Jake Hintz

Went out to start my edge yesterday and I turned the temp to hi and fan all the up. Well it blows full forces for a few seconds and then cuts out. Then restarts full force and continues this cycle indefinitely until I shut the car off. My outside temp displays 20 degrees then goes to the dashes and then back to 20 degrees. The 3 dashes go hand in hand with the blower resetting. Is there some type of controller that is affected by the ambient temp sensor? https://youtu.be/mNFRHWg9rf8 https://youtu.be/qAci-Frbzwo Here are examples of what I'm describing. If you watch my ambient temp on the touch screen, you will see it change when the blower changes. Any ideas here? If this is a simple fix, that would be great. If I have to take it to the dealership, is this something that should be covered under an extended warranty? Thanks for any info.

While rotating the tires, I unhooked the battery, held the positive and negative wire of the vehicle together for a minute or so, and reconnected when done. Now the outside temperature display reads correctly as soon as I start the vehicle and not 24°like before. And the a/c works properly every time. So I'm not sure if the computer had a glitch in it but ever since then it has been flawless.

Am having a weird issue with my a/c on my 2011 sel. With the a/c, max air, and the recurculate light on my car will blow hot air on start up about 8 out of 10 times. Not sure if it coincidence or not but I notice when I'm having the issue, my outside temp is indicating a low temperature like 25°F. If the temperature indicator shows the correct temp the air seems to work fine. Like yesterday it was in the high 70s and my air would not work when we left our house, the temp indicator went into the mid 50s after about 15 minutes and the air then worked perfectly. Don't seem normal for the a/c to be linked to the external temp, am I wrong? Maybe the sensor is bad? Because it seems to take a super long time before the indicator gets to the proper temp. On my other vehicle it is fairly close upon startup. With the edge it is way for atleast 10-15 minutes. I have checked all of the a/c settings to make sure I have it set correctly, and I do. It will blow ice cold air when it's working correctly. And sometimes right when I start the vehicle it will blow ice cold. But at those times I don't remember to check the outside temp to see if it's right or not. Anybody else find this odd, or think I'm crazy. I can't remember from last year but I do believe that in the summer the vehicle produced cold air right after starting. Just the sporadicness(<<not sure if that's a word) of it working on startup sometimes and then most of the time not, has me baffled. Seems like an electronic malfunction to me. The r134 I assume is at a good level because once it works it works great for hours and hours nonstop. If ya guys have dealt with this and fixed it or have any suggestion please let me know. I don't want to take it to the dealer and have it work every time and make me look like an idiot.

If I wouldn't have quit working on it, it would be done by now. As you can see by the side angle shot the raised area is not raised to the rest of the valance. Not sure why that happened. Only thing I can this is that the mold I made to contour that area moved or my resin didn't have enough hardener and it flattened out before it got hard. If I just filled in the surface holes and resand it and added paint it would probably not even be noticeable. I fiberglassed a carbon copy of the spot I need to finish the part I just need to put some mold release on it and make the negative of it and then resin it into place. But I'm just too lazy or too wrapped up in a 100 other projects lol.

Got the grille dipped. And decided to not replace the valance. There is a spot on the sides about half the size of saltine crackers where there is a gap. Unless bent over looking for it, I don't notice it. Now I just can't decide if I want to glossify the plastidip or leave it matte. I was going to leave the Ford emblem uncovered but it has a rather noticeable scratch above the R and D letters in the blue paint. Must have been from a rock. Even with it dipped you can see the divit but not as much. Think I will leave it like this for now and see how I like it. There are 4 or 5 other black edge drivers at work on day shift. So before I go home from 3rd shift I'm going to park it next to one of theirs for a side by side comparison.

In the process of dipping my grills right now, yes the bumper has to come off to get the inserts out. But the bumper comes off in about 10 mins. If I was you I would cancel the order if possible and just plastidip your current chrome ones. I took mine out to do the dipping but you could leave them in and mask around them. I'm now not sure if I want to add the plastidip gloss or leave it matte black.

With this gut those few inches just aren't enough. Glad it's a super easy oil change though. Almost as easy as my girlfriends 2010 Dodge avenger. Probably one of the easiest vehicles ever made.

Here is what it will look like without that valance on there. If I didn't know it was supposed to be there I would be none the wiser without it on there. It is just setting on front right now so in the Sideview the cover is not snapped in. I think I will just roll without it for now. I will still finish fiberglassing the old one and get it as good as I can so it can always be put back on if I want.

OK thank you, if I can't the fiberglass to work out I will reinstall without it and see. Ill post pictures for anybody who is wondering.

I havea 2011 Ford edge sel. This past winter I hit something in the road and broke a chunk of the plastic off of the very bottom of my bumper. I'm in the process of trying to fiberglass it and reinstall it. But if it doesn't turn out good, is it possible to just remove this piece and still have it look correct where the bumper meets the fender? I can't recall if that piece is needed to connect to the inner fender. On the sport models it looks like that valance is removed and the bottom portion on the bumper is slightly different. Appears to be the same bumper just different lower ends. I could be completely wrong though. I just don't want to spend the $50-75 for a long narrow piece of plastic that could break again. The part I am referring to is BT4Z-17626-C. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.