rgigowski

Thanks... It was the bleed. All is well and I have nailed it after the bleed to active the antilock.

Don't drive this vehicle much and I am getting it ready to sell. However, I thought I would update everyone. Of all the thoughts and input from everyone, turned out to be the motor mount to the transmission. The one that everyone orders incorrectly that is near the exhaust y-pipe.

Happy and pleased to tell everyone, all is well.

Quick update... Put it all back together and the brakes have improved some. Still needs 2/3's of the stroke to feel and stop but it feels like it is stiffer.

So, even though I used a power bleeder which is vacuum operated. I may still have some air in the lines.

Does anyone know if power bleeders and antilock brakes are bleed as you'd would something without antilock?

What I am asking for is proper bleeding procedure with a power bleeder and antilock brakes.

Thanks,

I did a booster swap in 2.5 hours. I used basic tools such as sockets and screw drivers. It was pretty easy.

The booster magic is easy. Flip it they way I have it in the pick and rotate counter clockwise to clear the master and ABS lines and it will come out in 2 minutes.

 

 

Put the booster back in the same way then press the pedal rod by hand and flip it downward to get it into the firewall. Make sure you check the rod length while both boosters are out of the car.

 

I will post step by step photos and directions at a later date. I'm on my iPhone right now at work but I wanted to share my experience to help you save time. image.jpg

Hey guys... I did all this and it was not tough or difficult although I do have a problem.

New booster in, used my power bleeder to bleed the brakes and get any air out of the lines (also @ 122k it was time for new fluid). Get in the car and the pedal goes nearly 3/4's down before you can feel the master cylinder engage and pressure for the brakes. Took the car for a test drive and it will stop and lock them up (okay, chatter with antilock brakes) but the point is, it will stop.

However the pedal travel is a little concerning and I doubt I will be able to pass inspection.

In the post that I quoted above there is something about checking the rod length... did that and they are the same but if there weren't, how the heck would you adjust it.

I have the old booster still and tore the car back down today thinking that maybe the rod length was suspect but no.

Any ideas? I can push the car back outside while I wait for a reply. Obviously, I prefer putting it back together and getting it right.

Signed,

Desperate in Texas or

Rick

WWWPerfA_ZN0W

Awesome reply and thanks for taking the time to do this.

Eyeballing it and tread wear on the inside of the rear tires, no alignment specs.

I am going to sell it but want to correct this before I do. My gut says shocks/struts won't correct it and something else is needed.

What would be the best way to determine that?

Again, thanks!

Question on this, camber of my vehicle for the rear tires is pointing in at the base... How are struts and shocks correct this?

That's what my thoughts were... Any idea what are the best cost conscious replacement shocks/struts out there and possible source?

Just how many miles are on those shock in the rear . Worn rear shocks will also cause inner rib wear on the Edge rear tires.

Sorry guys, I got pulled in a different direction after I posted this and have only now been able to get back on this.

I have 120k on the car, give or take.

And yes, I meant camber and have no idea why I said toe other than things were crazy at that time.

Are the shocks gas charged? Not sure why they would have the car sag like a VW. Are the springs shot?

I was following my wife driving the Edge and noticed the rear tires are toed out, sort of like what you see on VW bugs where the tires are squared down slightly.

Obviously, tread wear on the inside of the tire is compromised. What causes this and what is the fix?

Thanks

Somehow this posted twice, sorry.

Old thread but a favorite thread!

Hopefully we will get a reply. I haven't done a thing yet and it really hasn't worsened at all. I am thinking the motor mounts and just doing in and the transmission torque mount.

Doubt they are too difficult to replace.

You might try this place.I used them before but it has been a while. Not sure if they offer this or not.

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/20172-All-OEM-Ford-parts-10-over-cost?highlight=fordsvtparts

I would hate to think flywheel or torque converter. I mean how often would that ever happen.

How much motor movement is acceptable or not?

I have 108k on the car and this is something that has been there for some time. Meaning, it is livable.

At idle in gear, there is a vibration from the engine compartment. Take it out of gear and it's gone. Increase the RPM's just a bit, it's gone.

I am leaning towards motor mounts but wanted to post up first and see what y'all might think.

Not sure if turning the A/C off makes a difference or not, tried it but don't think the results helped.

Thanks for the help.

Rick

Good afternoon-

 

Kind of a random question. I had my TSS & OSS sensors changed last December as both crapped out on the highway, and of course it was 80 miles from home.....good times.

 

When the two sensors went, the wrench light came on, the speedo was down to nothing and the motor was stuck in a kinda low gear, I'm assuming to protect itself or something of that ilk.

 

Anyway, I had the two sensors changed and everything was fine. My question is, is that since my truck went into that fail safe mode, I believe I read somewhere on this forum that I need to take off the battery connectors to reset the PCU, then put them back on and then I should be good to go?

 

I thought you needed to reset the PCU in order to get it out of that "safe" mode.

 

I maybe loosing my mind, and that's certainly not out of the question, but I thought it had to be done. It hasn't as of yet, and I'm wondering if that has something to do with the crappy gas mileage I'm getting.

 

Thanks

Matt

 

 

Sort of off topic but yet still on topic, did you have Ford replace it or someone else? In either case, do you mind sharing the cost? My 08 needs to have that done too and I have been putting it off.

Actually had the symptoms twice but managed to get the car moving again and running okay. I can tell shifting is not what it should be but it does run okay with an occasional hesitation and rev between gears.

Just about to 60k miles on my '08 Limited.....wanting to change plugs. Fronts look easy...rears not so much. Anyone else do this and what's the easiest way to get to the rear plugs. Looked from underneath and doesn't look very possible. Hoping I don't have to pull upper intake to get to them.

Just follow the instructions in the link, print them off if needed, take pic's if needed. All in all, one of the easiest plug changes.

In fact, if you do the plugs on my F-150 I'll do yours!

Jumping on your thread... sorry, don't have any answers for you. I do know that trans fluid does have to be changed as early as you are but I guess it won't hurt. If you're thinking that'll clear up the rough shifting... you may have speed sensors going out like I am.

Labor time is the issue as I understand the sensors (2) are in the 30 buck range. I heard Ford will charge 800 or so for the repair. Ugh.

No suggestions from me... I would think fuel filter but the symptoms for the are like yours at idle then usually hesitation under acceleration worsening as you continue to accelerate and not go away like you state.

I haven't pulled my manual or anything however if the fuel filter is permanent, that will be new to me.

Get the codes pulled

Auto parts store... look it up.

Wow... you don't, not for an oil change.

Run up to Autozone or something and have them pull the codes off it. Be sure you have oil pressure before you do that. I am not aware of a code that would be thrown due to you changing your oil. You have something else that threw the code.

Amazing, simply amazing. I have put up with the blower working and not working for almost two years. Whenever it wasn't working I wasn't home where I could text the connections to see if the blower was faulty or if something else like a controller was failing. Finally got tired and ordered a new blower.

OMW... should have done this in the very beginning. Airflow is awesome and the thing is whisper quite. For the lousy 44 bucks, why did I ever jack with this?

I know this was in the 2008 section and I have an 08, however the TSB show 2009, 2010 and 2011 vehicles. Does it apply to 2008's too?

Great start... did you ever get your bulbs and post up the measurements?

Sorry to hear about the problems, possible that the trans is starting out in a higher gear from stop (there is a TSB related to that). That would be a Transmission Range sensor going bad.

 

Codes can be read with an OBDII reader, and major auto parts stores should be able to read them for you for free.

 

Related TSBs:

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=179533 / http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=180543

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=171494

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=176597

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=136827

Any chance you have a TSB for the 2008? All of these are for different years.

Not good to let the motor rev and the transmission slip while getting up to 30 mph. A trick to get the computer thinking again is to shut of the motor allowing the code to reset. Then slowly put the vehicle in reverse and allow the car to backup a few feet, put it in drive, move forward and then repeat. You should hear/feel the transmission clunk between drive and reverse. Carefully accelerate in drive and it should be fine unless there is a hard failure.

I have done this a couple of times with success. I know I will eventually have to have something serviced and replaced but both times this happened, the conditions were different leading me to believe I may have two issues.

Good luck...