Ray Heath Jr
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Posts posted by Ray Heath Jr
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What Quila said. With ZERO help from any of those that I asked, I did some testing today, tried to do it via some modded install files, but ultimately went 3.0 unofficial, to 2.2 to 3.0 Official. Can’t use 2.3 because it does version checking and won’t allow it to back rev.
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Same Motor, different tune. ST will have the same Motor also, just the 8 Speed Trans. It will have the 335 Tune, the GCC has now on the Edge.
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Anybody do the prerelease and can't get the official to install even though it is newer. I have 17276, and the official is 18025. I have tried both my Edge and Expy, same results. Goes through the motions, says it is going to reboot and finish, and the version never changes. Need to know how I should modify the install to force it to install. Thanks.
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This would be useful in case of screen blackout, from the 2016 Edge Owners manual for Sync 3:
It is more than 2-3 seconds. My experience is 6+ seconds. Just hold them until it turns black then release.
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2.2 is NOT available to end users for units that came with 2.0 from the factory. Dealer upgrade only at this time per Ford. Frankly it sounds like your dealer needs some training. Updating to 2.2 does not require anything be taken apart.
Thanks Jason or the clarity...
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Couldn't get to forum via FB login that I have been using since I joined. Had to do a password reset to the e-mail address associated with account, and not I am logged in again...but VERY annoying!
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I have already updated the USB hub to get Apple Carplay on my Sync 2.0. I asked Ford Service on Twitter about updating to 2.2. They were going to charge me $150 to do the update because they have to take the trim off to get to a USB connection near the APIM. They told me that it possibly could freeze during the update which then they would need to change the APIM (covered under warranty) but the new APIM would not have V2.2. Then do the update again with the possibility of it not working. So it sounded like a version of Groundhog Day. So I am going to wait until a new software update is available from owner.ford.com for the Amazon Alexa functionality. I might try a different dealer to see what they have to say.
Yeah, connect to Wifi and try updating via the Unit. If not, go to Owner.ford.com and download the 2.2 update. It should be available to all Edges now.
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I installed the 2.2 software update without any real issue. My problem is that no matter what combination of trim pullers I try, I can't seem to get the old USB hub out. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Look back in this thread, and look for images and attack it from the side.
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Ray: Understood. Sometimes hastily written messages come across in an unintended way.
I'm going to order one of those meters, thanks for the link. I was disappointed to realize that my USB analyzer didn't monitor the power lines, but its been a few years since I've had to work on usb hardware.
My real concern here isn't how the port works per se, just that the phone is supplied with enough power to keep it from draining the battery, particularly when Google Maps and Android Auto (which I have mixed feelings about) is being used. I was recently on a long trip in an unfamiliar area, using Waze to navigate. The port in the rental vehicle couldn't keep up with the phone's power demands and the battery eventually drained to 0 in a place where I really needed navigation assistance. And of course, I left both my spare battery and portable power pack back home. Had to drive around aimlessly until I found someone I could ask for directions.
Of course, with Android Auto the phone's screen generally isn't on so power requirements are reduced, but I don't know that a 500ma port is still enough to prevent battery drain. I'm still under the (perhaps incorrect) assumption that the Edge is only providing 500ma. I'll report back when the meter arrives and I've had a chance to test it.
10-4, Keep us in the loop.
I know my 2017 Version of the Hub in my Edge and Expedition are both providing over 1.5A to my iPhone 7 when it is below 50%.
If yours is not, I would take it up with the dealership.
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The car handles so good now that the seats don't give enough lateral support ! ! LOL
Just for clarity, this is with the lowering springs?
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Ray, not sure why you think I'm grumpy, nothing was intended to come across that way.
I have an Ellisys USB protocol analyzer but unfortunately this model only tracks the data lines. Nevertheless, I'm an engineer and do have more than a simplified understanding of the technology.
I've gathered four 12v usb adapters: 500ma, 1a, 2a and QC 2.0. The phone shows "USB" charging for the 500ma, "AC" for the 1 and 2a, "Fast" for the QC and "USB" for the Edge's ports.
I understand that the phone (or any other usb device for that matter) will only draw what it needs depending on the state of the device at any given point in time. In this case, the state of the device is exactly the same for each tested port, except for trivial differences in remaining battery capacity. Same cable, same running apps, same screen brightness, same radios enabled, etc.
Seems reasonable to conclude that the Edge port is only capable of 500ma. Otherwise, why would the phone not recognize this (and only this) port as an "AC" port, when it supposedly can deliver up to 2a?
If the Edge's "smart" port really is trying to be smart and only advertises itself as being capable of what the phone needs at that point in time, then how would the phone know it could draw more when it needs to?
I have no problem admitting when I'm wrong, so if my assumption here is wrong, where am I going wrong?
Just the impression from the reply. It is hard to grasp tone from the written word, but that was my impression. Glad I was wrong on that.
Moving on to the whole problem at hand. Again, all of my data has been retrieved using a Meter, and not the display on the phone, but that is all on 2017 Model hubs, which the chipset did change in to meet the Apple CarPlay certification requirements. I would not think that Ford would have changed the Voltage output, but they might have. Seriously, the only way to solve this is for you to use a USB Power meter. For $15 you could have it tomorrow... Since you seem to be a Tech minded person, it will come in useful again.
When you get the Meter, check with your phone, and another phone.
Omar's explanation of "Smart" might also be a good way of explaining the difference.
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I love it when people come to a forum, ask for help, then get grumpy when we give them an answer they don't like, especially when their understanding of the Technology is over simplified, and they are using the charging icon on their phone as the gauge for the how much power is coming to their phone.
So, I have actually tested the ports with an actual USB Voltage meter, and my phone(iPhone 7) typically draws around 1.5-1.6 Amps on my drive home from work(Really the only time I have tested). Now my phone is typically between 40-75% depending on how many calls I have received that day on it.
How low your battery is will affect the draw that the phone will put on the charging Source. The closer to full your phone gets the Amp draw should decrease. I can draw right at 2.0 Amps if I hook 2 sources to the Meter at the same time off a single USB port on the Hub. If I put a second device on the other port, the port with my meter will go down, so the power is shared by both ports.
So a few things. Both of my current Fords have 2017 Model USB hubs. I never tested the 2016 Model hub in my Edge before I swapped it for the CarPlay capable hub. There might be a difference in the capability. Only way to be sure would be to put a Meter on it.
Order this, and test for yourself:
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So I attempted again. I downloaded the file from owner's website. This was my fourth attempt. I received the following error: "The installation has run out of space or does not work with this version."
Any thoughts?
Remind me again, you have Nav or No Nav?
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H&R test on a 2.01 mi road. The road has a total ascent of 650.46 ft and has a maximum elevation of 1,696.46 ft.
What wheels do you have and how is the ride in general around town situations?
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It was based on Ray Heath's comment that the information was readily available via a simple google search.
Sorry, didn't mean to incite a riot...-
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Confirm via Wifi. Just act like you are checking for an update, that does the same thing as the file.
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How about going over to www.blueovalfourms.com and asking there? It seems to be populated with some folks that actually work at Ford in Dearborn. Someone there might know.
There are plenty of us that know...just have to wait for us to actually get on here and read the question. Also, the info is out via fairly quick Google searches. Hell the question has now been answered here 2 times in the past 24 hours.
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Just for clarity it is a PTU, Not PTO. A PTO is something used to divert engine power to auxiliary devices, like pump, generators, buckets, on larger vehicles. F250's and above are typically capable of this, not sure if the newest 250's are or you have to go to a 450 to get the function.
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Attempted for the 4th time yesterday, still no luck. It states system updating for 40-45 minutes and then nothing happens. Went out and bought a 32gb Flash Drive, and formatted to exFAT, as per Ford website. Any suggestion as to what I am doing wrong? Here are the files the I downloaded from Ford website:
GB5T-14G386-AA.tar.gz
HB5T-14G386-TCB.tar.gz
HN1T-14G381-SA.tar.gz
HN1T-14G391-CC.tar.gz
HN1T-14G423-CA.tar.gz
Those are the files for the NAV version. You do have Navigation correct?
Those files have to be in the SyncMyRide folder on the flash drive, with 2 others files. They are all part of the Ford zip file.
Regardless of what Ford says, we have been doing this install, and have had better luck with smaller slower Flash drives. I use 2 Fat32 16GB Formatted USB 2.0 PNY drives. I have also used my 4GB Transcend FAT32 USB 2.0 drive with good success.
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Owner.Ford.Com - Under Sync3 Software Upgrade to 2.2 section - Use empty 32GB USB Disk Storage.
Not sure why they say that. We have proven it to work on MUCH smaller drives. Our actual real world experience has been USB 2.0, and Smaller works better.
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UPR Kit is installed. You can essentially buy the f150 kit and there is a few minor changes needed to make it 'fit' on the edge. The mounting for the cans is quite awkward. It'll be a pain to drain them, but since the smaller can is on the front side of the engine it'll be easy to guess when the larger one needs to be drained. LMS had the edge for 5 days to adapt the kit to it. It cost more than I had hoped. Ill post labelled pictures of the install soon. If you want to install it, it should be relatively simple considering you'll have an idea of what goes where.
Also I talked with both managers at my local dealer and they both said that the warranty isn't voided as long as any issues that come up aren't a direct result of the catch can system.
What was your cost out the door? Hardware and Labor breakdown if possible.
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Just for it the third time. It said installing failed.
Some things we learned early in this thread, that have been partially forgot now that the official update is out.
Sync3 seems to do better with the update when you use a USB 2.0 drive vs a USB 3.0 Drive. Also, it does not seem to prefer the large drives. The smallest drive that will still fit the files, the better.
Also, The Non-Navs take longer. They run the update in pieces. Since the Non-Navs have less space to play with on the unit, they cannot load the whole install at once, so it does it in steps.
Make sure your Flash drive is freshly formatted before you copy the files to it.
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Sirius Updates, are channel description and number updates...they are not feature or software. They actually happen regularly. Also Travel Link can be updated in the same manor. Either way, you get them...no matter what. They are Not done over Wifi.
PM if you want the most recent file from Ford, the "production/release" version of 2.2, and I can send you a file link.
I have not heard any person get it over Wifi. In the descriptions on the Owner site, it does not mention WiFi directly to the car as an option to receive this update, it only mentions the update via download to USB.
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No, that is the charge rate with screen off. My discharge is normally with screen on at around 150mA with 3 emails and some other push stuff. Also I read Lildiscos charge rate as 3xxx not 2xxx so their charge rate is fine but I'm wondering if aa is not letting their phone go in a low power STATE or if they have some kinda wack add app in the back ground. I agree a car ride may not charge the turbos battery (3900mah) all the way but should not discharge it.
Malcolm
OK, That makes a little more sense. Agree, something is not right. Would love to get an inline meter on his phone and see the real numbers, not what the phone is telling.
Navigation Update
in Audio, Backup, Navigation & SYNC
Posted
Get over it all of you...
Not Ford, Not Ford Affiliated...Most of the time the knowledge on here is FAR more useful than anything the dealer or even the Ford help line can provide. I routinely teach my dealer service department things they did not even know about the cars they service.
We are here to help. Want a Nav update to Sync, go pay the dealer. Don't want to pay then use Carplay or Android Auto, or wait for Waze to be supported. Seems pretty simple to me.
Moving on...