carsick30

I realize the demographic may be a bit different here than Mustangs/classics/tuners, but still, anyone interested in starting up a meetup of Edge & MKX owners somewhere in the area?

Oh good, I'm not the only one. See my post "2012 Sport And Already Problems" to join the problem club.

All I know is that even though everyone says get a harness I am running 55w/6000 with just plug and play without any issues for a couple of months now.

Ordered and installed 6,000/55w kit. Wow, the difference is so drastic over OEM I might actually be able to see through solid objects with these. Surprisingly not getting high-beamed by oncoming traffic unless they are partially incapacitated by the insane brightness and become too disoriented to reach for the high beams. The problem I have is that the ballasts do not fit into the spaces designed for the OEM ballasts. I guess that's what you would expect from aftermarket, but just too bad.

Makes sense, but the mystery to me is the fact that I'm only getting this occasional distortion when listening to radio, not USB/CD. And no, it's not radio station static because it happens on every channel. It;s also not antenna reception because the static would then come from all sides, but this one seems to be more in the back.

Clearly Im being sarcastic. If you are not sure why Im expressing my displeasure, check my thread under Owner Impressions section. What I mean is that the letter basically says this will not cause immediate break failure, but to keep waiting for the spongy feel or for hissing. I can do that or I can talk to friends who have no issues with their SUVs and dont have to wait for the day when this may or may not happen. I find it frustraing to constantly have to wonder what the next problem may be.

updated

got letter. adding to the ever growing list of either current or future problems. unbeleivable. i love how it says the tear may not kill you right away, but i just can't help but picture having to really use the braking power that one time when it's needed only to discover that the problem has been there long enough for me to take out myself and another car on the road. basically, every time i go in for service i might as well have them look at this to make sure.

When listening to radio, but not CD or iPod for some reason, seem to be periodically hearing what sounds like one of the back speakers being blown. Anyone else having this problem?

Joined recently. Picked up a 2013 SEL a little over a month ago. Already fitted it with a Thule roof rack over the BAMR with aero bars and a Thule bike carrier. Love the versatility of this car.

I have DDM 55w kits in all my vehicles and toys and have never had a problem with them other than 1 ballast going bad.. HOWEVER, DDM exchanged the ballast free of charge and I've yet to have another problem since in 3ish years that I've ran them. DDM Tuning offers a lifetime warranty if I'm not mistaking. I will continue to buy from DDM Tuning..

 

The ONLY downside is depending where you're located, it can take up to 2 weeks for delivery since they generally come from China if your not lucky enough to get a kit outta their California office. We have the 4500k 9006 55w kit on our Edge Sport. Lighting is crystal white, excellent lighting and the wife LOVES them. Check my pictures for examples.

looks good. so, +1 vote for having a backup ballast handy. i'm assuming you didn't have to use their Error Eliminators either with your setup?

They are not needed on your Edge. If you're interested in learning more about Hids, Hidplanet forums is a good place to spend some time. TRS (Morimoto) owns the website but they talk about all the brands including DDM. Lots of Internet cops on there that frown on putting Hids in halogen projectors but they really do work well in the Edge projectors.

i figured as much. i saw posts that for morimotos you should get canbus harness, which is their version of DDM Error Eliminators i think. So, i assumed you have to have that with all kits. i agree that there is no problem with putting HID into halogen projectors as long as the kit is not complete garbage. I've done it as far back as I remember on all cars I've had without melting anything or killing oncoming innocent drivers by blinding them.

Are DDM Error Eliminators really needed on a 2011+ Edge? Anyone run without them and not gotten code flashing on dash?

thanks for posting and for the .pdf! i thought i was losing it when i would hear this sporadically, but could never understand where it was coming from.

Headlamp assembly has a shield that moves...so high and low are the same bulb. If you listen you can hear it actuate.

Ah, got it. i can only imagine what that would cost to fix if out of warranty... Which then brings up a follow-up question: since the waterproff cap covers have toget drilled for the install, and HIDs are no longer OEM parts, can Ford say they will not cover surrounding and affiliated components under warranty (not the bulb/ballast onbviously, but other pieces) because of excessive heat/electrical load/etc.?

If I was starting fresh, I would order two DDM kits for 80 bucks. It would be really easy to replace a bad bulb or ballast with your spares and then have DDM warranty the bad part. In my case, it was not fun putting the halogens back in and having to drive around the last month without Hids waiting for a new DDM kit. I had a ballast go bad after about 18 months. Been really happy with the output of the 9006 35/5000 kit.

so bad ballasts potentially... what about the high beams? it uses same bulb as low beams? i guess i just can't register how it would not need a separate bulb for that.

So, based on some discussions throughout here i saw a numbmer of poeople running DDM Tuning HID setup because of cost savings over that other "M-something-rather".

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-HID-Kit-Slim-Ballast-35W-or-55W

$60 vs $150 certainly makes sense to me. Online you can find HID setups for hundreds more than that, but it doesn't mean they are that much better. Here is what I'm interested in:

1. I know a bunch of people said they have been running DDM without issues for at least a couple of years. But, I also saw owners say they have had issues with DDM without getting into specifics. I would like to hear what those issues are with DDM. Pros: cost and reliability (?). Cons: ?

2. Can someone clarify again please the low vs high-beam with these? The kit does not specify that it is low and high beam. Does that mean the way the Edge lights are built, the switch uses the same bulb but angles it higher for high beams? This is porbably a dumb question, but I just don't get it even after seeing a post on here about some magnetic swtich or something like that.

Updated for another issue.

Have you updated your ipod to the latest rev for it? Also, is the ipod set up for mass storage (an option in itunes)? I don't know about Ford, but I know GM does not support any ipod older than a 5th gen ipod classic.

That would make sense to worry about normally, but the iPod was working with SYNC fine less than 2 weeks ago and for months leading up to the sudden problem. There have been no updates done to SYNC or iPod software when SYNC stopped reading any USB connection. It just happened out of the blue.

 

2. Pull fuse - which box is that in and what exactly does it look like?

 

Fuse #29; fuse box next to your left leg driver side kick panel area

 

3. Pull power to fuse box instead of pulling fuse - anyone had luck with this? Seems like the least PIA process, but want to make sure that doesn''t screw up other things.

 

Same fuse box as previously mentioned. Pull power connector from the box

 

There is a youtube video of someone doing it on the Edge

 

Thanks for this. I did see that Youtube, but I wanted to make sure that was not going to mess up anything else since the power to all fuses it being pulled. I guess what I don't get is why this, or individual fuse pull, would work if taking down the power to the entire car did not. I guess we'll have to see. I'll also try to post pics if any of this works.

Makes sense. Actually I did notice that, after I pulled the battery negative cable, the personal settings did stay. But, since that still did not show my USB connection to iPod like it used to, I'll do the power to the fusebox next, then fuse, them master reset, then drive the car through the front window of the dealership.

Sorry if I missed this in here some place. Is there an actual step-by-step walk through, hopefully with pics, of how to do a "master reset" of the Sync? Need it to make the thing start reading my USB connected iPod again. Online there are a few different suggestions:

1. Pull negative cable from battery - didn't work.

2. Pull fuse - which box is that in and what exactly does it look like?

3. Pull power to fuse box instead of pulling fuse - anyone had luck with this? Seems like the least PIA process, but want to make sure that doesn''t screw up other things.

Thanks!

 

One could say that sure but based on what I have read the Edge seems to straddle both classes. Also I guess personally I am comparing the Edge to the Forester I own.

The Tribeca has a third row seat and is designed for 7 people (like the Toyota Highlander) but the Edge seats 5.

 

Which performance exactly are you talking about? AWD? Handling? It seems to me since these aren't sports cars the 0-60 performance doesn't really matter!

Beleive me when I tell you that Tribeca's "3rd row" seat is the biggest crock of, well you know. All those clowns did was reduce trunk space, push the back seats up and crammed in 3rd row for what must be intended for infants and "little people" to use a pc term. So, the leg room for regular back seats is completely shot just so that they can say the have the 3rd row feature. This is one of the reasons I say comfort in Ford is significantly better. You cannot compare Tribeca to Highlander. Sure, we are not talking the need to do burnouts and take on 1/4 miles in drag races as far as performance goes. But, you do want to be able to take off from a red light better or merge onto a highway faster or move through traffic more effectively. You also want to handle windy roads with more confidence. Ford SUVs handle like marshmallows in corners and have heavier feel than Subaru. You will have fewer perfomrance and technology issues with Subaru. Ford has the advantage of not needing 93 octane in any of their SUVs while Subaru has to have 91+ in anything with a turbo. It comes down to what is more important to you: performance, handling, and reliability vs comfort, features, gas mileage/cost.

updated the running tally of nonsense on original post.

For fair comparison Forester should be up against Escape. Edge is in Tribeca class. Having owned all of these, Edge is better on comfort and features, but Subaru takes performance.