Phillmatchett

I'm getting some winter tires and my options are limited with 22s. I'm dropping down to 20s. I still want to keep a bigger rim, not interested in going less then a 20. I decided on some Michelin X-Ice Xi2 Lattitude tires. I debated on rims for awhile, but i've been looking at some that are 20x8.5 with a 38 offset. This is fairly close to my stock set-up of 22x9 with a 38/39 offset I do believe. This will retract my rim inwards from the fender roughly 5-6mm and also give me 5-6mm clearance near the axle , which isn't much, but if anything I was hoping to push the wheels out a hair more. I can always use some small spacers, but was hoping to get away from that.

They seems to be sold out of the 25 offset that comes with these wheels, but from what I noticed the Edge is listed as 35 - 45 offset so I'm not sure if it's recommended to dip below those listed figures. And I was also wondering about going with a wider rim instead? They also come in 10" wide rims, but that will put me 13mm out further, which is more then I originally wanted along with 13mm closer to the brakes etc..

1010tires.com has a decent offset calculator if you're looking to match your originals. As long as you know the width and offset of both rims. Those rims are nice.

Motegi MR116 - Black/Red Stripe - I think they go up to 18s - Some don't care for the red stripe

Dub Push s110 Black - They can get pretty big, depends if you like that many spokes

Yes, some things I'm willing to spend money on others I'm not. This just seems like one of those things that I probably won't dish out the cash. Unless of course the wife says she wants them! : )

Well, I'm buying my tires/rims online, so they'll balance them for me. Shipping is free, but I recall them wanting $59.99 for the TPMS for each wheel. $250.00 seems a little much.

It happens. It gets easier the 2nd, 3rd, 4th time and so on! : )

Hello, I'm purchasing a set of tires/rims for winter. Just curious if it's really worth getting the TPMS with them? Personally the indicator light on the dash won't bother me. Just seems like another money grab. I have no problem checking my tire pressure once a month. I'm really leaning toward not getting them, just thought I'd see what some others had to say. I read some some opinions on the winter tire topic as well.

I'm picking up some Toyo Observe GS1-5 tires in 245/50r20 for the winter. I'm downsizing from my 22" rims for the winter. I've read some good reviews on these tires, and I'm getting them for CAD260.00/each free shipping. Anyone ever own a set? Also, plan on picking up some Touren TR9 rims in matte black. They're fairly cheap rims for 20s and I wanted some black rims. I'd would be nice to see them in person before buying.. Any opinions on them?

Thanks

Do you have the Warning Canceller and Capacitor?

Yes, I have the capacitor connected, but not the resistors. I'm not getting any warning lights on my dash.

Finished installing HIDs in my 2013 Ford Edge Sport "Canadian Version" and everything seemed fine at first. Both lights came on, althought some minor flickering at first with intial start-up, but RetroFit said that it was normal. Noticed some problems next day when I decided to take it for a road test. My lights would't turn on in auto. I had to put the car in park and rotate the dial back and forth and eventually they'd work. Now my driver side won't come on at all. I have the 5Five ballasts, with the relay harness, along with a capacitor. I also have couple resistors, but was told I don't need them as long as I'm not getting any lights/errors on my display/dash. I have two canbuses kicking around as well since I was sent them by mistake, they aren't installed.

I decided to redo my grounds, since some might not of been the best choices. I grounded everything to the chassis and made sure to sand off any paint. I just have the one ground with the fuse going to the positive terminal of the battery as recommended. I'm going to recheck my connections and grounds again today. Any suggestions before I give Retrofit a call. I noticed a lot of people ran into some problems installing HIDs here.

By themselves new rotors won't do a thing for stopping power. You'd have to upgrade the pads and calipers too.

They do happen to come with pads. As long as stopping power is equal to stock it's not an issue with me. It's more about the look.

Slotted or drilled rotors won't do anything for braking performance unless your getting your pads so hot thepressure of the pad vaporizing exceeds the hydraulic pressure. This rarely happens in a normally driven street vehicle. The only car I ever experienced this on was a 90 Honda Accord going down a hill that was a 25% grade for a mile...by the bottom the rotors would feel warped but give the pads a few minutes to cool and vibration was gone. So this purely for show. With that said I did do this on my previous ride and was surprised with how much NVH increased. The Edge might not be as bad since the suspension is pretty compliant but don't be surprised if you feel the slots through the pedal and the wheel. Personally I wouldn't spend my money on it again for a street car/truck. Oh not to mention you will likely eat your pads faster too.

Good info. Definitely wouldn't want to feel the slots through the pedal/wheel. I had them on a previous car and didn't have any issue. I'll likely take my chances.

Anyone have aftermarket rotors? Looking at possibly purchasing some Power Stop rotors from AutoAnything. They seem to have great reviews regarding stopping power. As long as it s equal to my stock I m more so interested in the look.

Shipping from the States would likely be expensive for rims along with the cost of duty fees. I'm sure I could find some decent deals in Canada, but I like my current rims. Powder coating would cost be roughly 600.00 which isn't very much, especially with my location. Any mechanical work on vehicles is 200.00/hr. I'll likely plasti dip them first. It'll make the decision a lot easier.

2011 SEL, and I've had the same warning pop up. No driveability concerns. Been to the shop twice with no findings. Lately, it's gone a step further. The wrench light will come on, no words whatsoever, only an "ok" button (left side). When this happens, it drops the throttle out completely. It's like the gas pedal doesn't exist. Transmission will still shift from forward to reverse and the engine seems to be running smoothly, but I have no throttle. Shutting the car off and restarting will correct it. Shop found nothing, no stored codes, could not duplicate. I recently purchased the extended warranty (at 33K miles now) as I see this getting worse before it gets better.

I'm having a very similar issue as you. I don't need to restart to fix mine, it usually only lasts a few seconds. They told me they found an error code, but I don't know any details yet.

Anyone have their stock rims powder coated? I'm looking at getting my 22's powdered black.

Thanks for the responses. I did make an appointment and they got back an error code. But they had to call the help line and said it would likely take couple days to receive a reply. They have called since and I'm booked again to get it fixed. They didn't quite explain the problem to me though. I'll find out when I bring it in for the appointment. It's good to know that I have options. Thanks

Not sure if this is the best forum to post this. I m having two issues, both happening at different times with my 2013 Sport. Had the dealership look at the Advance trac once already. They just reset the computer from my understanding. But it kept happening along with the yellow wrench showing up twice and the vehicle seemingly lost power but was reving high. It occurred in the snow both times.

My only real concern is there any chance they ll try and pin this on my cold air intake if they need to do repairs?

Thanks

Anyone with a Canadian/Cali Edge, did you install just the relay, canbus, or both? thanks

Awesome, thanks for the quick reply. I'll definitely keep that info handy regarding the install with the 9006 bulbs. I don't recall reading that I needed both the relay harness and the canbus, but you could definitely be correct. I'll have to skim though some other threads. I'll likely just go with the standard bulbs instead of the XB35 to ensure I don't end up with blue tinted lights. Thanks

I've spent a few hours skimming through a lot of the HID threads. Noticed a little confusion at first, but seems like a lot of people opted for the 9006 bulb. Doesn't seem to be any real issues, but with the 9012s available from Morimoto I assumed that would be my best bet. The only issue when selecting that kit is the lack of the XB35 bulbs. Just called RetroFit and they told me to go with the 9006, they're either are out of stock with the 9012s or never received them yet?! Anyone order the 9012 kit from The RetroFit Source?

Set-up: 9006 Kit

Ballasts - 5Five DSP

XB35 - 5000K Bulbs

Harness - Canbus

I read with the 5Five ballasts and the 5000k bulb it gives a good white light, just curious if the more powerful xb35 bulbs might give it a little blue colour to it? I also own a Canadian Edge. I read some problems regarding the DRL and having the dealership switch them over to turn-signals. Is this a problem for all Canadian edges, or does it vary?

In short:

9006 or 9012 Kit

XB35 5000K bulb or just the 5000k bulb

Thanks

Looks good. Did you use plasti-dip on your emblems, or something else? I dipped my front emblem, but didn't use the glossifier.

All black

Welcome and have fun. Always good to see new members..

This is good to see. I'm eager to see some of the postings. I might be able to post in the contest down the road, but not today!

I d go with out. I just recently took mine off after having it on for 8 months. Looks much cleaner in my opinion.

Nice, thanks for the heads up. I sent you a pm. Also, how did you do your tail lights? Thanks.

Hey, that's a good looking Edge. Good luck in obtaining it.