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2kool

Edge Member
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About 2kool

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  1. 2kool

    Bad brake booster?

    update: got my $150.00 refunded as brake diag. was not authorized.
  2. After booster and or M/C replacement and soft pedal still exist....take out on dirt road and activate ABS forward and reverse a few times, problem solved! dont spend $14-1,700 dollars at dealer to have HCU replaced when it is just a stuck valve.
  3. dealer just did the free booster replacement and tested m/c. problem still exist, says it has to be the HCU , wants $1,400.00 to replace it. not happening. will question them on the ABS bleed. going to pick it up shortly. thanks.
  4. 2kool

    Bad brake booster?

    2013 edge, 111,000 miles, pedal slowly going to floor last week . dealer swapped booster today under customer satisfaction program, (free) and tested master cylinder. says problem still exist. wants $1,400.00 to replace some module under the master cylinder/booster area. ?? no fuking way. going to pick it up shortly and will try the dirt road trick. thanks. I did not see this module available on rock auto? anyone know where I can find it and if I can swap if need be? thanks, TOM okay, UPDATE: back from dealer, new booster but charged me $150.00 for brake system diagnostic. and want to replace HCU ..........nope, drove home but took a dirt road and activated ABS @ about 30 mph. pedal and brakes felt completely normal!! did it in reverse also for good measure, but I am back in business, guessing stuck valve!! thank you!!!!
  5. yes, i have that little squeak now as my pedal slowly goes down farther than it ever did. I hope I can trace this to e-brake adjust or simply bad rear caliper. started shortly after we used the e brake (2013 edge) for the 1st time in a long while.... I did have a stuck rear caliper about a year ago on the driver side, I replaced it and has been fine so hoping it is just time to swap out the other rear caliper. will do some testing later today.
  6. 2013 EDGE SEL driver side blend door replaced and still a no go. I have removed my blend door motor and use my hand to manually push and pull the linkage in order to open or shut the door all the way. one way for heat, the other to cool. i have to wedge a piece of small cardboard in to keep in cool position or it does not stay. I have tried all the fixes and 3 new motors to no avail. My best guess is the program is corrupt and needs to be reinstalled at a dealer. heard it can take an hour or so and they hook your car up to a battery charger while they do the install from a laptop. costs around $100.00. just what I have heard. My brother had this issue on a newer DODGE RAM diesel pick up. happened after a cooling system flush. they back flushed it and all was well again. IMO, Ford really should have a TSB on this problem and correct it no charge.
  7. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-WvoAPCv3w I believe this is what needs to be done on my edge... link wont work, but it is under 'diagnostic quick tips-ford flash reprogramming-YouTube"
  8. multi tester shows equal voltage with key in on position for both connectors, left and right @ BDA'S. pin tested orange and black only of the 5 wire connecting clip. noticed that the orange and black wires are reversed (in connecting clip) for opposite side of vehicle. Could this explain why d/s abd's did not move when connected at p/s for movement test? does anyone have an idea on how I can run a diagnostics test for climate control? I can get into the diag. screen on touch screen....but don't know procedure from there, if there is one. still plugging away........................................sigh.
  9. wow, great info and thank you....again my car 2013 AWD SEL edge with myfordtouch ATC, heated seats. 88,000 miles, My attempt to get a health report through syncmyride.com failed as it appears this vehicle was originally sold in or to Canada. was of the belief that it was a lease return, I purchased it here in MN. from a dealership about two years ago. I suppose this is why, when I do a "master reset" the miles will switch to km and the temperature settings show in Celsius? easy to switch back on touch menu screen, Owners manual claims 30-amp fuse #28 is for heated seats. I removed it and checked it anyway, appears good....also removed and checked twice, the two interior fuses for climate control, both 10A, #37 & #46. both are like new. Almost acting like a software issue. Like the system fails to recognize the new BDA's?... I don't understand why I cannot at least plug a new BDA into the working P/S harness and get some type of movement as I go up and down the temp scale on touch screen? Tried both new BDA's motorcraft YH1876 and std motor products J04022. that HVAC module swap, I am afraid is over my head....if I had a scan tool (not sure of the cost) I might give it a go...great how to pdf file included. Dealer may get to figure this one out eventually.... remembering the not so old days when you just had to remove the chip (GM) from the old "brain" and install in the new.
  10. throwing the towel in on this , just cant figure it out. new BDA , nothing, swapped it to p/s with no movement there...almost like they are the wrong DBA'S , but I have triple checked... I did find out how to get into the diagnostic mode for mytouch. you have to (key on, eatc powered on) press eject and seek. going to sign up with syncmyride.com , see if I can get a health report.
  11. have been thinking about trying that...just did not want to engage in the extra labor.....the glove box is a fairly easy removal so if I do not get a response from the new DBA, I will swap p/s over and observe....great thinking PEDRO.
  12. yes. I have sync with mytouch....only have touch controls. my display and controls look nothing like the attachment from your post. I still tried it anyway, but does not respond or go to diag. mode through power, def. or any other combo... owners manual shows there is a way to get to or take a vehicle health test where I believe it will print out vehicle health/history, have not gone there yet, but did find and do a master reset, (restored factory defaults)......... On the d/s, the linkage moves freely, the temp changes with the movement and on the screen, the temp display goes up and down and beeps with every touch just like the p/s.......just like last year, after a summer of running the a/c, when we finally asked it for heat, BDA did not respond on d/s.......did the re plug it in boot and it worked for last season, did not work this time around..... I watch the p/s DBA work as I raise and lower temp for that side so I thought since the motors appear to be the same except for linkage, I should be able to test my d/s BDA by just plugging it in and watching for movement as I vary the temp setting. but no go for either my old or the new one I had. I have a new motor coming this week...the DBA's wire and clip visually appear fine. thanks for helping and will report back.
  13. Omar, thank you for your help....D/S actuator is still unresponsive . I was able to find under settings on my touch screen, a master reset option... I did this,..a few directions like remove nav. SD disk, disconnect any blue tooth, phones etc... which did reset all settings to factory. but did not make a difference...just had to re set a few things like miles to km and Fahrenheit from Celsius. considered removing actuator from P/S for trial run on D/S. but I think instead I am going to go purchase another locally while I ponder returning the actuator I received via post. if another new actuator fails to move, I would have to think the problem lies elsewhere within the sync system.....decided to order another new actuator. this time I went with a dormin J04022 from rock auto. returning the other which I hope is/was faulty.
  14. 2013 SEL/AWD, d/s blend door not responding, unplugged and re-plugged and it worked for a year. Quit again this year so I purchased a new blend door actuator, installed, it also is not working, linkage does move freely on car, so I unplugged working passenger side blend motor and plugged new one into it and let it hang no linkage, went from a/c to heat, still does not work.....have not tried to disconnect neg. batt terminal yet. or , have not given a push to arm on motor...was going to send this motor back but am going to try persuasion on the motor arm and the battery reboot. checked both 10 amp fuses for climate control from inside fuse box and both are good. before I give the dealer $100's of $$$, I will run a cable to that D/S linkage to the dash or console and operate it manually!!
  15. Great to know , thank you. does not appear this test works for my sync touch panel though .....this is a 2013 SEL with dual climate control........internet reads a disconnect of neg. batt. cable is what can reboot a troubled system, also, there are 2 10amp interior fuses that operate climate control, checked those and both are good.......last week, I ordered a new o.e.m. part # YH-1876-7t47-193616-b. still unresponsive?? I decide that maybe I could test the new part on the passenger side of the vehicle since it has a working and what appears to be the same blend door motor but with different linkage. so I plugged it in without linkage attached to test and still did not move? I am hoping the new part is also defective and plan to return it and purchase another. this is not a difficult swap but getting frustrating for sure.
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