2kool

Thank you for reply, I was sure hoping that was the cause, and now see most likely it was. No need to re set ECU I am thinking for just the disconnect and reconnect?. Thank you again for your input.

yes, and thanks for advice. I do maintain the pins etc.... i got a little over zealous trying to work that park cable free and caused that leak. Most of the time, the motorcraft branded parts are out of my budget. That being said, I am a big fan of FORD and also a ford retiree. Thanks again replacement parts scheduled for delivery Friday.

Swapped in a new air filter a few weeks ago and appears I loosened the wire connector to the MAF. I got an advance trak control error and a few hard lurches of vehicle. felt like it was running very poorly all of sudden and was not sure I was going to make it home. I scanned for codes and it showed 2 errors of the same code P0102. MAF looked brand new but the plastic wire bundle that connects looked as if it were 1/2 way disconnected. I pushed it back on and tried to lock it down with the little red tab but it still seems to pullout without really locking on. cleared codes and a test ride shows all was back to normal. did or can a P0102 cause the advance trak error to illuminate on dash? P0102 was the only code it threw.

Thanks guys, leak is from back side of piston, where park brake linkage mounts. I am going to replace the caliper.

Thanks for responding. Appears it has stopped leaking but I am checking it daily. If I see any ever so slight leak, I am going to replace it. This is a rebuild with about 30k miles on it. but I had to get rough with a maul to free that sticking cable up.

2013 ford edge, while freeing up park brake cable on driver side rear I noticed I have a small leak coming from behind parking brake linkage at caliper. if I tighten that linkage nut a bit , appears leak slows but I think it still has an ever so slight leak. is there a seal behind there that can be replaced or should I just replace that caliper? thank you.

update: got my $150.00 refunded as brake diag. was not authorized.

After booster and or M/C replacement and soft pedal still exist....take out on dirt road and activate ABS forward and reverse a few times, problem solved! dont spend $14-1,700 dollars at dealer to have HCU replaced when it is just a stuck valve.

dealer just did the free booster replacement and tested m/c. problem still exist, says it has to be the HCU , wants $1,400.00 to replace it. not happening. will question them on the ABS bleed. going to pick it up shortly. thanks.

2013 edge, 111,000 miles, pedal slowly going to floor last week . dealer swapped booster today under customer satisfaction program, (free) and tested master cylinder. says problem still exist. wants $1,400.00 to replace some module under the master cylinder/booster area. ?? no fuking way. going to pick it up shortly and will try the dirt road trick. thanks. I did not see this module available on rock auto? anyone know where I can find it and if I can swap if need be? thanks, TOM okay, UPDATE: back from dealer, new booster but charged me $150.00 for brake system diagnostic. and want to replace HCU ..........nope, drove home but took a dirt road and activated ABS @ about 30 mph. pedal and brakes felt completely normal!! did it in reverse also for good measure, but I am back in business, guessing stuck valve!! thank you!!!!

yes, i have that little squeak now as my pedal slowly goes down farther than it ever did. I hope I can trace this to e-brake adjust or simply bad rear caliper. started shortly after we used the e brake (2013 edge) for the 1st time in a long while.... I did have a stuck rear caliper about a year ago on the driver side, I replaced it and has been fine so hoping it is just time to swap out the other rear caliper. will do some testing later today.

2013 EDGE SEL driver side blend door replaced and still a no go. I have removed my blend door motor and use my hand to manually push and pull the linkage in order to open or shut the door all the way. one way for heat, the other to cool. i have to wedge a piece of small cardboard in to keep in cool position or it does not stay. I have tried all the fixes and 3 new motors to no avail. My best guess is the program is corrupt and needs to be reinstalled at a dealer. heard it can take an hour or so and they hook your car up to a battery charger while they do the install from a laptop. costs around $100.00. just what I have heard. My brother had this issue on a newer DODGE RAM diesel pick up. happened after a cooling system flush. they back flushed it and all was well again. IMO, Ford really should have a TSB on this problem and correct it no charge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-WvoAPCv3w I believe this is what needs to be done on my edge... link wont work, but it is under 'diagnostic quick tips-ford flash reprogramming-YouTube"

multi tester shows equal voltage with key in on position for both connectors, left and right @ BDA'S. pin tested orange and black only of the 5 wire connecting clip. noticed that the orange and black wires are reversed (in connecting clip) for opposite side of vehicle. Could this explain why d/s abd's did not move when connected at p/s for movement test? does anyone have an idea on how I can run a diagnostics test for climate control? I can get into the diag. screen on touch screen....but don't know procedure from there, if there is one. still plugging away........................................sigh.

wow, great info and thank you....again my car 2013 AWD SEL edge with myfordtouch ATC, heated seats. 88,000 miles, My attempt to get a health report through syncmyride.com failed as it appears this vehicle was originally sold in or to Canada. was of the belief that it was a lease return, I purchased it here in MN. from a dealership about two years ago. I suppose this is why, when I do a "master reset" the miles will switch to km and the temperature settings show in Celsius? easy to switch back on touch menu screen, Owners manual claims 30-amp fuse #28 is for heated seats. I removed it and checked it anyway, appears good....also removed and checked twice, the two interior fuses for climate control, both 10A, #37 & #46. both are like new. Almost acting like a software issue. Like the system fails to recognize the new BDA's?... I don't understand why I cannot at least plug a new BDA into the working P/S harness and get some type of movement as I go up and down the temp scale on touch screen? Tried both new BDA's motorcraft YH1876 and std motor products J04022. that HVAC module swap, I am afraid is over my head....if I had a scan tool (not sure of the cost) I might give it a go...great how to pdf file included. Dealer may get to figure this one out eventually.... remembering the not so old days when you just had to remove the chip (GM) from the old "brain" and install in the new.