blazindave

Just want to say thanks for this thread, I think it will help me a ton. I wanted to ask a couple of questions about my specific case, as I'll be taking a closer look soon: 2011 Edge SE (no tow package). ~96k miles background: Wife complained about a week or two ago that the A/C hasn't seemed as cold as it used to be. Since we were about to go on a short vacation in the south GA heat, I figured I'd add some R134a to the system... Well, the cheap refrigerant hose I had didn't have a gauge so I just went for it. Long story short, I overcharged it, which I guess caused a pressure switch to immediately disengage the compressor right after it came on... so now it was short cycling (engaged for like a second then disengaged) and I was getting only warm air, no cold at all. Went and bought a better refrigerant hose that has a gauge on it (not a full high/low side manifold though) and realized it was overcharged. Let a bit out until it was "in range" and then it started working correctly. Still not 100% sure that it was quite as cold as it used to be, but getting cold air nonetheless. Went on vacation and didn't have any trouble, A/C worked just fine - highway driving, no traffic to speak of. Until we got about half way home we hit some standstill traffic in mid-day summer heat - now the air started blowing warm. After we got out of traffic and started moving, the air got cold again. I didn't notice any overheating or anything. She hasn't complained about the A/C not working right since we've been home but with school still out her work commute doesn't have much stop-and-go traffic (that will change in the next few days once school starts). I wonder if maybe one of the fans is working properly (keeping the engine from overheating) but the other (or the control module) isn't? We've had this vehicle for a few years and I really haven't had to do much work on it other than regular oil changes and such (thank god, knock on wood). So I haven't gotten terribly familiar with the engine layout, position of components, etc (like I have with my older Focus). I'm no master mechanic but I've got some skills and always prefer to DIY if it's not a major internal engine/transmission issue that requires special tools and knowledge/expertise. I have an infrared laser temp sensor and an Elm bluetooth OBD scanner with Torque app so I can look at temp values, etc. So I think if someone can answer the following questions it will really help my initial diagnosis: Can you first verify the proper operation of the fans: driver side fan should come on intermittently depending on engine temp (anyone know what temp it is supposed to kick on and off at?) passenger side fan should come on whenever A/C is on (is it only with Max A/C or at high setting or something or just anytime the A/C is on?). Does that sound right? Can I easily physically see the two fans to confirm correct operation or do I need to remove shrouds/etc just to observe? Or should I be able to easily hear the difference between 0 fans, 1 fan, and 2 fans running? I noticed that her coolant reservoir was a little low (not empty though) - actually forgot to top that off but will do that ASAP. Have not noticed any smoke or leaks or overheating though - is that indicative of anything related? I can just use the old 50/50 mix of green coolant/water to top off in this vehicle, right? I'm thinking I first look at OBD temp reading and lower radiator hose measured temp to see if it's "normal" (what is "normal" during regular, warmed up, idling engine? check with A/C on or off or does it matter?). If temp readings are wacky, it's probably the temp sensor (although I suspect this isn't the case due to no overheating). Next look at fan operation. If passenger fan (or driver fan) doesn't work or is intermittent, replace fan assembly. Could it really just be something as simple as dirt/debris on the condenser or the cabin air filter? Am I on the right track? Many thanks in advance for any additional insight/advice!

This is the first vehicle I've owned with this feature. Of course, when I bought it, there was a "next oil change" mileage sticker up in the window. Now that we've driven it past that mileage, my wife keeps bugging me to change the oil. I told her about the oil life monitor feature, and we discovered through the message center that the oil life still has 62%. I have no idea what kind of oil they used, and presume that their recommended oil change date was 3k out from when they did it. So, do you guys pretty much go with the recommendation from the IOLM info and just change it when it tells you to, or do you still stick with prescribed mileage or date intervals? I see this in Ford's documentation: "The IOLM does not use oil quality sensors – it is entirely software-based and uses actual engine operating conditions to calculate the oil change interval by using an algorithm." It just kinda makes me wonder how good it is at estimating oil quality. Don't get me wrong, if it extends the miles/dates between oil changes, that's great, so long as it doesn't negatively affect the engine...

2011 Edge SE I'm thinking about replacing the black plastic piece along the bottom of the rear bumper because I've got a couple of dings, and have a couple of questions. It's the black plastic piece above the exhaust pipes, but below the painted bumper part (see pic of similar vehicle here). First, it appears it is item # 9 in this image: Can anyone confirm that is in fact the part? Ford calls it the Rear Bumper Lower Cover... I asked the dealership about it (didn't have the car at the time) and they indicated that it would need to be painted... which struck me as odd, as every one I have seen is the same black plastic, so why would it need to be painted? It is not a piece that matches the body color... Am I looking at the right part? Also, my Edge does not have the tow package, but the part for the version with the tow package is a little less expensive and does not have a core charge (for some reason the one w/ the tow package does have a core charge). Does anyone know what the difference between the two is, specifically? Could I use the cheaper one designed for the tow package? If it's just got an indentation to accomodate a hitch, and would mount up to mine correctly, I would like to consider getting the cheaper one (also maybe beneficial if I ever decide to get a hitch installed in the future) without the core charge... Anyone know if this would work? Also, it looks to be a fairly easy part to replace - although I haven't gotten down and inspected it closely. Has anyone replaced just this part of the bumper that can offer any tips/advice/etc? Thanks!

Just bought a used 2011 Edge SE and so far I'm really liking it. The only thing I am not thrilled about is there are some scratches on the door panels - the little silver plastic piece that I guess you grab to push/pull the door open/closed... It's the silver part below the actual door handle in this image: http://media.caranddriver.com/images/10q4/370001/2011-ford-edge-sport-door-panel-and-dashboard-photo-370186-s-1280x782.jpg (sorry, image is really large - seems easier to just click the link instead of oversizing the forum window) It's worse on the rear doors. I drove a few used Edges and I noticed that this isn't an uncommon thing. Obviously it wasn't something that kept me from buying the vehicle, but I was wondering if anyone knows if just that little piece can be replaced or if you'd need to replace the whole door panel? Or if there is a good way to sand/paint/refinish/buff/etc it so the scratches are at least a little bit less noticeable? Thanks!