mrtm2016

Okay. So I replaced the alternator, serpentine belt, and some of the rivets in the flywheel because I broke some with my hammer getting angry learning how to reinstall them...

I'll check with the multimeter and post it for you tomorrow.. if i remember correctly it was still reading 13.99 last I checked.

Ah. The battery rests at 13.99 when running and the alternator is just about that. If the alternator voltage runs lower than the battery, is that a bad thing?

Okay, so aside of the type of multi-meter I'm using, dirty terminals would mean that the testing is inaccurate, not the alternator voltage, yes?

Just a heads up. Been driving it around for the last week and doesn't seem to be an issue other than the fact it's resting on the bottom of the tank and the hum from the pump is vibrating the bottom of the tank and producing an annoying hum.

Okay thanks!

Good point. Okay, so let me see if I can run it back up, may use the old fuel pump for now.. I do have an enquiry.

I got a multimeter and tested the Alternator.. Connecting the positive end to Alternator and negative end to negative battery terminal it read a pretty solid 13.58, sometimes dropping to 13.42 but not often. Suggestions?

macbwt, I'm confused what you're suggesting I do with the grounds testing. What exactly does that mean? Please excuse my noobishness. I'd rather take your word than research online if you are able to provide me a clear example. Thanks!

Pretty sure I have a FWD vehicle. So lame. But yet, the pump has been working... is having that extra valve at the bottom going to ruin the engine??

Thanks man. So i put it in and it seems the fuel pump extends all the way to the bottom of the tank. I'm gonna take it back out tomorrow and see if there's a switch I missed... but it's vibrating the bottom of the tank and it's kind of a nuisance.

Okay, so I got a new fuel pump in the mail from Amazon: TOPSCOPE FP2470M - Fuel Pump Module Assembly E2470M fits 2007 2008 2009 2010 FORD EDGE, LINCOLN MKX https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DM6IQE0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Amazon said it didn't fit but the same model for Advance Auto Parts and others said it was fine. The only difference I noticed was the protrusion at the bottom.

I assumed it was a change made after release for easier fuel consumption, but I could be wrong. Here's a picture of my old pump. And the new one is on that page. I'm still having problems with starting the damned car and I'm honestly about to lose it. I've replaced the starter, the fuel pump, spark plugs, battery, and so it looks like it's either an electrical issue (which I'm not gonna diagnose myself, unless it's really as easy as you guys say it is) or the Alternator.

Also, side note. The new pump doesn't float on top like the old one did. It's extended all the way to the bottom of the tank and you can hear the hum it makes vibrating the tank. Is this normal for a new pump or did I neglect to pull out a stopper at some point? K thanks. Appreciate the help guys!

I got the new fuel pump today and I'm curious if I need to put some gas in the filter before securing it back in the tank and firing up the engine. I don't want to damage the filter by starting it out of the box if it needs some gas to start inside of it..

Thanks guys!

Thanks guys.

Yeah, I was a little OCD but very easily could have missed it in the video. By-the-by, you guys are so responsive, this is so helpful. As I'm new to cars I just don't want to leave anything to chance and would rather ask questions and research than just go in and do it myself.

I'll definitely be sure to unplug the wires in the back, thanks so much guys!

I watched this video to guide me along the process of DIY spark plugs changes...

I get all the way to removing the cover off the engine itself and it seems that he assumed maybe somewhere along the way I would figure out something on my own. At the back of the cover itself is a 90 degree bent house with what appears to be a metal casing around it. The top of the house is clamped to the the back of the cover unit and the bottom presumably goes into the engine. He didn't seem to detail it in the video (maybe I had a few too many beers and missed it?) or my Edge is just special. I doubt my car is special, other than the fact it seems to just be a piece of work. Attached is a series of pictures starting from the top, moving to the left side of the cover, and a closeup of the hose at the back, hopefully to show y'all the exact position of the hose. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.

Can anyone guide me with how to properly detach this house to get the top casing off so I can change the back three spark plugs?

Much appreciated, thanks so much.

Okay, so I've taken out the fuel pump and inspected it but it seems not to be an electrical issue. I went ahead and ordered a replacement while I'm here.. I'd like the car to last a long time so might as well replace it since I'm here and it seems like the filter is dirty. Getting it on Friday so will post with an update.

Alternator:: never had the check engine light come on, though we did do a load test while checking the first new battery before replacement.. It came back to say the alternator was fine. No regular signs of alternator issue with lights dimming and such. Didn't turn the wipers on during test. Revved up the engine to about 1.5 - 2k RPMs and had the stereo and ac and lights all on at the same time. When the car is off, actually, the remote locks respond a lot quicker now with the new battery and it hasn't drained at all it would seem. Just still slow to start.

I've got no after-market parts. But what's this one-by-one testing? I may do that.. I'm not the most experienced with electrical equipment, would be scared of shocking myself without trusted starting information.

I'm also replacing all the spark plugs. The first three I've taken out seems to be decently worn - figured that's an easy thing to switch out while the car is stalled anyway. Haven't had an misfires, but who knows - mileage has been shitty for the last year so this could likely be a cause of the issue, battery issues aside.

Hey there. About 116k, bought used at 67k from the dealer. Never had any issues until recently. I'm considering replacing spark plugs as well. Thanks, I'll check for the Alternator replacement, but the battery itself is holding a charge, it's just that when I try to start it's having a serious issue starting. When I turn the A/C off it seems to alleviate the battery load and then get enough power to somewhere else to get the engine going. Doesn't start with the A/C on.

I went to the auto store and they ran a test that said it wasn't the alternator. ran it twice. said it was just a dead battery and then had it replaced, which means something has to be draining it, yeah?

2007 Ford Edge SE. Very first, very basic. But it works. Hopefully this will help somebody out there.. I know this has been a frustration of mine for quite some time now. Here's the abridged version.

Never worked on cars before - fast learner and attention to detail.

1. Transmission seemed to start slipping; didn't do anything about it until seemed to be persistent/safety concern.

2. Drained Transmission oil (there's a simple drain plug on bottom of transaxle, sticks out) and refilled. Required 10 quarts, though about 1.5 quarts remained from the old fluid, so needed to drain some of the extra to level off correctly. Did NOT see metal flakes in the old (disgustingly black) transmission oil. Smelled burnt, definitely not a lifetime oil, and serious concern for transmission health. Transmission works fine, it just seems the car is getting old and worn and should be handled with more care than previously given (don't drive as a performance car if it ain't designed for it).

3. Week later, car slow to start. By third time starting it that day, won't start and need jump from running vehicle. Battery is only a year old, under warranty got it replaced. THEN, five days later, car SUDDENLY really slow to start.. obvious problem. Don't want to bother auto store with more battery tests, talk to mechanics at Jiffy lube and listen to car.. Diagnosis:

- No normal signs of Alternator issues

- Starter is turning, probably not the issue, could be though since alternator seems not to be source

- Fuel pump likely culprit (but ford put them inside the gas tank, so that's a pain in the ass and unrealistic to fix)

Go back to get battery tested, it's completely dead. Considering new option..

4. Replaced starter. When starting first time, it sounds like the engine has a better grasp and run on itself, though it's still slow to start. Take it back to Auto store, run test, battery dead. That's only 6 days with the new battery. It's now believed that there's likely an electrical issue that's causing the battery to drain.

CURRENT DAY..

Through a post on this thread I've determined it's possible to service your own fuel pump, but that the electrical issue may just be the wires feeding into the fuel pump, causing it to slow possibly from corrosion or a blockage of some sort. Learned that you can take out the seats, but it's a sweaty job in TX.

5. Fuel Pump inspection.. HOW TO GET THERE..

a. take out floor in back

b. take out smaller rear passenger-side seat first (will need deep socket wrenches and some legit strength, some of those nuts are tight), THEN driver-side rear seat.

c. BE SURE TO UNHOOK ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS TO SEATS.

d. lift carpet and use regular phillips screw head to open floor to access fuel pump electrical connections..

.. Resuming in the afternoon.

I seriously lack in electrical knowledge, but I grew up around people who understood it so I feel confident I can atleast recognize if there's a legit burn or corrosion.

Thanks CB and Ravenrick96 for the detailed info. I'm having the same issue, sure is a pain for the pump and filter both to be in the actual gas tank.