Jaak in TO

I trimed the tab in the bulb with a set of side cutters ...

I ordered some high and low beam replacement for my 2009 Ford Edge Limited.

The Narva H9 bulb is supposed to replace the H11 OEM bulb, but the Narva has a top and bottom plastic tab between the metal prongs where the wiring harness connects, and the H11 that I pulled from my Edge does not. My wiring harness will not allow the Narva bulb to plug in. The extra tab on the Narva prevents connection.

Anyone else experience this? I've sent an email to candlepowerinc.com - awaiting a reply.

(Note: I'm not talking about the High beam bulb where you have to trim the tab on the bulb itself).

 

I've attached two images to show differences.

Sorry ... I have not been here for a while.

yes, trim the notch and it will fit.

I have been running both Narva H9 and HIR bulbs with no issues. They are both working strong and no issues with seeing down a dark roadway.

Another site to try to buy bulbs is www.powerbulbs.com. I did order a set for my 2002 Boxster S and the price cannot be beat. It was ordered on Jan 30th and received them in the mail from the UK on Feb 8th. Prices are a lot better than in the USA!!!!

Ill usually wait till we get a high 30's low 40's day and wash the grime off myself. If the water wont freeze when it hits the metal, I'm willing to look a little strange to my neighbors and go wash and dry it in the driveway.

Touchless car washes with undercarriage spray!!!

I my friends shop has room (Independant Porsche shop), I wash mine by hand in a WARM garage. If there are lifts available I also get under the Edge and power wash it .... :happy feet: :happy feet: :happy feet:

I've always had a good laugh at the companies putting a blue tint on their bulbs, It acts a filter blocking light, people get fooled by the color change and think there is more light hitting the road, but I suppose as long as people will buy them they'll market them.

 

These HIR1 bulbs sound good, I'm going to look into them.

They ARE bright.

The Narva H9's I have for the lows are bright as well. The odd person thinks I have high beams till I flash the highs ....

I filled out a survy and Ford called me back and left a message. I called today and described the issue. Ford will call me back tomorrow (10th) for a course of action. I described the socket condition and she was a bit concerned. I also mentioned the service message 20626 and she noted it.

 

Will update on actions.

I have heard nothing from Ford ....

I have now moved my oil over to Castrol Syntec 5w20 and drain intervals of around 8,000 kms or less. I'm lucky that a frind owns an Independant Porsche shop here in Toronto and I use his facilities as well as his "price" for the oil.

Reason I moved over to Castrol Syntecis the number on engine failures I have seen with the Porsches IMS seals etc., due to Mobil 1 oil usage. I have a 2002 Boxster S which I bought with a blown engine (PO had OVERFILLED crancase with 4 extra liters). and had it rebuilt. Several engine rebuilders who I have talked to all recommended Castrol Syntec as thier oil of choice to keep the engine in top shape. Porsche has some slight design flawes in it that does not show up till later in the NA market. Euro oils are better than what we have here ... as well as a higher price ... and NA Mobil 1 just meets their requirements. I have run the same oil in previous vehicles from Volvo's to Land Rovers with no motor issues. Milege was always better and cold starts easier (most engine wear happens then).

This is what I have found out from multiple sources and is what I, and I stress I, am following. YOU may decide to go a different course due to YOUR information.

A good example I found was the Boxster needed the ATF replaced (service I wanted as motor rebuilt so tranny must be serviced) and the shop looked at Porsche ATF. Porsche wanted $35 a litre and I needed close to 8 litres. We researched the spec and ended up calling a Euro supplier who recommended a ATF from Germany that Porsche recommended in Europe. The cost turned out to be $7.50 a litre and exceeded Porsche fluids spec (Titan ATF 3353.). I saved and had the same if not better protecting than what the Factory fill provided. Do research from multiple sources and come to some form of an educated solution ... BTW ... oil formulas differ around the world and different parts of the country depending on what the manufacturer had in their stock/order for oils.

The abouve is MY OPINION ... you may or may not wish to follow. All I am doing is putting info out on what I am doing/following!!!

<no hydrocarbons were harmed in writing this post>

Folks, I had replaced my front lights with the following bulbs almost two years ago with NO issues. The light output is fantastic with no night time issues. I am a VERY HAPPY customer and would go the same route again.

Low Beams: Narva H9 - ordered from their website

High Beams: HIR 1 (Toshiba) - ordered from their website.

Here is what I had followed thanks to Daniel Stern:

*******************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************

> Hello ... I have a brand spanking new Ford Edge Limited AWD with H11 as the low beams.

Ford have recently "gotten it" and have been installing decent optics on their cars (finally). H11 is an ultralong-life, rather low-output bulb producing 1350 lumens. You can easily and safely replace the H11 low beam bulbs with 2100-lumen H9 items: http://store.candlepower.com/h-9.html -- don't make this substitution in the fog lamps, however.

> I would like to order a pair of your finest. I am looking for a good distance beam pattern down the road as well as one that hopefully lasts longer than a year.

Can't have all of the above. Higher output = shorter life. Buy spares; they're not too costly.

Your high beams can also be significantly upgraded if you will Replace the existing 9005 bulbs with 9011. The new bulbs are not some tinted or overwattage version of 9005, but rather employ a relatively new technology called HIR, Halogen Infrared Reflection. The mechanical dimensions of the bulb are all virtually identical to the 9005, but the bulb glass is spherical instead of tubular, with the sphere centered around the filament. There is a "Durable IR Reflective" coating on the spherical glass. Infrared = heat, so the coating causes heat to be reflected back to the filament at the center of the sphere. This causes the filament to become much hotter (producing more light) than it can by passing electricity through it, *without* the shorter life or greater heat production that comes with overwattage bulbs (to say nothing of overwattage bulbs' incompatibility with stock wiring.)

Here's the comparison:

stock: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours

compare: 9005+50, 12.8V, 55W, 1830 lumens, 175 hours

new: HIR1, 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 320 hours

These bulbs are costly as bulbs go - $23.95/ea - but their cost is worth considering in context: Any number of companies will charge you more than this for a tarted-up 9005 with blue colored glass (PIAA and Sylvania Silverstar come to mind) that doesn't produce more light and has a very short lifespan.

The HIR bulbs have a double-wide top ear on the plastic bulb base, this is to comply with the law requiring different bulbs to have different bases. The extra-wide plastic top ear is easily trimmed or filed to make the bulb fit your headlamp's bulb receptacle. Once that's done, they go directly into the headlamp, and the existing sockets snap on. Please see http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/HIRmod.html for details.

Still no leak and the temp has dropped up here a few times.

Still no leak and we have had many a COLD days in the last month. Mine seems to be hold out quite well so far.

I filled out a survy and Ford called me back and left a message. I called today and described the issue. Ford will call me back tomorrow (10th) for a course of action. I described the socket condition and she was a bit concerned. I also mentioned the service message 20626 and she noted it.

Will update on actions.

Try using a damp Mr Clean Magic Erasere ... works great!!!

Have used it on my Edge as well as the old Porsche. Keep rinsing it out.

There is no way to change the database... so your stuck with the county road number. The newer versions may have the street updated to Bathurst St. The basemaps for Navteq come from DMTI in Markham ... I use their product and am able to change names on a PC. This does not transfer to Navteq as it's burned into the DVD.

Nope. There is a sign on the pump that says "contains ethanol" or "might contain ethanol". Without that sign there shouldn't be any ethanol.

Most regular grade gasoline has 10% ethanol in the mix. Mid grade has 5% and Premium has usually 0%. IIRC the Benz needed Premium which in most cases has no Ethanol. Switch to a mid or high grade if milage is your concern. Pay attention to what is listed on the pumps. The Ethanol content will be listed. I am lucky that a local Petro-Canada station still pumps 100% regulas gasiline. If I fill up elsewhere, I DO notice the difference in milage as well as power. Ethanol has 85% of the BTU's that pure gasiline has. In some cases the Ethanol has destroyed cats as seals especially in older vehicles. Some users of newer Snowmobiles have reported premature engine breakdowns due to Ethanol.

I use 100% gasoline in all my engines from the Edge, chain saws, weed wackers, generators, outboards, lawn mowers and of course the Porsches. I usually use Shell 91 and it does make a noticable difference!!!

I have 40,000 Kilometers on the Latitudes with more than 3/4 of the tread left on it. First time I have ever recommended Michelins!!!

Works great in snow as well ...

Still no leak and the temp has dropped up here a few times.

I have the latitude tour hp on my 08 Limited (18") and they're fantastic so far. With tires you generally get what you pay for.

Agree ... great tire!

I use P21S on all parts including the outside mirrors and glass. I DO NOT appy anything to the front windshield. P21S is carnuba wax with beeswax which does NOT leave a white resedue. Works on just about all surfaces and is easy to use.

Like the Latitudes!!!

It snowed badly up here in Canada last year and the Edge motored along real good. Never got stuck, lost control even when driving through snow drifts (love doing this). A very good tire that has low resistance which helps with the milage. This is the first time I have not replaced the tires on a vehicle I have owned. Usually I replace them after a month due to poor performance.

Got the fronts a month and half ago ... fit great and collects more crap and holds it. Will be great in the winter with all the salt & snow up here. Tired of cleaning salt stains. Got mine from weathertech.ca.

Update: Still no leak ....

Try Mr Clean Magic Erasure ... cleans leather and vinyl real well.

Replaced under warranty ... made in china ....

Still no leak.

YES!!!!

When the updated disk is first installed, it does an update to the data and what I would refere to as the OS. The display is a slight bit different. It does wok well and has more streets in my neck of the woods (Canada, Toronto area).

Jusy got 7P from a poster here. Look on the NAV thread 7P for contacts ...

I have a 07 MKX i wuold like to upgrade disks on...does the copies work just as well as the real nav disks? I would be willing to buy eithe the 7p or 8p...PM me please if you have a copy

The copy of 7P works well!!!