HappyHourSport

what did you do to make the tweeters fit in the front door? I am looking to get some Focal's also. Thanks.

I drilled out the center of the factory part, then used a dremel with a drum sander attachment to open it up to the same size as the tweeter hole. Then I used some foam seal tape to snug up the tweeter into the factory hole, then did a dab or 2 of epoxy on the back to secure it to the plastic. I will take a pic tomorrow

Focal IS-165 from Woofersetc.com. I would hate to Dremel either really. The tweeter is set in a trim ring that wont be easy to trim down. It looks like you could grind out the inside of the mount in the door easily enough, if you don't mind doing that. I will have to pull the door panel again and hit it with my caliper to see what the potential is.

Dremel away bill, it is worth it.

The Focals tweets are worth it. If you just drill out the center of the factory "grill" then use a drum sander attachment to make it flush to the tweeter hole, you are good to go. Looks perfect. I used bit of foam seal tape around the tweeter housing to make it snug, then a couple small bridges of epoxy to secure it from the back

Here you go man. Good luck!

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19493-completed-custom-subwooferampspeaker-install-with-pics-and-diagrams-for-2015-sport-lots-of-pics/

6.5's on all fours.

lol Give me some time to get the Focals really singing. The enclosure on the 2015 is way different then earlier years. This is what my factory enclosure looks like. And I believe its actually a 6.5 in there.

I am dead set on keeping my factory head unit so I can keep all of my functions. The Core-1 should fix all of my critical (to me) issues plus give me plenty options for later. My 12 is plenty of low end. I guess doing some REW work will help my decision.

Well my plan is to still tap into front mids, and rear, then sum them at the Core, as I am doing with the LC7i, That way I get voice commands still from the fronts. I am kind of leaning toward option 3 and adding a small sub crossed over from 80 to 120 or so. Mainly to alleviate some load from the Focals and cause less front door panel movement. So fronts would be summed signal Focals, rear would be JL components fed by the Sony amp that would also be taped for signal to the Core, that would leave channels 3 and 4 for the extra sub. I am really happy with the sound from the Focals so I am not sure I really need to go active. Oh decisions decisions.

Now I have my mind going crazy with the Core-1 on the way. I was going to just do the 4 channels to the front and rear components, but now I am thinking of some other options to really use the Core-1 and my 5 channel amp.

Option 1. As described above - 100x4 to components - 500 to sub

Option 2. Go active on front Focals, 100x4 to front doors, rear components on factory amp, 500 to sub

Option 3. Channels 1 and 2 to front Focals, rear components off factory amp, channels 3 and 4 running a 6.5 or 8 inch bass driver in the factory box/location, then 500 to sub.

I wouldn't mind taking some of the work load off of the components. And with the crossover options of the Core-1 I think I cold pull it off. Any thoughts guys?

Nice

Good info! Glad to see some 15 info hitting the web. Got lucky as I fumbled through my interior panels. Was to scared to attack the dash!

Yeah let me know if you need any help. I have taken it all apart a few times lol.

Also, is that your door or is the red the vinyl you are talking about. Have a link for that.

Eh, .... 90? Where do you live, Wyoming, Texas, Boston?

Keep going up with others on a trip to Vegas. I didn't even know we were going that fast lol. I don't make it a habit.

Thanks Red, evolving is a good word for it. Lol Loving the new Focals. The PS165 were totally worth the little extra. Now I have the JL components in the rear and Focals up front. The tweeters did not fit well at all! Lol. I had to cut through the front plastic grill area and flush mount them in the door. Pretty sketchy install on a brand new car and made a slip with a dremel that hopefully only I notice lol. Turned out great though. I am keeping the center and rear pillars on the factory amp.

Unfortunately my resistor setup did not resolve my noise or slight pop issue at all, even somehow forced my LC7i on all the time, with the same hiss. I am now returning my LC7i and ordered a Massive Core-1 DSP so I can crossover the high noise out. I am assuming I will still add the load bank to the factory amp before the Core-1 to alleviate any issues with the Sony amp getting hot or frying filters. Pulled the fuse on my system until I get the DSP in because I couldn't take the low volume noise. Wow, a center and back speakers only sounds like Shiot.

Story of my life that I should have spent a little more in the beginning to save my self the pain.

Eight:

The manual I got on eBay is a body service manual. I bought it for like 60 bucks in the hopes of getting some back when I sell it. Anything under 2015 you can usually get a disc for 9 bucks on eBay.

Never mind. Hooked it up today and it didn't do sh**, except not allow the LC7i or amp power down, all while still making the whine. Think I may go crazy! I don't even want to count the hours I have in this build! Lol

Hey guys,

Adding this to it's own thread in hopes of helping others.

I just finished doing a major install in my 2015 edge only to struggle with a high pitched noise, added heat and turn on thumps. After doing research I found this thread in regard to the same symptoms and the factory Sony amp.

http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-electronics/28810-must-read-if-you-upgrade-you-2014-s-stereo-avoid-damage.html

Others have been having tweeters, amps, and caps burn up due to the high frequency emitted from the Class D amp running unloaded. This, of course, send that same high frequency to your pre amp outputs of any LOC. Some have ran multiple crossovers to resolve this, but they still run into thumps and heat. To resolve this we need to put load back on the amp from the speakers we took off. So for me, I unhooked Front Mids and Tweets (4), rear doors (2) and sub (2). This means I needed to add 8 resistors to the factory amp output. Here is what I came up with with after reading the Focus thread.

I 3D printed a generic case, cut up a clipboard, and went at it with parts all from Amazon.

This is a drawing from one of the guys on the other thread to show you how it all comes together, just my resistors are all in one spot.

I can do a parts list if needed. I will be installing today and hope it takes care of my issues.

Here is a link to my build if curious.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19493-completed-custom-subwooferampspeaker-install-with-pics-and-diagrams-for-2015-sport-lots-of-pics/?do=findComment&comment=144826

Now this is taken from one of the Focus guys to show pretty much how it is going to work.

Alright, Lots has been changing in my system lately! Ended up cooking a JL sub some how. Crutchfield was quick to replace it with no issues. I ended up getting spoiled by the Focal's in my F150 and decided I needed them in the Edge also.

I put in the PS165 component set in and love them. I really feel they are totally worth the extra. JL components will now be put into the rear.

But here is the pain. Since installing everything and taking most of the load off of the factory amp, I get a high pitched whine (not ground loop noise) and some odd characteristics out of the setup, making me not to happy. After some research I found this thread.

http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-electronics/28810-must-read-if-you-upgrade-you-2014-s-stereo-avoid-damage.html

It all seemed to fit my issues. So I made this.

It is a set of 10 ohm, 10watt resistors used to place load on the Sony class D amp. This is setup for 8 channels, 4 front, 2 rear, 2 sub. This should take away all of my noise and turn on pops. Upgrading to the Focal's really made my noise apparent and forced me to remedy it. Here is how it went together.

Ready to be wired in.

I have noticed some shimmy with my hood up around 90. Haven't had the issue at slower speeds

Good to know what to look for if others get the noise! Thanks for sharing the fix!

I am. Haven't really noticed any cancellation yet. Actually had my JL 12 start to smell real bad so I think I have a voice coil going out. Strange. Got it "scratch and dent". Working with Crutchfield now on a replacement. Oh that cooked electronics smell!

Finished a write up on the install in another link for the 2015 Edge, seing how everything is different now! Here is a link with the complete build if wanted.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19493-completed-custom-subwooferampspeaker-install-with-pics-and-diagrams-for-2015-sport-lots-of-pics/?do=findComment&comment=143914

SO here is the finished install,

The only thing you can see, if you look hard.

Pro Tip, that little seat tray is held on by 3 star screws on the front, and 4 on the rear. Kinda a pain.

Finished amp

Finished Sub - You can see the risers I made to keep the floor about an inch above the sub. Have plenty of clearance for extension.

Together

Seat down

And this is what you get when you try to go on your first trip to listen to it. Between this and forgetting to tighten the amp bolts I told myself, "You can't forget that" I only had to take 2 panels off again!

SO all in all, it sounds amazing and I am super happy with it. I may try and find some Focal's and move the JL's to the rear (still stock there), because I love my Focals in the F150

Hope this helps someone with a 15!!!

Soldered all connections since I didn't want to trace any issues later. Glad I had lots of shrinkwrap and wire cover.

Finished taping into the factory amp for signal, then factory wiring for distribution. Used Front Tweeter and Front Midbass signals for channels 1 and 2 on the LC7i, summed 1 and 2, left 3 separate for subwoofer output.

Sound deaden what I could.

Install door speaker, had to make my own baffles to fit the JL C2-650's. Don't bother buying any adapters. Cut mine in 10 minutes with what I had. Spent 2 hours working on adapters I thought would work, but no 6x8's for me.

Used some spare RC battery connections for tweeter quick connect/disconnect.

Cut some foam surrounds to bring the speaker up to the factory height, direct the sound through the door instead of inside of it.

Next was about 2 hours of trying to figure out how to get the door panels off. Finally just popped out the bottom and looked in there. Remove larger bolts, 2 smaller ones at the bottom, then pop everything out.

Remove sail panel (just pops out)

Pop out panel behind handle, starting at the front - Bolt there

Pop out switch cover from the outside/back - Bolt there

Unclip switches/ambient lighting/yada yada to remove panel - Handle assembly is held onto door panel by 3 - star bit screws, must be removed to take panel off. Tweeter is in this assembly. Handle assembly stays attached to the door. Other shown panels just snap up, pull from the inside for sill panels, mind electrical connections.

Next is the sub box, amp, LC7i, and crossover install. I knew I wouldn't be happy just swapping the factory sub so I built my first fiberglass box. Turned out great for the JL shallow mount 12.

Hole for amp wiring. The hole most people used for earlier Edges seemed impossible for me to get to, even with no battery in. Luckily after some investigating I found a perforated cut out in the carpet just below the other main grommet. Under it was a new unused plug, drilled and added a grommet and bingo. Saved my sanity!

Mounted the LC7i under the factory amp plate, crossovers under

Hey Guys, Just figured I would start a new post to show my completed install on my 2015 Edge Sport. I was not able to find ANYTHING on the 2015 so hopefully this will help some.

First things first:

No 6x8's in this beast, doors are not even cut for them. Factory 6.5 with extended mounting surround, didn't even measure the hole.

No undo, lift and pull on the door panels, undo and pop off.

Old factory harness's don't work all harnesses I saw were 4 conductor

Here is what's going in.

Keep in mind this is for Sony Premium sound and touchscreen Nav

So here it is.

Wiring Diagrams - Tap in after factory amp. I left factory Rear Quarter Panel and Sub hooked up hoping to put some load on the amp.

Speaker wiring out.

I actually just wrapped up my install this weekend. Ended up pulling high levels from Front Tweeter, Front Mid, and Rear Sub signal from after the amp. Had to do mids or Sync and phone only went through the tweeters. Factory sub is still hooked up, to put load on factory amp. I had to dial my LC7i gains WAY down to stop a hiss at no volume. That may be normal.

I am honestly blown away with how good it sounds. Best sounding that I have installed! lol Not nearly as much vibrations as I had feared. Keeping factory rear door components until I find another set of JL's on sale. I can't believe how low and loud this shallow JL gets. Will post a few more pics with some how to's for the '15 guys, but here it is now. Side tray is just foam, thankfully!