jspec

I am with you 100%. I bought a brand new S150 from the ebay seller I suggested. 1 year later I get a bad shudder from the rear. I replaced the rear axles and checked the driveshaft which all look perfect. Dealer said it was differential bushings. I replaced those. No good. I unplug the rear diff and it is gone. So no shavings or anything in the oil but I would guess the clutch is gone. Hitting OK on the dash to clear the error is easier then fixing this POS RDU.

Try finding a S-150 the S-154 are impossible to find. I would try to find an aluminum cover one at the very least. I am sure you will get a code on the iron cover unit but who knows it may work fine. These RDUs seem to be witch craft that cannot be repaired and no real information available.

I also want to mention to anyone doing this Job. Get a Lisle 40100 Hub Remover (or a copy on Amazon) I just did the rear axles as I am having some vibration in the rear end. I got stuck rusted Midwest salt road bearings out in 10 minutes. When I suggested to just pull the rear knuckle I didn't know this tool existed. This was the best $29 I have ever spent on a tool and I have bought a ton of tools over the years!!

The Chinese version has no code. I am not sure that it matters and if anyone has had luck. Where did you purchase it from?

The Chinese ones cannot be coded and from what I read they only last a year. There are no differential parts available as far a gears and such so they are not rebuildable units. I put a s-150 in and it seems to be working fine. You can fine those cheap on eBay. I saw a YouTube video where they put a S162 in. I believe either are fine as long as it has the Code to put in. I would just fine the lowest mileage S-150 unit and go with that. They suck to put in. If you are in the rust area forget your rear bearings and just pull the whole rear knuckle.

I just replaced mine. I got mine on Ebay for around $960 from a seller in UTAH. I replaced it with a S-150-A it works fine. I do not notice a difference. I am not sure What the difference is but the S154a was only sold for 2 years in the MKX and Edge.

You have to siphon out the oil. There is no drain plug. If you see metal you can verify That is it is the rear diff going bad. It may just be the front clutch pack which is much easier to replace vs the Whole RDU unit. On a side note If you do get into replacing the RDU it was easier to just pull the rear knuckles then trying to get the wheel bearings out.

Get all 4 wheels in the air and get under and listen. Any metal in the differential oil?

I am going through this on my MKX. I was going to get the Chinese one but I was told they do not code out. There is a seller on Ebay that sells the factory rear ends for around $985 " judgementdeytrading" That is the best deal I have found. My guess is your Rear end is the same as mine but send him a message and ask if it will work.

Did anyone actually replace the rear end with something other then a S154A. Would the s164A work? Seems like they are just revisions of the rear end.

So I figured I would continue this thread as there is a lot of good information here. My 2014 MKX 124k miles needs a new RDU. I just got quoted by the dealer $5400 to replace it. Seems nutty. The RDU is about $1800 online or $2421 at the dealer. Seems like there are a ton on Ebay that are either remanufactured or New coming out of china. Has anyone used these? I have a 2011 parts car but the rdu is leaking from the axle seals and the rear cover. That one maybe a lost cause. Any advice would be appreciated.

So I wanted to pop back on here and help the next guy who is in the same situation. 2007-2010 with 1 bolt oil cooler is fine. If you have an oil cooler and it is a 2007-10 you can buy a motor without an oil cooler and transfer the adapter onto your new motor which is what I did. Be sure to flush the adapter and cooler if there was an oil issue. $300 for a 65k motor and $1000 labor. $240 in parts. Runs great!!

So my waterpump failed at 135k miles. I was going to fix it but I checked on car-part and the motors with oil cooler are around $650 for a low mile motor under 45k miles. I can buy a motor without the oil cooler for even less. $300-400 range. I have also read that the 2007-2008 motors when the waterpump fails it puts coolant into the oil like mine did. Anyways After 2009 they have the 3.5L with a 3 bolt oil cooler. Would that work? Let me know your thoughts. And thanks in advance for the help. Ford Edge Engine Removal.pdf