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Ford Edge Forum

greggmh123

Edge Member
  • Content Count

    14
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About greggmh123

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Pacific Coast
  • Location
    Southern California
  • Edge's Year
    2014
  1. Mine would crank just fine, which only means that it still had plenty of power in it. However, that does not mean the battery has no internal defects, such as high internal resistance. I suppose that is a possibility, but just doesn't logically make sense that it could keep the engine running and exterior lights bright, but kill all internal power, including lighting, windows, door locks, hazard flashers, and the entire dash. It almost seems like there is a module that controls internal power, and it vomited on itself. Then again, I have learned that logic can be a finicky little bugger. I'll get their response Thursday AM. Gregg
  2. Chipster, Yes, definitely an understatement! I don't have a YouTube account, and the videos are 90MB each, too big to post here. Basically, after disconnecting/reconnecting the battery, I could start it and move the shifter, but all the dash lights were on and stayed on, and it cycled through "Engine On", "Service AdvanceTrac", "Shift to Park", over and over again. All of those warning lights would not shut off as they normally do once the engine is running. The second image, where one can see that the key is out, shows the lights as they would cycle every 3-4 seconds on and off, with the key in my hand. Gregg
  3. David Young, Did your Edge lose all internal power but still have the engine running, even with the key out of ignition switch? Did you see any messages about Shift To Park, and then not be able to get it out of park? The dealership has not been able to duplicate it and they have a call into the tech hotline in Dearborn. I am hoping to get some hint of what could make it wig out so much. Gregg
  4. WWWPerfA_ZN0W, I'll mention this for background, not to toot my own horn. I was a Ford tune-up tech for 18 years, retiring from the business in 1999 after turning down Ford's request (twice) to be an instructor at the La Mirada, California, training center, so I know my way around electronics very well. This event was the freakiest thing I have ever seen a vehicle do. I don't know if the whole thing was a fail-safe mode, or just borked electronics, bad grounds (I've seen some really weird symptoms from those over the years!), but if that's Ford's idea of a fail-safe, it's horrible. This is not an issue with a weak battery or bad throttle body Neither a weak battery nor a bad throttle body is capable of shutting down all interior power while leaving exterior power working fine with the engine still running. Also, weather was not an issue..."it never rains in California" comes to mind! It was sunny, dry, about 62 degrees F outside. This issue, or at least the kill-interior-power behavior around it, goes way beyond a basic electrical issue. Something I forgot to note here is that once I had removed the fuel pump relay to shut it down and we got towed to the dealer, I noticed that my daytime running lights were still on (from www.DAYTIMEBrightLites.com, installed in 2014), even without the key in the ignition, so I pulled that fuse. It was probably about ten minutes later while unloading the truck that the dash lights started coming on and off, cycling continuously like that a few seconds on then off, then on/off over and over again. That's when I disconnected the battery. After disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it, all the dash lights lit up, with the addition of "Service AdvanceTrac" warning. Plus, the "Shift to Park" warning came back. At least then, I could start the engine and use the hazard flashers. After starting the engine, all the dash lights stayed on, including all the warning indicators. Every light on the dash was lit. Very strange! Gregg
  5. My wife had driven our 2014 Edge SE less than 1/3 of a mile from home this Sunday morning when I noticed the AC went off, then she said that the dash display went out, and I noticed that we had no interior lights anywhere on the whole dash or SYNC display. As we pulled to a stop at the traffic light, "Shift to Park" come up on the dash, so my wife did so before I could tell her to pull over first, just in case. Sure enough, shifting to park screwed us. Once in Park, it could not be taken out of park, we had no door lock control, no power windows, and we couldn't even turn on the warning flashers. She said that the heat was on, and I noticed that the engine was still running, and in spite of it being 62 degrees F outside and the temp control on cold, we had a low-blower-speed heat. I had her turn off the key, thinking we could just try to restart, but even with the key off and then REMOVED, the engine still ran. WTH? The key did nothing when turned to crank position or any other. I had to pull the fuel pump relay to get the engine to shut off. We called AAA for a tow. At the dealer's off-hours drop-off, I was unloading the truck when the dash lights suddenly started to come on for about five seconds, go off for a few seconds, then keep doing that cycle. I knew the dealer would think I am nuts (to be honest, they know I am nuts because I used to work there as a tune-up tech!), so I got a video of it. I figured if I left it cycling like that, it might kill the battery, so I disconnected the battery. I got the wild idea to see what would happen if I reconnected the battery. Well, even with the key out of the ignition, ALL dash lights came on, even warning lights I had never seen before. I got a video of that behavior as well. At that point, I could start it and shift into gear, but I was not about to try anything else and left it there for Monday morning. Has anyone else seen such whacky behavior? It was dangerous because we were left stranded in the middle of the street. Fortunately, we were not on the freeway at the time. It seemed like some kind of fail-safe behavior, but if that’s what it was, it’s a HORRIBLE and dangerous design, having killed our ability to turn on the hazard flashers, not able to open a window, no internal power at all.
  6. Hello! I am wondering if anyone has experienced a broken serpentine belt at low mileage. Mine just broke at 7,443 miles. I had noticed a very slight chirping sound at idle for the previous few days. Also, on hard acceleration, I heard what almost sounded like a ping or possibly a tensioner ratting, even for a second after backing off of the throttle. Fortunately, I was four miles from a dealership. They found nothing wrong with pulleys or tensioner and replaced both belts. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Gregg
  7. Jimeld, Assuming that there is a physical relay in the controller box, an easy way to test would be to flick the controller box with your finger to "bounce" the contacts in the relay. That flick usually will kick loose any sticking contacts. The only thing that can turn on the lights is the controller (or a short to power). If a relay is sticking, do not try to fix it yourself. Get the controller replaced under warranty. Gregg
  8. "Never thought about that." Neither did I until I got my arm stuck two feet up in car's dash...at lunch time...and had to wait for someone to finish lunch and hand me a long screwdriver to pry out my hand. Trust me, that only has to happen once, especially with a bunch of "friends" tormenting me because they knew that I could not move. Jerks. Of course, I would have done the same to them! Gregg
  9. Nice comparison video side by side showing the true differences between the lights. I recommend doing one that is less shaky, and showing the differences in turn signals and hazard flashers as well. Show off that giant turn signal! Gregg Hill
  10. Dan, One mistake that I see in the video is the ring on your finger while working near a battery. I was a Ford tune-up tech for 18 years and knew several guys who got a hand stuck in various places because of a ring. I told one shop foreman that he shouldn't wear his watch (metal band) while removing batteries and he laughed at the comment. Not long afterwards, he welded his watchband onto his wrist when a battery slipped and rammed his wrist in between the positive post and ground. The screams and the burn were quite bad. Other mechanics have lost fingers by getting their rings caught between in between the positive post and ground. Safety first! Gregg Hill
  11. I got my DRLs installed. I only had one problem, and that was that the fuse box lid would not close with that ignition trigger "two fuses in one connector" adapter. I had to junk that piece and make my own connection with an inline fuse and a small terminal on the end that went into an available "hot with ignition on" slot. It may have been slot 91 on my 2014 Edge SE. Anyway, the lights look GREAT, even when OFF, i.e., they look a lot better than the ugly black blanks on an SE. My wife was impressed, and she really liked the giant long turn signal addition to the standard ones (too close) by the headlights. In Dan's video, the stock turn signals are hard to see with the headlights on, but the ones in the DRL cannot be missed unless one is blind. Gregg
  12. Hello! I got my DRL kit today, and I think that you might enjoy my craziness. Having been a Ford tune-up mechanic for 18 years, the first thing I did was to look at how to install the lamp assemblies themselves more easily. Please see my revised method. Modified instructions for lamp assembly installation on 2014 Edge: Requirements: · Long arms, strong fingers, ability to work with hands without seeing object being removed or installed, and at least a little tolerance (or enjoyment) of pain. Installation steps: · Let engine cool if you think getting burned is a problem. · Leave wheel well covers in place. Installation will be done from the engine compartment. · Open hood, reach long arm down from engine compartment into wheel well, remove clips holding current lamp assembly or black plastic lamp blank in place, remove lamp or plastic blank. · With plastic protection film still on DRL lens, gently insert DRL assembly into wheel well from engine compartment. · Using your free hand, reach into lamp mounting hole from front of bumper and remove lens protection from lamp assembly. · Insert lamp assembly into place and install two retaining clips. · Repeat for other side. · Total time for lamp installation: about 10 minutes. · Getting a few scratches and remembering why I stopped being a mechanic: Priceless! I'll get to the wiring tonight. Gregg
  13. greggmh123

    Rear fog lights

    05stram, Thank you for that update on California law about rear fog lights. Do the atmospheric conditions restrictions also apply to front fog lights? Gregg
  14. greggmh123

    Rear fog lights

    If that is really a "fog lamp" and is very bright, it may not be legal in the USA. Look at the advertisements for drivebright.com for some OEM-looking/fitting FRONT lights that act as DRLs and turn signals. In my opinion, they are more practical than a REAR light, because you already have red running lights in the back. Gregg
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