing.

The only issue with PD is in light coats, you can rub a hole in it with enough pressure, which is why Cellbine recommended so many coats. It will definitely protect against chips, but you'd probably have to remove and reapply it every so often if you're rubbing softball bags and dinging it with your golf bag constantly.

You can replace them with the '09-'10 vents which work better horizontally, but not as well vertically.

Would I have the same wiring issues if I were to get these as I would if I would have just swapped out mine for the stock second gen tails?

Wannbang - the problem with "velcro for my HID ballasts" assuming that you're in the engine bay is heat. The heat levels inside the engine bay are high enough that it'll test any adhesive short of an epoxy (thinking JB-Weld) In the engine bay you're better off with mechanical attachment methods.

Right right. Took a look inside and I'm glad I also tied them up. lol

One's a Rand Paul sticker, the other is my university. I have a thing for window stickers... I think I like it the way it is, so thanks! I was thinking about putting the letters back on, though. The mod isn't really worth ALL that much, to me.

...unfortunately I won't be able to answer that for your, since I put in a new headunit the week I got it. lol I can still use the steering wheel controls and it does show contact names (my new one).

I'm pretty sure mine was listed at just under $21k.... and yeah, $19k flat, inclusive of taxes and all. Sounds like you're getting a deal!

That's almost exactly like mine when I bought it. An hour away, just under $21k, and came with a warranty, although yours is better and I've never had to use mine. What's the mileage, year, and drive-type. AWD or FWD.

 

Too Funny! Do you think I have PD on my mind 24/7? LOL

 

Figured it was a safe bet... lol Thought you might have enough just laying around.

Would PD ruin the reception? lol

Yeah. The second gen Edge requires the purchase of a new dash part that reorganizes all the buttons to allow the owner to replace the stereo, and it's offered by Metra.

Check out any of the threads that I've started. It's a gorgeous color. My warranty was offered inclusive of the price the dealer wanted for it. It was a Ford dealer, though.

I have an '08. No brake issues here... You could definitely find an SEL with ~60k for $19k. I got my SEL last year for $19k flat with 69k on it. No leather or power liftgate, though. Others have had better luck, though. My car came with a three year, 30k mile warranty since I purchased it from a dealer. I say pull the trigger. You'll be happy ya did.

Time to go aftermarket and build what you want. In your first gen MKX, it is a LOT easier.

This.

It's important to note that, while the stereo may be able to handle playing at "max", the speakers don't have the volume knob on them, meaning, they take whatever signal the head unit gives them. Usually, beyond 3/4 max volume, the signal sent out from the head unit is clipped, meaning it is a squared off sine wave. This is damaging to the speakers, and I'm quite surprised that they are "smart" enough to do something about it. All of my aftermarket systems would just shut down or blow up. lol

I would say it is not normal to play anything at max volume...ever. Not sure about the sound wave-type fading, but you're definitely clipping and damaging your sub. Your regular door speakers aren't built to handle much lower than ~200 hz, so if you have the bass cranked and the high pass filter off, or no high pass filter, you're probably damaging or have blown your door speakers. ...How does that sound good?

Looks good. Any thought to trying the glossifier? I definitely vote to to the grille.

The HIDs are totally worth it. It only took me 30 minutes to install, too.

Man, had this come out last year, I'd have a 2nd gen... I'm huge into audio, but wanted to put in my own touch screen... I love this! Cannot stand how cluttered the second gen dash looks, like I want to drive an alien spacecraft, but this is brilliant!

Not sure about the second gens, but my 18s are still pretty loud inside the car. I think our cars look nicer with bigger wheels. If yours are messed up, definitely get some new ones, and try to avoid the curbs!