Mustangfreak

I replaced the booster, and it feels much better, but I have a vacuum leak now, and there was a o-ring/gasket that came with the booster, but no instructions, and no clear indication as to where it goes. Where do I put this gasket?

Edit: I'm such an idiot, I figured out the gasket went on the master cylinder. LOL. Car feels back to 100% now!

Hi everyone, I have a 2010 MKX and about 3 weeks ago my wife said the brakes feel bad. I thought it was the front pads as I had put a super cheap pair in at the beginning of the year. So I replaced the fronts with some premium pads. Rotors looked good, but I made a note to replace those soon as well. After that, the car felt fine. No issues until the following weekend when I had to slam on the brakes to avoid hitting a person in the road. After that, the brakes felt squishy and needed a lot more effort from the driver to stop. They almost felt like manual brakes. I was hoping that it was the rear pads now, so I replaced those with the same brand/model as the front, and that didnt fix it of course. So I thought it was the master cyl, so I replaced that last weekend and it did not fix it. I bench bled the m/s, and have bled the brakes lots of times and there is no air in the lines. 

Is this an issue with the brake booster diaphragm being ripped? 

just replaced the resistor and it started working, at half speed again. Get home and its barely blowing. Just went out to check the filter, and now it doesnt work at all.

What the heck. I'm sick of this problem. What could be wrong now

I would be curious what you figured out on this, my Ford Edge seems to have the same behavior. I was testing yesterday to see if maybe the evaporator core was freezing up due to low freon. I was driving across LA and back and here's my preliminary testing. If I turned the temperature as LOW as it would go, and the fan on HIGH, within about 20 minutes the air flow got slower and slower to the point it was barely moving air. Then I turned the AC OFF and the fan OFF. Drove 15 minutes and turned fan back ON and temp to LOWEST and it worked great again.

 

So to test if that was from a frozen evaporator (which would act like that more or less), I then kept the fan on HIGH, but turned the AC to about 78 instead of 60. Drove for 40 minutes with no issues. Slowly lowered temperature to around 72 and the fan still kept blowing full speed. So, in my case I'm suspicious that the evaporator core is freezing due to low freon. I'm going to see if there is a way to get a visual on the evaporator to confirm.

 

I'd be interested to know what your fix ends up being.

This did not work.

Right now the fan is not blowing at all, and its 95* avg right now during the day.

Before when it would work a little bit, it seemed that the hotter it was outside, the worse the problem was. We had a couple of days of rain, and it got down to 85, and even down to 80 and the fan worked great and wouldn't slow down.

Is it the resistor for sure now? Or something else?

I would be curious what you figured out on this, my Ford Edge seems to have the same behavior. I was testing yesterday to see if maybe the evaporator core was freezing up due to low freon. I was driving across LA and back and here's my preliminary testing. If I turned the temperature as LOW as it would go, and the fan on HIGH, within about 20 minutes the air flow got slower and slower to the point it was barely moving air. Then I turned the AC OFF and the fan OFF. Drove 15 minutes and turned fan back ON and temp to LOWEST and it worked great again.

 

So to test if that was from a frozen evaporator (which would act like that more or less), I then kept the fan on HIGH, but turned the AC to about 78 instead of 60. Drove for 40 minutes with no issues. Slowly lowered temperature to around 72 and the fan still kept blowing full speed. So, in my case I'm suspicious that the evaporator core is freezing due to low freon. I'm going to see if there is a way to get a visual on the evaporator to confirm.

 

I'd be interested to know what your fix ends up being.

I'm going to try this and report back as well.

Is refilling the freon easy on these cars?

I had this happen before finally the fan motor gave out. Not to say this still couldn't be the resistor, though, that's the difficult part. The TYC fan motor from Amazon or RockAuto is a fairly low-priced DIY-install part. A bit noisier than Motorcraft, but apparently blows more air as well.

 

I remember at least one person having the resistor being the issue, seach the forum for "blower resistor", should get a hit.

I did a search at first and not everyones symptoms were the exact same as mine, so I thought I'd make a post as well.

I called my aftermarket warranty company and they said the control module and blower fan were covered, but the resistor is not. So I think I'm gonna replace the resistor myself, and if that doesn't fix it I'll take it to the dealership.

Edit: After seeing the TYC price on Rock auto, its not worth it to take it to the dealer. I have a $100 deductible, so I'd be wasting money.

I have a 2010 MKX and the HVAC system is acting up. With the controls set to max fan speed, sometimes it'll blow hard, and then sometimes itll blow so soft you can't tell. And then sometimes it will not blow at all. And it seems that the hotter it is outside, or the longer the car is driven, the weaker it'll blow over time.

It's really a gamble when it comes to this. Some days it'll work, and other days like today it won't work at all.

Is it the blower motor resistor? The blower motor itself?

Can I jerry rig this system to work until I can afford to buy new parts?

Thanks guys.