theoldwizard1

I scored some rims from a 2012 Ford Edge that I want to use for winters on my 2016.  IIRC, starting in 2016 they changed the lug to 108mm from 114.3.mm (4.5").  While you can find this size adapter if you look non of them come with the requires M14x1.5 lugs and nuts !

Anyone know of a source for 5x108 to 5x114 - M14x1.5 adapters 

When did Ford change the 18" rim from 5 on 4-1/4" to 5 on 110mm ?

Does any one know the Hollander Wheel Exchange number for the 108 mm ?  (It is not 10044 !)

I was charged for replacing 3 lug nuts because they could not be reused.  When I got home, I discovered that more lugs nuts were damaged to the point that the socket that came with the car could not be used.

The dealer agreed to replace 4 additional lug nuts at no charge.

On 5/3/2022 at 8:50 AM, chipdog4 said:

I guess it depends on the F150 wheels, but I thought most F150s used the large seat like the Edge lugnuts on the left.

The "seat"  ( cone shaped taper at the bottom) is an "industry standard" 60° on both.  I am not sure why the F150 lug nuts have that extra 1/4" - 1/2" on material above that.

How do I search for topics posted by a specific person ?

Well it looks like I will be replacing most of my lug nuts on my 2016 Edge.  I have done all of my own tires rotation for the past 5 years and managed to only bugger up 2 nuts.  I am using a Sunex flip lug nut set, which I recommend.

The stock/OEM lug nuts require a 21mm socket.  I know that some of the aftermarket use 22mm.  A 7/8" socket will fit an OEM lug nut (7/8" = 0.875" ; 22mm = 0.866" ; 21mm =  0.826"), but I guarantee they will mess up the chrome cap !

Now here is the crazy thing  !  The Edge lug nuts (ACPZ-1012-M) and the F150 lug nut (ACPZ-1012-B) look almost identical.  Same threads, same socket

But $4.18 vs $0.90

On 3/23/2022 at 2:22 AM, enigma-2 said:

There's a video one YouTube where a tech found the exact same problem. It's the routing. The harness is bound to the axle immediately where it extends out to the rear axle. One side of the harness is held tight, the other flexes up and down as the wheel reacts to the road. Think of it as a wire behind held tight in one end and the other being bent back and forth.

 

The fix is to reroute the harness so that the connection to the fixed point is further away, allows the harness to move less when the tire moves up and down. 

Same problem !  I need to check that routing before the other side fails.  Anyone have a link to that YouTube video ?

$350 out the door !  (Thank you for being a customer $20 for "shop supplies" !)

The shield appears to be 6P013.  The retainer in question is HS1/HC1/HN1, but the description does not match the part (IIRC !).

The splash shield under the engine must be removed to do an oil change.  It is held in place by either plastic push pins of screws into plastic inserts.  Except for the back 2.  I have not been underneath since the last oil change (7,500 miles ago) but I know one or both are failing and these are different than the others.  They are square and are inserted into a square hole in the frame.

Anyone know where I can find some of these without paying an arm and a leg ?

On 1/23/2020 at 5:02 PM, TXHoss said:

First post here.  Couldn't find anything on this with my limited search.

 

I am purchasing a 2016 Ford Edge SEL (2L ECO, AWD) with 44K miles next week.  I have read a little and know I need to change the PTU fluid, which I should be able to do myself since I believe Ford put a drain plug in 2016.  Any other standard maintenance I should do after purchase? 

Sorry for being late to the party.  PTU fluid and transmission fluid changes are not "required" maintenance, but are "feel good", cheap insurance !  If you are doing it make sure to ONLY USE GENUINE MOTORCRAFT FLUIDS !  You may have to get the PTU fluid directly from the dealer, but good auto parts stores stock (or can easily get) Motorcraft transmission fluid and engine coolant.

Don't get upset about draining every drop of transmission fluid or even changing the filter.  Even if you only get 50% of the transmission fluid out, because you are changing it so early, you should be fine.  Transmission filters NEVER need to be changed.

I am looking for a part number/source for the square "push rivets" that are used to attach the under engine splash shield to the chassis.

1 hour ago, akirby said:

So you think Ford just changed it for fun?  I believe the reason is they use larger studs on some wheels with larger nuts and they do need more torque.

Admittedly, my old '98 E150 used 1/2" "course" thread buts.

The Edge use M14 (0.549 almost 9/16") and I think they would be classified as "fine" (1.5 mm) threads.  Fine threads can handle more torque.

The book says 162 lb. ft.  My torque wrench only goes to 150 !  Why so high ?

Mu old '98 E150 say 100 lb. ft.

You wouldn't have MFT, you'd have Sync 3, if anything.

Oh well ! I can never keep MFT and Sync 3 separated ! As I said, it has the small screen for HVAC, radio and rear camera.

I believe it'll pop up on the left screen towards the bottom by the door ajar icon. Not 100% sure as i hardly see it besides when i do oil changes

Actually, that is when I realized the oil pressure light was "missing" !

"Door ajar" comes up as a overlay on the center display.

The title says it all !

2016 Edge SEL, without My Ford Touch (small screen).

3200 is pretty close to the max 3500 (2.0/V6 with the tow package). You'd be better off towing with an Explorer 3.5 V6 EcoBoost 4WD. If you do get the Edge, I'd say get the AWD with the 2.0 and the tow package.

 

https://www.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/towingguides/15rvtt_ford_edge_r1.pdf

https://www.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/towingguides/16rv&tt_ford_edge_sep28.pdf

I concur on the AWD, especially when towing a boat (slippery ramps, plus the ramp shift more weight away from the the front drive wheels).

If you get the 2.0 EcoBoost, be sure to feed it PREMIUM when towing !

It is weird that the 2.7L V6 EcoBoost can not be ordered with the Trailer Tow Option so it is limited to 2,000 lbs. I'll be it has to do with the fact that the 2.7L is only available on the Sport model with those (ridiculous) super low profile tires.

I am having the same issue. I have a 2014 Edge, beginning at 12,000 my rear brakes were dragging, and that my steering wheel is shaking and my break pedal pulses. I was told they were fine three times by service the dealer. On another visit, I was told I need rear pads...not front (don't front wear first?) I took it for another opinion. The independent shop told me to take back to dealer as the rear calipers are staying engage and not releasing. Went to dealer again today, (now have 40,000miles) told them what the other shop said, also letting them know I also have the extended service plan. They said there is nothing wrong with calipers and that I need new rotors and pads.

I had the same problem with a 2007 Fusion ! I do my own work, so through trial and error (several sets of rear pads), I think I found the solution,

My current process for a suspect wheel(s) is to buy a re-manufactured caliper AND BRACKET ! This will also come with new pre-lubed guide/slide pins and boots. Stick with a known quality brand (Wagner, Raybestos, AC Delco), These are reasonably priced on RockAuto.com, after you return the core.

For rotors and pad I have had excellent performance from Raybestos parts, but you have to buy the correct ones ! For rotors, stick with the Raybestos Advanced Technology ones NOT the Professional Grade. Yes, they cost more, but don't seem to warp and the last few I have bought were either made in the US or Canada !

For pads, it is Raybestos again, but only their "Enhanced Hybrid Technology" ceramic pads. One of the reasons I like them is Raybestos sells Disc Brake Pad Drag Reduction Clips that help retract the pads !

Dealers will not use aftermarket parts, even if they are better so try to find an independent shop, especially one that will allow you to bring in your own parts as that will save you several hundred dollars.

I have owned and worked on several different high mileage Ford products that have had similar issues. Many have had problems with the slide pins not moving freely in the bore, even within a few months of being greased (first gen Fusion are notorious for eating rear brake pads).

My current process for a suspect wheel is to buy a re-manufactured caliper AND BRACKET ! This will also come with new pre-lubed guide/slide pins. Stick with a known quality brand (Wagner, Raybestos, AC Delco), These are reasonably priced on RockAuto.com, after you return the core.

For rotors and pad I have had excellent performance from Raybestos parts, but you have to buy the correct ones ! For rotors, stick with the Raybestos Advanced Techmology ones NOT the Professional Grade. Yes, they cost more, but don't seem to warp and the last few I have bought were either made in the US or Canada !

For pads, it is Raybestos again, but only their "Enhanced Hybrid Technology" ceramic pads. One of the reasons I like them is Raybestos sells Disc Brake Pad Drag Reduction Clips that help retract the pads !

We just picked up a new Edge SEL and so far I am very happy with it ! The 200A (cloth interior) option package had everything we could ask for. Well, we did add the "roller shade" cargo cover for the back !

This the first SUV/CUV we have ever owned. Relatives have owned several from small (Escape) to huge (Expedition EL). We traded in a Fusion so this seemed to fit us "just right".

The biggest negative was probably the limited choice of color and limited availability in the metro Detroit area. I made certain the wife was "actively" involved in choosing the vehicle. I drove company vehicles for years so she really has not had much input for over 20 years. The "Magnetic" (dark gray) was sort of the only choice left after she crossed off all of the other colors. If the 2017s come in Burgundy Velvet (like the 2017 Fusion) I am in trouble !

Well, by now I am sure that a few people have purchased an Edge with the 2.7L EcoBoost, so how about some feed back ?

I am disappointed that Ford does NOT recommend this engine for towing ! My guess is that the HP/Torque output of the 2.7L EcoBoost is too much for the 6F50 and they don't want to drop in the 6F55.