sanche

Omar 302,

 

I'm make an appointment w/ the dealer tomorrow. Will check back in later.

 

Have a great day...

Very strange. I'm all primed-up to call the dealer today for an appointment.

This morning I start the car and suddenly SYNC logo lights up and it starts booting-up after being dead for 2 days, wtf ???

Now it's working flawlessly again.....Not sure what to do now.

See attachment.R12M02 Warranty Extension - APIM.pdf

Omar 302,

Thank you very much for taking the time to find the recall notice.

I'm make an appointment w/ the dealer tomorrow. Will check back in later.

Have a great day...

In the mean time I'll try disconnecting the battery and pull fuse 29.

No change, screen still black.... will see if dealer will fix under warranty.

If there are other options like aftermarket systems that integrate and mimick OEM ....... please chime in.

Thanks

Nothing. But I think you should disconnect the battery for ~ 10 minutes. The APIM is still covered by a 5 year unlimited mileage warranty. So you can take it to the Dealer.

This is good news, thank you. Was there a letter sent to owners about this for the Edge? Where can I get a copy to bring to the dealer?

In the mean time I'll try disconnecting the battery and pull fuse 29.

Thanks again

Hello need some help for my 2012 limited, 60k miles.

All was fine w/ the nav system until today when I started it up and the screen was black. Thought it was rebooting but sync icon or FORD logo never came on while driving for an hour.

I disconnected the battery for a minute then reconnected.....radio came on for awhile, but screen still black.

Radio went out after a minute, screen still black.

Aside from disconnecting the battery is there anything else I should try??

Buckled the rear seat belt so it wasn't near the trim.....didn't help. That rattle is still somewhere.

 

I'll try to find it this weekend when someone can drive around while i sit back there.

Rattles come from odd places.

I had loose change in storage bin between front seats, removed it, no more rattle.

Also check the spare tire area....

 

No - I would go get the darn thing replaced or repair it myself. Why would you keep driving it if you really believe it's a huge safety issue?

I did.....fix it.

Not all of us have the skill or time to waste on something that should have been corrected long ago.....by Ford.

I haven't driven a car yet that SOMETHING electrical didn't break shortly after the 36,000 mile mark... And they're all expensive to fix. It sucks, but there's a reason the warranty is only for 36,000 miles. Statistically it is no longer economically viable to repair the increasing number of failures under warranty. This sounds like a serious issue. And yes it should be fixed, but $500 is not too bad if that includes labor. My throttle body position sensor failed at 34,000 miles after 3.5 years. It was not covered under warrranty and it cost $800 to fix including labor. The throttle body has an integrated sensor so it all had to be replaced. The fix included removing two bolts and disconnecting an electrical harness. The fix was super easy, but it was the dead of winter and it broke in the middle of the week and I had to get to work the next day. So I had to pay nearly $300 in labor. It sucks, but this crap happens.

Yes, I agree, it sucks.

I honestly want to by American, but this is a very common and biggest issue w/ this car. Is been going on for years with cars 36-60K miles.

The company ignores what owners are complaining about, but will be glad to charge you $500 - $600 to fix.

I personally replaced the latch device in my drivers door. Man what a mess of a design it is to service. They try to combine 3 separate systems onto one door plate......Ahhh. The whole inside has to be removed. What happened to the simple plunger switch that other makes use?

According to Fordparts.com, yes. But the 2015 is on an entirely different platform (CD4) so that doesn't really make sense.

Would you bet your life on that? I mean in an accident, the airbags may not deploy!

The edge is not the only Ford product this design is used on.

In this forum, someone took the module apart and all these safety systems (door locks, security) depend on a flimsy little micro-switch the Ford has selected...

 

Same question: Is this mechanism used on 2015 model year Edge vehicles?

 

Too early to tell, only Ford and svc knows.

Just want to caution potential buyers that this problem has been around a long time and Ford, in previous years continues to use this design and does not offer a recall or any incentive to correct this safety issue.....

Consider extended warranty if you intend to own.

 

Even if it is I'm not concerned as it looks to only happen on higher mileage cars and mine is only a 2 year lease. Problem solved.

Not necessarily high mileage or many years.

It becomes a headache because it's an intermittent problem. Dome lights stay on, can't lock doors, and alarm is disabled.

Very embarrassed to have to slam the door 5-6 times to turnoff lights and protect battery.

Leasing gets you off the hook as far as repair $$$, but you will be inconvenienced on the street and at the dealer.

My post is more of a notice to owners....

Why is this in the 2015 forum?

 

Is this a known issue on the 2015?

Hello,

Here are the reasons I posted here:

1. Regardless of customer complaints through the past several years, Ford continues to use this latch design. Hopefully, someone in corporate will take notice and finally do something about it. This is a safety hazard and should not be used on new product.

I'm reasonably sure Ford people look at and are aware of this forum.

2. Many of us Edge owners are frustrated and want to advise potential buyers to be aware of this problem history and repeated use of this design. This system is also used on other ford cars and trucks.

3. If someone decides to purchase, they better consider buying extended warranty b/c most of the time the sensor fails just after the factory warranty expires. It is expensive to fix.

This was also posted in the electrical section of this forum.

Hello Ford and FORD ENGINEERING this includes Lincoln too.

Pay attention to what owners are saying about this DOOR AJAR SWITCH problem, its a big one!!

Do something about it. It is a safety issue, doors don't lock, air bag may not deploy, alarm is disabled, also will kill your battery if you are not aware...This is happening on cars one or two years old.

Look at this link:

http://www.aboutauto...ectrical System

How much more criticism do you need before acting on this?? It's been a problem on the EDGE/MKX since inception.

The EDGE/MKX is a very nice vehicle, but this problem is a real headache and would not buy another.

At least offer a rebate on the cost of the device at minimum.

I tried to link the thread here but could not do it. There is one suggestion (with pictures) on how to use electrical spray to try and fix it. It seems to have worked for some people.I am going to try it, as the air spray plus WD40 didn't fix it for good.

This process works for a few days, but the problem will reappear. As you continue to reapply WD 40 (or electrical contact cleaner) the problem will get worse with time.

I went thru this already slamming door repeatedly until light went out.

I would not wish this head ache on anyone.

Save yourself the aggravation, look up the p/n or call the dealer for it. If you cannot do the repair, get it done by a local (trusted) mechanic.

I have the part and will be installing it this w/e.

Good luck

I belive the grill would need to be removed, the emblem should be held on with two plastic posts. I would just get an overlay and call it a day! You could keep it stock or swtich it up and it's a pretty cheap option. Easy to apply as well.

 

I got mine from Glass Elephant and they are great. The one for the steering wheel was actually too big but I can live with the stock one there, not a big deal.

 

-Russ

Hi Russ,

Not familiar w/ Glass Elephant, can you send a web link?

I've seen many people complain about this. Would you be able to post a picture?

 

Thanks

This happened soon after 37000 miles. FORD should replace these free of charge.

After all, we are driving around advertising FORD on these oversized logos.

Check the clear-coat finish around the emblem. Once it begins to deteriorate, the paint will soon peel off.

Careful if you use commercial drive-through carwash.

Here I have a 2012 edge and the front emblem needs to be replaced.

Is it easy to remove or does the grill and number need to be removed?

thanks all

I HAVE A 2012 LIMITED WITH 36K MILES. LOVE THE CAR.

NORMALLY, IT'S VERY QUIET W/O A PASSENGER IN FRONT RIGHT SEAT.

WITH A PASSENGER, I HEAR A CREAKING NOISE DURING TURNS OR BUMPS COMING FROM THAT SEAT.

I APPLIED LITHIUM GREASE ON THE POWER SEAT RAILS AND LINKAGES, BUT THAT DID NOT HELP.

ANYONE HAVE THIS KIND OF NOISE AND FOUND A FIX?

Hello,

Just an update. Looks like the high-lites are back and all is well. It seems like it fixed itself.

That data comes from Sirius. Sometimes Sirius offers free trials, and that's when the lines show up. They will show up all the time if you subscribe to Sirius.

Hi Waldo,

I am subscribed to Sirius, and have the traffic alerts that show congestion, road work, and accidents. The icons pop up on the map and I can also access in the sub-menus.

The G, Y, R, high-lites seem to appear randomly. The rest of the nav. system seems to work normally.

In any case you are right, I will check w/ Sirius to find out what's up.

Just wondering if anyone in this forum has seen the same out there.

Thanks again.

Hello all,

Does anyone known or understands why the red, yellow, or green highlights next to major roads on the map seem to appear for a few days and sometimes weeks, and then disappear?

It's like a tease, It is usually accurate and useful as a traffic alert tool, then it's gone again!

What's up Ford?

The warning chime disable combination requires you to be in acc. Try it each way! The dealer charged me $125 for a spare, non-fob, programmed key.

Thanks all, First I'll replace the battery on the 3d fob, then try again.

Because the dealer charges way too much? Check in your manual. I was reading it one night, but I was really tired. I swear it explained the combo of buttons that needed to be pressed to program a key.

wannabang,

You are rihght, the manual describes procedure (around p. 140). I followed it exactly, but did not see flashing starter button light near end of procedure???

Not sure if power should be on accessory or on or completely off.

It's in the owner's manual. When the dealer reprograms it they wipe out the old keys and put in the new ones that they have which is why the old one no longer works.

Hi akirby,

I did exactly as it says in the manual (around page 140).

Could not get the start button to flash after unlocking, pressing brake, and locking the door (3x....).

It's as if nothing was happening. Third fob still inop.????

Hello,

I have an Edge 2012 limited w/ push button start (no ign. key).

I lost one of the key fobs, so I had to go to the dealer to get a second fob and have it programmed.

After about 3 weeks, they found the one I lost and returned it to me, but it will not open the doors or start the car.

I now have 2 working fobs. Did or could someone post the correct procedure to program the third fob?

Thanks much for your support.