mcali6301

I've read somewhere that even when the fuel gauge reads empty that there are a couple of gallons of reserve fuel. Could have something to do with it.

I wasn't able to find anything either. Sounds like there must be something defective on either the rubber piece or that little black bracket and it's not holding properly.

Sounds like you have two options, take the car in or just don't use them. It's up to you if you want to also break off the plastic guide rails also, if nothing is connected to them they will rattle with every bump.

Before I got mine fixed the rubber sidings were warped from the roof constantly closing on them improperly, they were not re-usable at all.

I know this may not help but, No. I was cleaning the railings the other day and they are still in place after about a year of opening a closing. (I'm in San Diego so they are open a lot).

Again, are you pinching them at the top and bottom and then pushing them into the black slot? They should fit but extremely tight.

If that is not working then you either need new ones, which to may knowledge may only be available through the dealer or their outsourced mechanic OR just don't use them, I don't believe they even have a real function that I can think of..

I looked at covers and I don't want to spend $200 on them.

I did catch these on Ebay but then the price difference is so much that I'm wondering if THOSE are even worth it. I scrolled further down and saw installation procedures with scissors and glue which does not look fun.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Cover-Brembo-Front-Rear-Set-Look-carbon-fiber-M-S/321350975387?_trksid=p2054897.c100204.m3164&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140407115239%26meid%3D73c7a940951545018ee0c40d854f97f4%26pid%3D100204%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D281044302369

What kind of covers did you use?

I want to paint my calipers black. I'm picking black since red is more a European thing and I'm not driving a race car....

I plan on removing the calipers and spray painting them.

I know there are some older posts regarding this but I wanted some tips and good instructions that are model year specific to my car.

Yup! They heard the rattling which really relieved me and eventually found that to be the cause. I imagine this is something that someone in the future may easily be able to fix on their own.

I can only hear it at low speeds 10-20 mph.

If I'm somewhere going faster, chances are I would be in an area with too much noise anyway and wouldn't have anything on the side to bounce the sound to my ear.

I checked the exhaust, shook it around a little bit and nothing.

I DID recently get an CE light which turned out to be an evap cap which would not close. Issue was fixed. Might be leaning towards that...

No one sitting in back at the time and not sure when I'll get to test it that way...

Hopefully dealer finds the issue...

I've already scheduled an appt at the dealership but I'm already bracing myself for that "no issue found" response....

Sounds a flat piece of metal clanking under the car, toward the rear driver's side, it only happens with light bumps in sequence like a old bumpy road. Quiet on heavy bumps like speed bumps..

Perfect example, if ride the the left side of the car over the reflectors on the street the metal clanks only with the rear tire moving over the reflector...

Just looking for ideas on what it could be in the case that I end up having to find the culprit myself.

Just had my brake booster replaced. Experienced a low hiss when I close all windows and turned off radio.

When I pressed the brake, the RMP would raise a little and stay that way, supposedly it should raise and then lower.

Now when I hit the brake, the RPM doesn't move which I am fine with!

The replacement also seemed to have fixed the acceleration which I believe was affected by the leaking air from vacuum lines.

Whistling still exists however I noticed better acceleration. Perhaps since the brake booster was connected to a vacuum line, replacing the brake booster formed the necessary seal within which let the vacuum line operate normally for the throttle body? Can only guess...

Obviously the mechanic could not hear the whistling and since there are no issues with the car that they can fin, I don't think there's any reason to push it.

The only other thing I can think of is the throttle body, they mentioned getting it cleaned but I've heard so many conflicting opinions on this. (I've seen the very long threads on the TB)

Perhaps I'll get it done during next maintenance.

Mechanics found nothing else wrong with car aside from the brake booster. They test drove it with a scanner and they found no issue. I'm very curious now to see if the whistling has gone away, I doubt they'd even be able to hear it where they are but once I get in my driveway I'll know.

I'm not too convinced it was the brake booster causing the whistling since when I tap the gas, it gets a little louder and goes away..

Another update: Brake booster internal failure and its' being replaced. I know this is not directly link original thread but once they do replace, they will then address the whistling issue if the brake booster wasn't the cause to begin. I'm pretty sure there is a vacuum line that runs into the brake booster.

Apparently 0456 means a small leak and I'm leaning towards a vacuum issue. I'm hoping this solves not only this problem but the vacuum problem all together and then I'll gain better shifting and acceleration.

Check engine light was due to the following:

Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p0456_ford.html#ixzz3WB0DzwR0

Remaining issues are being looked it but it seems to me that everything is pointing the "vacuum" lines or system.

Check Engine light came on yesterday evening and I brought it straight to the dealership.

Prior to this I was testing the brake booster by following some instructions online. The instructions were to, with the engine running, depress the brake, the sound of air should be heard but then go away, the rpm should raise slightly and go back down...Instead the sound of air continued and the rpm stayed slightly raised.

From my perspective, it seems as there is a vacuum issue since there is also a slight acceleration and hesitant shifting issue. It all has been extremely minor to me, I thought perhaps the car just had a lower quality tranny but all I needed was for that check engine light to come on to really confirm some kind of issue and better plead my case to the dealer.

Luckily I have the extended warranty...Will keep you guys updated.

Ok, I'll do this soon.

I have the same issue! I just didn't think much of it to post and it's never gotten worse. Now I am reading that vacuum leaks can affect acceleration and shifting, an issue I have been having since the purchase of my car just hasn't been bad enough for me to say something

Typically they will not check closely as part of routine maintenance, and even then there is a threshhold under which they will say "normal wear & tear, no concern". I would have steering AND alignment checked next time you go in for service.

That sounds about right. Will do. Thanks!

Typically they always check the alignment as part of the maintenance package, but you never know. Thanks for the tip.

Hit a pothole with my right front wheel and since then there has been a very faint knocking sound here and there when making sharp turns. No alignment issues etc.

Just had her maintenance this past Saturday and nothing was caught but then again I never mentioned the pothole...

If I inspect the area myself what should I be looking for in particular?

Thanks for all of the input!

My car just finished it's 60K maintenance. The rear brakes are moderately worn (more than the front) and I am concerned as to why. They did not report any other issues.

I was trying to figure out why this may happen and I remembered that the car has a feature where the brakes will stay applied when the car is stopped on an uphill (to prevent rollback). Would this have anything to do with it or should I be concerned that there is another issue..

Maybe a spray from the transmission cooler line while being disconnected that then had to be cleaned up? If the engine was warm/hot when the repair was done, the reaction would have been more likely to happen.

 

Interesting, haven't heard of a valve body gasket replacement (at least on an Edge this young) before. Was a transmission TSB (11-12-10 I think) being performed?

 

I see a

"Auto Trans Valve Body ECU Gasket 6 Speed Auto Transmission 6F50" 7T4Z-7H200-A listed in that area.

"Auto Trans Valve Body Access Cover Seal 6 Speed Auto Transmission 6F50" 7T4Z-7B329-B, and

"Auto Trans Valve Body Oil Passage Seal6 Speed Auto Transmission 6F50" 7T4Z-7N266-A.

 

Yes, TSB 11-12-10 was being performed. I had an intermittent tranny slip issue.

So you have had the valve cover removed and a new gasket installed? If so I am more than willing to bet they cleaned it with something during the process because of the pattern on the cover. It resembles a spill or wiping more than a spray of something. This being said. Keep on driving it as there is nothing wrong other than some discoloration. I like to investigate and ask questions might have something to do with my previous job. LOL

Yes, but what does that have to do with the engine? I'm pretty sure the valve body gasket removal takes place under the car, at the transmission correct?

I'm sure that when they did this, transmission Fluid was lost and restored.