PaulSchott

The 2007 Edge has been passed on to another owner.

You guys have been great but she was getting too needy.  157,000 miles and she ran great but she needed engine mounts,  wheel bearings, a ball joint and tires.

I also live in Connecticut and this was a FWD from Louisiana and had leather seats without seat heaters, no heated mirrors.

She has been replaced with a 2017 Ford Escape Titanium AWD 2.0T in White Gold with every accessory available and only 35,000 miles.  

It was love at first sight.  

First service I will do a PTU and Tranny fluid change.  

Thanks for all your help

Paul Schott?

The rear emblem on my 2007 only gave up because it hits the hinge on my garage door if it is opened when the garage is opened.  I put rubber over the hinge and put a carbon sticker on the emblem.  The front looks great. after 14 years

I can't help you but here is the translation for someone who may.

"hello everyone and thank you, I am desperately looking for the sync 3.2 file, because after updating my 4-inch non-touch sync to version 3.4, I encountered problems with the brightness of the sync itself, and I was wondering if I can downgrade, but I do not know where to find the file.

thank you all for your help."?

Sadly,  your car would run without any oil for a while. Low oil level has nothing to do with it.  By the time you get to add oil to it whatever electronic module is bad has had time to cool down and will let you start the car.  It seems that you are saying this only happens when you are idling for a long time.  This would cause heat buildup in the engine compartment.   Does your engine run rough before stalling or does it just turn off?   Do your cooling fans work?  

If it's the belts making noise you can try spraying them with water while the car is running.  Any change and the belts need changing.

I did both on my 2007.  I guess you can have someone outside the car to listen.  Is it worse when turning left or right?  When I did mine I bought the axles on e-bay.  They were Detroit Axle new Made in the USA.  Less than $150 for the pair.  

If you are doing it yourself I recommend these.  I did them about 6 years ago and over 75,000 miles. They are still fine.  The job with the proper tools takes about an hour per side.  Look at the axles  to compare them.  I had to transfer a (what I'm calling) a water defecting shield from the old ones to the new.  Not a big deal, just something to look out for. 

It sounds like it is held on with a clip.  I'm thinking something like an old window crank clip.  

What type of head lights do you have? Halogen would be my guess on a 2013.  If the color of the light has yellowed without changing a bulb you most likely have a a bad ground.  If you can find the ground you can clean the connection.  A bad ground will only get worse and if there are other grounds connected to the same place you may start having other problems.  Halogen usually do not dim noticeably with age,  They just reach the end of their life and stop working.  Some bulbs are tinted blue just to look good. (in some peoples opinion.)  The tinted bulbs actually reduce output and don't last long.  typically halogen color temp is 3000K  Unless the bulb is tinted it will not vary much, and most likely will not be noticeable. 

?

Ford is calling the coolant "Lifetime".  My 2007 blew the water pump at 97,000 miles. I was fortunate and saw it before it was too late.  I guess "Lifetime" means that after it's dead your on your own.

Ford has changed the coolant recommendation for our cars a number of times.  In 2007 the coolant was gold.  (unknown to me)  they changed it to dark green.  I've been changing it about every 30,000 miles.  This is about every 3 years for me.

I still love this car and @ 153,000 miles it runs and looks like new.  

I do have this problem and I suspect it started after I had the water pump replaced.  Probably jacked the engine for access to the timing cover.

I've been living with it.  Is this an easy access?  Did you change it from the top?  Remove the battery box and is it visible?

I might just do it myself if it doesn't hurt too much lol>

If the screw held the valve open and the piston hit it you may need a piston.  Use a borescope to do a visual on the piston and cylinder walls.  A small ding shouldn't be a big problem but it's a matter of judgement.

48 minutes ago, onyxbfly said:

 

I see what you did there. I asked for a custom knife for my birthday. She said absolutely not! I asked why..... she said not only do I have enough but I have a few sets! I said you only have one pair of feet but that didn't stop you from buying two pairs of shoes at the mall......

 

She looked at me blankly and said if I'm going to ruin cutlery by using it as a tool, she will gladly get me a set of Ginsu knives....

 

I told her that I never heard of them, let me google them. I told her that they were advertised in the 70's and she must be really have a great memory for being so old.....

 

You can see the outline of body etched into the wall from the heat vision......

 

 

lol lol lol ?

It seems that it's always the plugs/coils in the back.  I just did my #2 coil pack and replaced all the plugs and coil boots.  The coils in the back run hotter than the 3 in the front because the intake manifold is over them and heat is an electronics killer.  At 150,000 miles I think it will be the last time they will need changing.  ?

I guess  I should consider myself and my wife lucky.  Really old guy clips my back bumper and goes around me going well over 50 mph on a  roundabout.  Then creams a Jeep in the drivers side.  She was driving without doors on her Jeep.  Dashcam is becoming a necessity.  His insurance co. paid me in a week.  Not sure about the girl in the Jeep.  I know her car was totaled.  We were coming from the same birthday party.  I got the video to her. When I talked to his insurance co. they had a copy of the video.  I don't believe in limits on driving ages but I think past a point there should be testing especially after an incident.  She said she wasn't injured, but I bet she hurt the next day.

Typos can be really funny.

I read it 3 times making sure that I'm not a perv.

It could be bad O2 sensor but it could also be the Cat.  Water in the O2 connector,  driving with a blinking check engine light will overheat the converter by dumping raw gas into the exhaust.

I would check the O2 sensors first.

If you have the 3.5 the switch is on the front of the engine between the radiator and engine on the passenger side.

On 7/11/2020 at 3:34 PM, enigma-2 said:

I hear ya brother. I'm retired and have the Ford garage do all my work. For both my old cars (2009 MKX & a 2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible). Everything.

I'm too old, too lazy and I can afford it. 

 

Besides my 09 is still under warranty for the next 3 years - with $0 deductible, so ....... in she goes for every little thing. (The power lumbar just went out on the passenger seat. So she goes in week after next. Thinking $400-$500 as they have to pull the seat out, then pull out the entire mechanism inside the seat back and replace it with a new mechanism).

 

Old cars that are well cared for are great. Just think of making $400/month payments vs. $500 year for upkeep and repair. Of course there are years where you spend more, but still ....

 

BTW, I wouldnt trust parts off Ebay. Even the Motorcraft parts are known to be fakes. (Amazon too). Unless it's a cost factor, if I were you, I'd buy off Rock Auto. Costs a little more, but you can rest assured your getting quality.

The compressor came from a dealer with over 31,000 sales and 100% feedback. You can check them out, they are THEACCOMPRESSORSHOP.  You can shop safely on eBay.  Yeah, you do have to watch out, but if your careful and read feedback you can get a good idea of who you are dealing with.  I have dealt with Rock Auto and they really screwed me on  a new back bumper for the Jeep.  Crap replacement part and a fortune to ship it.  It's getting chalky and its only 3 years old.  The front is original and it looks like new except for where my wife keeps hitting the lawnmower with it.

I guess everyone has a different experience buying online.  It's like going to a great restaurant and getting a bad meal.  You don't ever go back. (unless someone else is paying lol)  

I have 2 old cars and enjoy the fact that I also have 0 car payments. First old car is a 2002 Grand Cherokee.  Last month it needed a new radiator.  I noticed the antifreeze smell and saw a small crack in the upper tank. This car is a genuine pain to replace the radiator.  I used to be a do it yourself guy but I'm getting too old and lazy to do it myself.  Ok $600 bucks later it's fixed.  A week later it's getting warm but the A/C doesn't work.  get all pissed off at the repair shop figuring they didn't recharge the system.  I am wrong, it has a full charge and the compressor is running.  The only problem is that it runs but it doesn't pump Freon.  First quote is for over a grand.  I bought the compressor rebuilt on eBay for about $180 and he installed it for $300 plus tax.  OK another $500. 

Now to my 2007 Edge.  Misfire on CYL #2.  I already bought the plugs and coil boot set for about $100 on eBay.  If it was CYL 4,5or 6 I would have done it myself of course It's CYL#2.  I did the plugs at about 90,000 miles now it has 150,000 so we do the plugs and boots plus a new coil at $160 at the shop because I'm old and lazy. Another $400.  Oh yeah, he also remounted and balanced a tire for $20 included in the price.

I'm so happy not to have payments.  They have been replaced by repair bills.

Sorry for my bitching,  Now all I need to do is replace the brakes on the Edge and I should be done.  Yeah Right LOL?

The hissing noise was probably the water in the system hitting the fan and spraying.  It should be gone.  Next tie I would try using vacuum to pull the water out of the system.  The dirt that was blocking the drain is probably still inside.  Keep an eye on drainage from the system.

What year is your Edge?  I swapped out my factory head unit on my 2007 with an aftermarket  Nav. unit with blue tooth for less than $200.  I love it.  I never hooked to steering wheel controls up but I don't miss them.   

If it starts and acts normally sometimes, It's probably the key or the receiver located around the ignition key.  Try another key and move another key around the lock area.  Intermittent problems are difficult to find. 

Possibly the fuel pump?  Try pulling the fuel pump fuse,  Getting under the car close to the tank may help determine where it's coming from. Does your car have noise cancellation?  I understand that it can do freaky things. 

On ‎3‎/‎3‎/‎2020 at 11:43 PM, F4Gary said:

66 Olds Toronado was beginning of Domestic FWD.  Great car, Dad owned 2 of them.

67 Eldorado followed suit as it was built on the same platform.

My dad had an Eldorado.  The CV joints cost him a fortune to replace.  A real beauty though.  He went back to rear wheel drive after the Caddy.  That's when GM actually made cars that people wanted.

Taste it.  (Don't swallow)  If it's sweet it's coolant.