Jsmith10000

That's correct. The only fuel filter is a small filter on the bottom of the pump on the inside and it's permanently attached. Replacing the pump also replaces the filter. No in-line filter.

Thank you for the information. With your assistance I have discovered 2 problems that caused this to happen and I fixed both and now the car is as quiet as a kitten and passes people on the interstate like a Cheetah lol. That new pump coupled with this great V6 and AWD makes for very speedy and responsive acceleration. I will list the 2 problems and what I did to fix it below. Problem 1 There was in fact a disconnected vacuum hose. I think that the dealership that I had to drop my car off at when it originally broke down failed to reattach all of the vacuum hoses after doing their troubleshooting. I discovered a vacuum hose that runs from the back of the black plastic intake to a hose that connects to the brake booster was not connected properly. There's a joint in the hose directly behind the battery and it wasn't pushed in all the way. (fig. 1) I was just resting on the opening of the joint instead like as if someone was going to push it back on but didn't. I alao noticed that the other end of the brake booster hose that connects to the mair air intake on the other side of the MAF sensor wasn't pushed in all the way either. (fig. 2) After I reconnected the hose and pushed the other in all the way the diesel engine rattle disappeared from acceleration but the car kept throwing the codes. (Note: Both pictures are taken after I fixed it. It's just for reference.) Problem 2 Since the codes kept coming back it dawned on me that the computer learns how your engine runs and adjusts according to what it knows about the engine parameters.I figured maybe it was still looking for my old pump (pressure readings) or it was still trying to overcorrect from the air leak. Either way I figured I could jump start it by forcing the computer to relearn everything. So I just simply disconnected the battery for 10 minutes and then the computer would have to relearn the engine. Afterwards I took it for a test drive and the car ran good but shifted rough. After about 15 minutes of driving through town, and then on the highway, it started to shift super smooth. Just to make sure the codes wouldn't come back I drove it to work and back which is 50 miles round trip and they never came back and I haven't heard the rattle since I first reconnected the brake booster hose. So all in all it's back to its like new feel and performance. Thanks again.

Hello again. I just wrote up a how-to on changing the fuel pump on my 09 Ford Edge and I was elated to get the car up and running again but unfortunately it seems life wants to take another jab at me. I just got my car back on the road after changing the fuel pump in my Edge and everything ran great and still does but here's the problem. It's now showing a engine service light and when I hook up the reader it gives me the codes P0171 and P0174 which are 'running too lean' on banks 1 and 2. To further this new mystery is that when I'm just starting to accelerate or when I'm at cruising speed and I slowly give it some gas, a diesel sounding rattle comes from the engine. If I punch it a little or press harder it clears up the noise but the codes come back every time I clear it. It doesn't seem to affect engine performance either which is odd. I cleaned the MAF sensor and ran seafoam through 1 tank and no change. Any ideas to this mystery? I might just take it in to the dealer later but for now I like self maintenance routes the best. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the extra info. This is what I was looking for before I replaced the pump but couldn't find it anywhere. Hopefully all of this info will save someone willing to do it themselves a lot money.

Thank you for the compliment. It has 75,700 miles which is what shocks me but maybe i just got unlucky and got the shoddy one.

Hello all I'm new to the forum but I had a problem with my 09 Ford Edge AWD. The fuel pump started going out in it and I couldn't find a decent how-to on it anywhere so I made one! I posted it here. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19380-a-bad-fuel-pump-and-a-how-to-on-an-09-edge-limited-w-awd/ I find this forum very helpful and wanted to contribute. Cheers!

I have a story to tell as well as a how-to on an 09 Ford Edge Limited w/ AWD fuel pump assembly. This is my first post here but I wanted to be useful instead of whiny so here is my story lol. The Story I was driving my family out of state to a family reunion/Thanksgiving vacation. I was about an hour and a half from home on the interstate doing 75 mph when all of a sudden the edge went idle and lost power. The gas pedal was unresponsive and I pulled off the interstate as quickly as possible. On the side of the road the edge refused to respond to the gas pedal and it idled very rough. I could get it to slowly crawl forward if I held the gas pedal to the floor. I called a tow truck and they towed my car to a local ford dealer and dropped my family off at the car rental place. I got the rental, got all of our stuff out of the car at the dealer and continued my journey. The next day the dealer calls and tells me that they thought the problem was the throttle body sticking or failed but it turned out to be the fuel pump not operating properly. They informed me of a $1000 repair bill to fix this and I balked at it immediately (having done many fuel pumps in the past myself but on older vehicles) and told them heck no I’ll tow it back home when I get back. After towing it home with my truck and a car hauler I couldn’t find any how-to’s on how to replace the fuel pump. So because of this I winged it with little information and I come to find out this was the easiest fuel pump job I have ever done. So without further ado I will provide a text and picture how-to. Side note here, I didn’t think about making a how-to until I was almost done so I made as many pics as I could to make it easy to find and know what to look for. The rest is pretty straight forward if you’re at least a little mechanically inclined it shouldn't be hard at all. The How-To (Est. to complete: 1 hour) Step 1. Preparation First I released fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump fuse and letting the car run dry then I unplugged the battery in the car. I removed the rugs from the carpet in front of the rear seats and cleaned the area to help reduce trash and dirt from getting into the tank later. Step2. Gaining Access The fuel pump sits underneath an access cover plate located underneath the rear driver side seat. I removed the trim caps off the leg feet exposing the nut and bolt. Using a long breaker bar and an 18 mm socket I removed the bolt from the left seat leg and a nut/washer combo on the right leg. (Fig. 1) After that I just simply raised the seat up and used the seat belt to hold it up by yanking the seat belt to lock it in place. (Fig. 2) Next I carefully pulled the carpet up while being mindful not to catch the wires running through a slit in the carpet. After lifting the carpet up you’ll see a nice big tin colored access cover with 4 Philips head screws. (Fig. 3) Remove the cover and you’ll see the fuel pump and it will have a plug and a hose running to it. (Fig. 4 shows what the pump looks like from the top but it was after I had already removed it from the tank.) Just push a tab in on the plug to pull it off and push to tabs in on the hose quick disconnect and it will pop off. Now take a brass punch or a flat head screwdriver along with a rubber mallet or hammer and slowly work the lock ring off the top. NO SPARKS so be careful about this step. You now have full access to the fuel pump. Step 3. Removal and Install Blow off and wipe off any dust or dirt to keep it out of the tank. Now slowly pull the pump up and out of the tank. Be very careful and slow because the fuel pump is like a bucket and will hold gas, plus the fuel level arm will get in the way so you have to take the pump out at an angle and there’s also another hose attached to the bottom of the pump but I think this is an AWD specific thing and FWD models don’t have the 2nd hose but don’t quote me lol. (Fig. 5 shows what the pump looks like) Just pinch the 2 tabs and it comes right off. Tip the pump (bucket) to pour the remaining gas back into the tank. I had an actual bucket handy and put the old pump in it to keep gas from getting in the car. From this point on the install is just the reverse of the removal but I have a couple of key notes on the install. Key Notes on Install Remember to remove the old green gasket and replace it with a new fresh gasket ring. Don’t forget to attach the bottom hose before putting it in. Also when putting the lock ring back on there are little notches that align with a “bump” on the ring to indicate it’s fully locked. Make sure the line up before you put the access cover back on. When putting the seats back you can pull the legs out to make sure they clear the other seat to ensure there’s no catching and tearing of the seat fabric. The metal is quite sharp and it shaved a little skin off my finger during the process. Also make sure those bolts are nice and tight. It’s got to hold up in the event of a crash. I used a genuine Ford Motorcraft part for this replacement and I got it brand new for $170 with free shipping off of eBay. I have included a picture of the sticker from the box the part came in. The part number is PFS-515 or 8T4Z-9H307-A (Fig. 6) I hope this helps anyone who needs to replace a fuel pump or the fuel level sending unit. Thanks for reading my story and my how-to!